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Algae scrubbers? Pros & Cons

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104K views 59 replies 9 participants last post by  jeremyb  
#1 ·
Well, I was doing some searches and came across a tank using an algae scrubber. I've never heard of one so I was curious and busted out ole Google. Very interesting. So I was wondering, has anyone personally used one? Pros or cons on them? DIY or ordered? What differences did you notice (besides electricity cost increase lol) in using one? Pix if possible.:beer:
 
#2 ·
Used it. Loved it. Doing it again.

Using a scrubber was what got me more interested into the water change-less methods to reef keeping. My scrubber was DIY and only ran for a few months before a kalk overdose wiped the screen clean. Unfortunately, the hair algae which grows on a scrubber trapped the kalk paste in its fibers and the localized PH increase killed it all off. I was forced to go to chaeto until I had the time to get one running again. My scrubber was poorly designed but did its job well. My next one is going to be LED and will be built into an acrylic box like most of the ones that you can order online.

Pros
When set up properly, it will pull nitrate and phosphate to levels undetectable with hobbyist test kits.
You get a clean slate every single week and all of the inorganic nutrients pulled from the tank get thrown in the trashcan.
Detritus cannot accumulate inside of a scrubber like it can in a refugium.
Helps minimize nightly PH swings.
Introduces pods into the tank like you would not believe. (scrubber = happy mandarins)
Removes heavy metals like iron and copper from the water.
Can tip you off to something else being wrong in the tank by its growth rate.

Cons
The algae stinks.
Requires basic knowledge of scrubbers to "read" your algae every week and make adjustments.
The screen has to mature before it works the way it is supposed to.
You will be less popular. :agree:
 
#12 ·
Used it. Loved it. Doing it again.

Using a scrubber was what got me more interested into the water change-less methods to reef keeping. My scrubber was DIY and only ran for a few months before a kalk overdose wiped the screen clean. Unfortunately, the hair algae which grows on a scrubber trapped the kalk paste in its fibers and the localized PH increase killed it all off. I was forced to go to chaeto until I had the time to get one running again. My scrubber was poorly designed but did its job well. My next one is going to be LED and will be built into an acrylic box like most of the ones that you can order online.

Pros
When set up properly, it will pull nitrate and phosphate to levels undetectable with hobbyist test kits.

Keep in mind basic good husbandry does the same, getting below the test range of our kits is actually not hard to achieve, with or without algae. Also keep in mind the test kits only test inorganic phopshates, Algae releases Organic phosphates (ones we can't test for at home) Those are then converted by bacteria back into inorganic.
You get a clean slate every single week and all of the inorganic nutrients pulled from the tank get thrown in the trashcan.

Again, while you feel your "ALL" your not, this is a half truth. You are still increasing the overall load of Organic and inorganic in a system. Algae is not a sponge it gives and takes.

Detritus cannot accumulate inside of a scrubber like it can in a refugium.
Helps minimize nightly PH swings.

PH swings can be helped, but unless your have a accurate PH probe that can track PH all the time (like a controller) Its highly likely you can create a more sudden drop off in PH. Algae does not create "o2" when ever the lights are on, it will stop production even when light is present based on other factors. So you can go from making O2 to consuming O2 in the middle of the night and result in a sharper drop off of PH, if it is not setup and tracked right. Actually it can and does trap detritus much like your kalk paste became trapped in your scrubber detritus is doing the same thing. The scrubber mat will trap some particulate matter whether it be Kalk Paste of detritus

Introduces pods into the tank like you would not believe. (scrubber = happy mandarins)

I agree its can increase some pod populations, but also that is a sign of bioload/nutrient increase so keep that in mind

Removes heavy metals like iron and copper from the water.

This is very very minimal to the point its almost a non attribute to the addition of a scrubber

Can tip you off to something else being wrong in the tank by its growth rate.

Very true much like the health of corals, or the accumulation of more waste then normal its something that can warn you of an issue. It also can help mask a issue as well though. If your running a good routine and get ahead of the detritus in a system it can start to decay, which would be a false positive.

Cons
The algae stinks.
Requires basic knowledge of scrubbers to "read" your algae every week and make adjustments.
The screen has to mature before it works the way it is supposed to.
You will be less popular. :agree:
The less popular side of things, comes in from scrubbers are often labeled as miracles, when in reality there is much more going on then its often claimed. The biggest troubles come from in all be all claims like "Its gets all the nutrients for you!" and such like "You PH will be great all night" These are half truths, when you look into how algae works and remember its a living thing not a sponge you start to see the weaknesses and areas to avoid.

Now there is some room and uses for them, but you really need to look into how and what you are looking to achieve with them. If your going for nutrient export, they don't really remove a large amount, and due to their nature they promote more bacteria, and organics in a system. Which means you can end up with more suspended nutrients waiting to be released.

Now if your looking to buffer a heavy nutrient load, it can be setup to help, but its not the final solution. Also there is a perfect storm situation that ends up loading your rock with phosphates and in essence your tank goes algae invasion nuclear or crashes. While this not highly likely the threat is there, so knowing what to watch for and understanding algae is key.

I'm not a fan of a turf scrubber, simply as I have yet to see a system without a bunch of extra equipment really do well for a long time. The idea of harvesting to export is kind of the sales pitch but has its issues. Also I don't like the chem warfare aspect of algae in SPS systems, it weakens SPS coral health to varying degrees. This can mean little or it could open the door for STN RTN events or just general loss.

Their not the miracle they are often labelled as, which is the problem. They are not the sum of all evil though. The less popular is from it being disputed on its "advertisement claims"
 
#4 · (Edited)
How does it make me less popular? Lol. I'm liking the sounds of this. Would seeding algae on the screen help a bit? I really don't have algae blooms and that like in my tank. I've read it's good for phosphates and nitrates which I'm battling with. Considering I might have issues with the phosphates leeched in the rocks over years. I've got some Chaeto ATM in my tank (in a critter cage to keep the foxes from devouring it, but under the Kessils for growth). Tomorrow is 2 weeks since added so I want to test the water and see the results.
 
#7 ·
Well, you see... Algae scrubbers are kind of like an alternative lifestyle which the general public doesn't understand. Taboo almost. :lol:

Lol, the problem is, like any form of algae, nutrients have to break down before they can be removed which is frowned upon. Personally, I still siphon detritus weekly, run a BB tank with 100x flow and use a huge skimmer. I still pull at least a gallon of chaeto out of my sump a week because of how heavy my stocking is. Chaeto requires a lot more space than a scrubber because of how much lower the density is than with hair algae. If you dry it out, a hand full of hair algae weighs more than a gallon of chaeto. It's much more efficient at removing nutrients. Even further, it has optimal conditions over 100% of its area in a scrubber due to the design where chaeto blocks the flow and light that it needs from the lower layers, essentially competing against itself. You may see this as die-off which winds up negating a certain amount of the positive effects from its use.
 
#10 ·
Being fully enclosed will do nothing to the smell as it is only present when you clean it every week. to clean, you scrape away the algae with a credit card and then run some water over it. The screen must ver very roughed up because of this. You want a tight bond to the screen so that the roots don't come up. The advantage to the closed units is that they don't bleed light under your tank at night and they cane be mounted anywhere, even above the tank.
 
#8 ·
The search function of this site doesn't return much info that is easily identifiable as being of use for a DIY model of an ATS.

I know some people in the past swore by scrubbers. I wonder how it would work for me if I used the 40B for a scrubber tank before the sump.
 
#11 ·
I was about 80% serious when I said that you will be less popular. Sometimes when I'm in groups of reefer friends and talking about ATSs, I feel like they're looking at me like my mom still dresses me. For the best information on ATSs, find a site specific to them or talk to somebody like myself who is very familiar with them. If enough people prove to be successful using these methods, it will be more widely excepted.

I would recommend a turf scrubber to anybody who has a sand bed, a heavily stocked tank, or goes long periods of time between water changes. If your interests in turf scrubbers are sheerly to resolve a nutrient problem, you may find better results by utilizing the scrubber in conjunction with phosphate removal media. In most cases, a tank with a nutrient problem will have an imbalance of nutrients which will lead to nitrate limitation. This could be resolved by dosing nitrate when it is depleted but most people seem to be an easy about that subject.
 
#14 ·
Perhaps I will just do the settling tank and get back into the housekeeping routine that I was in when my tank was thriving. After a few months if I am still battling phosphates I may try the ATS in addition to housekeeping and skimming. Luckily the mowing season is almost over for me.
 
#15 ·
I got obessed with algae, as it is a rather complex organism in the grand scheme of things. Such as it never seems to out compete itself and aka eat it self out of house and home. Also why many issues have risen from tanks dedicated to algae export methods.

I think the more we understand and figure out about algae, the better we can tailor our uses, and improve. But sadly digging into how it works, tends to shed a bad light on some of its "greatest" advertised perks which causes uproar in the algae user world. Nothing is as simple as "toss in tank tada its better" This is what all the bottles in the LFS say on them, which we know are bad products. I find that Softy tank with some LPS can really gain some benefits. Just know how and why it works, so when you have it going you can see its cause and effects better and adjust as needed.

Here is a thread I tried to dig through the mess of what makes it tick if your curious.
http://www.thereeftank.com/forums/f77/algae-whats-under-the-hood-how-does-it-do-and-what-cant-it-do-198321.html
 
#17 ·
Don't worry it confused me researching for months. Lol. I spent 6months reading and re-reading and taking notes before I started that thread.

Toss up a post and a link to a part you need clarified, or a question. We can dig through it and get it simplified. Plus it lets us review parts for things we might of missed. I'm always interested in other perspectives they often help find new info.

The simplest questions can often trigger the greatest revilations. Plus my wife is tired of talking about algae at the dinner table lol.
 
#18 ·
I ran an algae scrubber for a couple months. Here is my build:http://www.thereeftank.com/forums/f6/contours-reef-175868-263.html?highlight=contours+reef

The scrubber did what it was supposed to do. It eliminated any nuisance algae I had from my display, including cyano. I took it down because I did not design it with enough flow going over the screen. It smelled pretty rank and my wife complained...

If I had more room for one, I'd do one again. For now I'm just using chaeto.

This is where I got my set up info from.
http://algaescrubber.net/forums/
 
#25 ·
:thumbup: This kind of says it all with anecdotal evidence. Earl's scrubber rid him of his nuisance algae. The smell, again goes along with the statement that it did not have enough flow. With more flow, it would not have smelled.
 
#19 ·
Okay...... Were do I begin?????

Lets start with a little history.

Back in the 80's and early 90's many of us ran ATS's. It took us years to figure out what they were really doing, and how they effected a system. In time, as our understanding grew, ATS's fell out of popular use, and for good reason. Then, not long ago, some guy, seeing an opportunity to make some money, came on forums like this making ridiculous claims about the magical abilities of ATS's. After a while he managed to get himself kicked off of most sites. He even got kicked off one site, twice. Despite the fact that his claims could not stand up to scientific scrutiny, many people fell for his sales pitches. Then those people jumped on the bandwagon and started telling their friends about this magical "new" technique. Now ATS's are once again relatively popular.

There was a time when most of the large public aquariums around the world used ATS's on their reef systems. Those days are, for the most part, gone. Kinda makes you wander why places like the Monico aquarium would abandon this technique on their reef tanks, if it worked the miracles claimed of it. As it turns out, it's really not such a mystery. The tanks crashed, the caretakers learned their lesson, and moved on to techniques that actually work.

To the best of my knowledge, the longest running ATS is on the reef display at the Smithsonian institute. They have/or had an ATS on the roof. Over the years, this tank has been plagued with failure. They stock it, kill everything off, then restock to do it all over again. You would think at some point they'd stop doing the same thing and expecting different results.

Here's a thread FutureDoc posted on one of the Smithsonian tank crashes.

http://www.thereeftank.com/forums/showthread.php?t=200199&highlight=Smithsonian+institute
 
#20 ·
The Smithsonian really should have known better but their "expert" was a ATS proponent. I think he is on the right track for using it for biofuel but the ecology does not support it in our tanks.

You would think at some point they'd stop doing the same thing and expecting different results.
^^^ Definition of insanity right?

The major downfall to ATS (and piggy-backing on Invic some) is that the act of growing algae is counter productive. Algae is not a end progressions for nutrients, rather, algae is a nutrient merchant. Anyway, algae is a great bio-indicator of nutrient enrichment, eutrophication. Thus the act of growing algae (increasing its biomass), tells us that the system has ample nutrients available. If algae's biomass is static, then the system is in equilibrium (to a point) and if the biomass is decreasing, then the nutrients are limited and the algae is re-adjusting its biomass accordingly. Actually the ATS "screen" or mat would be a wonderful test-kit as increasing growth would indicate an increased need to export nutrients. An ATS that takes 2 weeks to grow is in a system with more available nutrients than one that takes 4 weeks. Thus the ATS is more of a nutrient barometer if anything.

In the end, I like to make this analogy: ATS (or algae cultivation in general) is kinda like relying on regularly scheduled liposuction for keeping healthy. You can take the "fat" out to become "skinny" but if your diet is still horrible and you get lipo every few weeks, then there is something seriously wrong. In addition, you are only worrying about the excess "fat" in the skin and not addressing issues from the fat/bad diet in other places... such as plaque in the arteries, high sugars, etc... Surprise, sometimes exercise (with a siphon/WC) is needed.
 
#21 · (Edited)
Lets look at what "turf" algae is, and how it functions.

All "turf" works basically the same way. Be it the grass in your yard, or the turf algae in a polluted lagoon. When turf, or grass, first evolved, it exploded. It showed up on nearly every continent, virtually at the same time, and took over vast stretches of land. It was able to accomplish this, not because all the land was perfectly suited to its needs, but because of its ability to change the world around it, to suit its needs. Many of the places it took over were deserts where plant life didn't do well at all. They do this by turning baron, nutrient poor, environments into very fertile areas.

Here's a pic to show how this works.



It's obvious that at one point there was a clean, brand new, street running through this field. Plant life flourishes in fertile areas. blacktop is not a fertile area, and doesn't support plant life very well. The "turf" in the photo is changing all that. As the turf invades the blacktop, it changes that environment from very nutrient poor, to very nutrient rich. In a few years time, you won't be able to see the street at all. It will be completely covered in a layer of soil, rich in nutrients like phosphate, nitrogen, and heavy metals like iron. On top of this soil will be bright green turf, like you see on either side of the street.

Turf algae works the exact same way. It converts nutrient poor environments into nutrient rich environments so it can flourish. It does not reduce nutrient levels where it lives. This would be detrimental to these organisms, and they simply never would have evolved into what they are today.

Turf algae, like most plant life, can not obtain nutrients from solid matter. They rely on other organisms like worms, bugs, and microbes, to break down solid matter, and release the nutrients it contains into liquid form. At that point, the plant life can take up the liquid, and utilize the nutrients it contains.

Anyone that's ever had a hair algae outbreak has watched what I'm trying to explain, take place in front of their eyes. At first a little clump of turf algae pops up somewhere in the tank. Most people don't give this much thought. Then it pops up somewhere else. So how did it get to the new spot? Turf algae release spores and fragments that can drift off and start new colonies. These spores and fragments must land in a suitable area, or they simply will not survive. But, for the survival of the species, this isn't such a big deal. Remember, solid organic matter breaks down and releases liquid fertilizer. So, if a fragment of algae lands in a clean pore of a rock, it's likely to die and decompose. There's simply no fertilizer here for it to utilize. While it is decomposing, the original colony is still spitting out spores and fragments. More of this tiny organic material lands in the pore with the first one. In time, it slowly begins to build up. Eventually, there's enough material in the pore releasing fertilizer, to support one of these fragments, and a new colony is born. As the colony grows, the strands of algae act as a mechanical filter, trapping more solid particles that rot and fuel more growth. Individual strands die, fall down into the colony, and fuel more growth. So....... These organisms produce their own turf. Their own soil. Their own fertilizer. We try to combat this explosion by running GFO, increasing water changes, or improved filtration. These methods rarely have a significant impact on turf algae, because they aren't as dependent on dissolved nutrients in the open water as some other algae.

So...... What happens when we run an ATS? Well, at first it seems to be "working". Algae grows on the scrubber, but no where else. Phosphate levels in the open water seem to be low, and everything seems to be going great. When hobbyists see this in their own tanks, another ATS believer is born. What's not seen, is the tiny particles of organic material migrating through the system. These particles build up in areas we can't easily access. Eventually, there's enough for a new colony to take root and the downhill spiral has begun. This can clearly be seen in the photos FutureDoc posted in the thread I linked.

The bottom line is simple. ATS's do not work the way the supports say they do. They help to trap nutrients within our systems, not remove nutrients from our systems. Turf algae is a menace to our systems, regardless of where it's growing.

Peace
EC
 
#33 ·
Again, you are assuming that people are using a scrubber as a replacement for regular maintenance. There is no excuse not to syphon detritus regularly. True turf algae in your tank may happen the way it is described here but it simply isn't the case for a scrubber. With a scrubber, we provide 100% ideal conditions for algae to grow on. These conditions do not exist anywhere in the display tank. This is an area with very high flow and light intense enough to bleach any SPS coral, but it is in the wavelengths vital to photosynthesis for the algae. Put a turf scrubber in the middle of a real reef out in the Ocean... pump water up to it. I would wager money that it would grow algae.

Arguing that a scrubber somehow traps nutrients is nonsense. The screen is cleaned weekly and all of the organically bound nutrients are thrown in the trash. Lazy hobbyists trap nutrients.

Scrubbers work. They do exactly what they are supposed to do and nothing more. I will never be mad at my car or say that it is a bad car or doesn't work just because it won't walk my dog.
 
#27 ·
Let me dust off some notebooks and cover a few things to set a frame of reference. Wasn't going to go into detail discussion but its been awhile and I could use the refresher course for myself.

Organic Phosphates are converted to Inorganic phosphates at a rapid pace, this is done through pods but mostly through bacterial processing. Some pods are able to process inorganic phosphates as well as Organic, their waste is Inorganic. Now the rate of uptake (as in rate these materials can be pulled in and used) Algae's uptake rate of phosphates is slower then that of bacteria, where as pods are feeding directly from algae, as well as from the detritus created by bacteria and other living organisms in the tank.

Also consider that phosphates can be taken up by any organism it passes by, in the case of Calcium carbonate (our rocks in our tank) its literally a instant bound when it comes in contact with a opening site. This is the same material corals create, and is the same material their skeleton is made from. So you have more Phosphates in the system being pass back and forth the more likely the coral is going to get to many in the form of "food" (Which throws off the symbiotic balance the coral has with Zoox it contains) Also this increases the chance for the skeletons to bind to bind to many phosphates on their skeleton and becoming saturated. (Another bad situation for the coral)

Also to note Algae, releases Organic Phosphates, but also a few inorganic. But rather importantly algae is releasing Sucrose, Sugars ect. These are easy to access forms of Carbon. Much like carbon dosing, this triggers a faster rate of bacteria population growth. Coupled with the release of Organic phosphates food for the bacteria, its like throwing gas on a fire, but in this case its bacteria populations. While this seems okay, as populations climb and are in essence "nursing" off of Algae. They are more then likely neglecting their role in removing phosphates that end up binding to the Calcium Carbonate (Rocks, and Corals) simply since their is a buffet spread cranking out food and fuel for them aka algae. So if the rocks are not being purged of phosphates you slowly build up until they become hot spots for Algae to move into that spot, or worse.

So while the idea of more bacteria is better, its a slippery slope. The more you have the more "nutrients" they contain. Thus the more nutrients your system contains. So you have this building pile of nutrients trapped in organisms in your tank, most of which you cannot see. Now the life span of these organisms is rather short, so they die they break down and become detritus. So instead of managing a city of 2 million citizens you have 10 million thanks to algae. Now their lives are short so 10% die every day and new ones are born. So you from 200,000 dead hippy bacteria on your lawn day to day, to 1,000,000 Dead hippy bacteria on your lawn. Now consider If the food supply drops well they start to starve very fast so more and more start dying, well remember your weekly reducing the amount of algae in the system so the inorganic converter in this cycle has less conversion. Well now you have a food shortage, less organics and less carbon. More dead hippy bacteria start to die off.
 
#29 · (Edited)
I never try to label a scrubber as a miracle or a fix-all, just beneficial. I still believe that detritus removal is a necessary function and should be skipped as regular maintenance under no circumstances.
I know you try not to, but you tend to leave some pretty large open ended "Pros" and tend to omit any really important "Cons" to watch out for. You more interested in saying "you will be unpopular"

As I have said I am not totally against them, in fact I try to help folks improve ones they choose to build. What I don't like is when things are left off the pro and cons, and when some leaps of faith like "Algae will get all the Inorganic Phosphates" Those are blind leaps, simply since its not possible for them to get them all, let alone the science and limits of which it will actually take in and use them.

Its the wide claims that I try to correct, and since I am always having to fill the holes in the leaps of faith areas, I am the bad guy. Honestly I would much rather spend my time typing working on improvements and fine tuning setups, with and without algae. Instead I am stuck often trying to keep the known information from being distorted, which makes it harder to actually find better methods and setups.

I am sorry you feel I am always after ya, but honestly I don't care if you or anyone has an ATS, just that understand how they "really" work and not how we "perceive" them to work.
 
#32 ·
Lol can we just link all the threads this same discussion has been repeated over and over :p

Honestly it will save us a lot of typing.

Basically
Minion says it can do a lot of things, with other husbandry help

Others say science shows its not working quite how minion thinks.

Some other others have found some use for it and things work out most of the time.

Me I just want to know how it works and make sure folks understand as well.
 
#34 ·
Lol can we just link all the threads this same discussion has been repeated over and over :p

Honestly it will save us a lot of typing.

Basically
Minion says it can do a lot of things, with other husbandry help

Others say science shows its not working quite how minion thinks.

Some other others have found some use for it and things work out most of the time.

Me I just want to know how it works and make sure folks understand as well.
If it doesn't work the way I say that it does, it will not grow any algae at all. I argue that it is a valuable addition to a tank with a skimmer and an exist regiment for detritus removal and even water changes. I argue nothing else. It cannot create nutrients, it is impossible. It's a piece of plastic. Science applied incorrectly is not science, it's politics.
 
#36 ·
Toss this in here as, people probably will read this later and the conversions can get confusing. Probably more helpful for folks then our walls of text.

This is simplified but shows the basic phosphate cycle. It leaves out some of the critical problems we face such as phosphate binding on rocks, ect.

Image


Here's a link to a Thread that goes into detail on algae mechanics. It has a great deal of good info in it for understanding some of the weird stuff algae does and why. But don't worry it has a small bit of drama as well lmao.http://www.thereeftank.com/forums/f77/algae-whats-under-the-hood-how-does-it-do-and-what-cant-it-do-198321.html
 
#37 ·
I do not think anyone is claiming a scrubber to be an end-all magical solution. It is just another tool a hobbyist has at his/her disposal. I personally, wouldn't think about ditching my skimmer or stop doing water changes in place of any technique out there. I do not see anything wrong with a scrubber or a ball of chaeto as a supplement to a good cleaning routine.

It feels like I've been here before:D
 
#38 ·
I do not think anyone is claiming a scrubber to be an end-all magical solution. It is just another tool a hobbyist has at his/her disposal. I personally, wouldn't think about ditching my skimmer or stop doing water changes in place of any technique out there. I do not see anything wrong with a scrubber or a ball of chaeto as a supplement to a good cleaning routine.

It feels like I've been here before:D
Lol aye it's back again.

Side note for chaeto my neighbor and I are playing with chaeto right now. His mandarin breeding system has our "make chaeto grow straight" experiment/torture chamber on it. It's been fun to watch it try and escape lol
 
#40 ·
Ya that's better but I went with simple first lol.

Just noticed its missing two connections sorta. Organic detritus to animal and bacteria. They have a line for it basically just not labelled clearly. But really it's hard to lay out the map as it were. Inorganic phosphates are a hot commodity in reef tanks algae is just one contender fighting for them.
 
#41 ·
Ya that's better but I went with simple first lol.

Just noticed its missing two connections sorta. Organic detritus to animal and bacteria. They have a line for it basically just not labelled clearly. But really it's hard to lay out the map as it were. Inorganic phosphates are a hot commodity in reef tanks algae is just one contender fighting for them.
Yeah, they are missing...but it is good. I added some lines with that graph and my arrows/circles.
 
#43 ·
I couldn't figure out how to quote just part of the above post.

...........If you're doing your regular maintenance and you install a turf scrubber in addition to the skimming, syphoning and water changes, where is this magic nutrient problem going to come from which everybody is so afraid of? The only difference is a piece of plastic.. and that somehow makes your tank a nutrient sink ready to crash? Nope, the worst that could happen is you pull out some excess nutrients.........

How does just adding a scrubber in addition to all the other things that a reefkeeper should be doing negatively affect the tank? I am going back to reread some of the early posts about negative affects on pH and ??
 
#46 · (Edited)
Headed to bed but ill add more tomorrow.

They can help boost o2 levels at night when the ATS is on an opposite light cycle. This is the broad idea often given for using one. While this is true to a point, the problem is algae won't make o2 just because it has light. Nutrients limit it's desire or need to perform photosynthesis for 8+ hours your tank lights are off but the algae lights are on.

So it only helps for a portion of the night. Since our tanks even dirty ones are still more towards the low side of nutrients the algae only uses at most 4-6 hours of the lighting time. Often it's 4 or less.

So day time you ph stays high then the display lights go off and algae light comes on. The ph drops a bit and the algae picks up the slack and boosts it. But after a few hours even with the lights on it will usually stop photosynthesis. So the Ph drops. Now during non photosynthesis algae will begin its recycle phase which uses tiny amounts of o2. So you have 12 hours of display lights on ph is up then algae light is on display is off. The display lowers o2 but algae is making o2 so the ph stays up. So after four to six hours of algae lights on o2 production stops and algae goes into recycle mode. Now you have display consuming o2 and algae taking a tiny bit and making none. The ph drops as fast or faster then normal non ATS system. So you end up with the same sized swing in ph in a shorter time frame. The faster ph or anything changes in a reef tank is not an improvement.

Most pro algae proponents just say "no it's working all night" I checked it with a kit a couple times. But without live tracking via ph monitor you miss the up and down swings and their timing and duration. Basically your blind to the effects, and guessing.

You can use the algae to help night time ph but you have to tweak you algae lights on time to start where it splits the difference. Basically to not maintain the ph but timed to lessen its lowest point. This requires active ph monitoring as you can see to eliminate that possible negative and get it positive. Which can be done with a bit of tracking data and algae science. I've helped dial that in for a lot of tanks now.

It can be a positive with some science often it's a negitive as the details are omitted :( algae is not plug and play.

I'll post more tomorrow night guys and gals :)
 
#45 ·
Nope, I meant what I said. The water change tanks place once a week meaning that anything broken down as inorganic nutrients in that time frame stays. When a water change is finally done, only a portion is removed. In theory, unless you are doing 100% water changes, there will be a net increase in inorganic nutrients every water change. In reality, bacteria probably use the nutrients and the populations fluctuate throughout the week.
Mostly yes and some no. Skimmers help. Here is the trick, we are adding organic material (food) so it has to go from organic to inorganic first. See bacteria. Anyway, the goal is not to have a 100% in 100% out every week, there is going to be 90/110 or 110/90. It will always be imperfect based on the weekly time-frame... that is the reason why your 100% claim kinda works. However, we are not on "weekly" time-frames. It is months, years, (decades for Paul), so the trick is that you want the WC to create a plateau. So over time, the tank reaches a threshold where all additions and continuous build-up is capped via a water change.

Here is a simplified graph I used as an example for my 1%. I used a "mythical" organic number but the principle remains the same
Image


Even in the first few time-frames (days in the graph) it is a run-away nutrient increase (think that the uglies are also around this time)... and this is "ok" because over time, the WC become more effective so that even small amounts of dilution become remarkably effective .

We need to think about less short-term net increase/decreases because to remove that algae, there is a short term net decrease in organics... but there is a long-term net increase to get to that point. (I am going to C and V later for the last comment ;) )

The nutrients don't increase if nothing else is changed, they just change form. My net nutrient load is high. I have a lot of nutrients in m tank but they are organic. This translates to huge polyp extension! As stated earlier, it has been six months since my last real water change. Every day over the passed six months, I have fed two cubes of frozen mysis shrimp, one cube of freeze-dried brine soaked in garlic, selcon and vitamin M, a full tablespoon of live blackworms and a few pinches of spectrum pellets. This keeps all of my fish fat and happy.. all 16. At one point there were 23 fish in our 90 but we lost some and sold others...... I only have to wipe my glass once a week. The worst that has happened nurient-wise has been the bacterial fuzz which came about while my personal life pressed me to neglect my tank and not change the GFO or harvest algae for almost two months... all while my RODI was pumping out 10ppm water. A simple prune, new RODI filters and some new GFO and the fuzz is officially gone.
Yes they change form... but they change form back and forth. If it is high organic load, it is high. High is fine in a system designed around "high" nutrient level organisms... but are SPS high organic loving organisms? Show me a softie tank and I am a lot more comfortable with the approach... to a degree.

Still, the nutrient in its organic vs inorganic form is kinda a missed point. It will change and the reason why I vs O is important is because of our flawed test kits. Just because the bacteria and algae are trading as fast as the plot changes in "Layer Cake" (one of my fav movies, sorry), does not mean that there is not a underlying issue with eutrophication. You are doing a lot (equipment wise with GFO, skimmer, etc) to fight eutrophication but it is becoming a bigger and bigger "challenge" with less room for error so that small (and I would say it was more of a moderate hichup at least) can send a tank into a problematic state. With more and more biomass (algae, bacteria, etc) more and more issues. I would expect you to have less glass algae, big skimmer, BB, lots of GFO, etc but is cultivating algae anywhere else not a sign of increased nutrients regardless of location?

It lowers the nutrients when you throw it in the trash.
C and V

We need to think about less short-term net increase/decreases because to remove that algae, there is a short term net decrease in organics... but there is a long-term net increase to get to that point. :lol: That build up was not truly solved by the removal of algae because you would have a likewise increase in bacteria that are feeding to and feeding on algae. So it is not 100%... combined that with P added to the rocks, well you still have a long-term net increase. Because the algae keeps growing, that plateau-point becomes a lot tougher until "old tank" sets in.
 
#51 ·
If 99% is thrown away, the remaining 1% will die and wind up part of the next 99% to be removed. Do you need proof? Re-read Earl's post where he clearly stated that the addition of his scrubber killed off the algae in his display. It isn't a unique scenario. People who go this route are practically shunned for it without any good grounds. This is why success stories are normally found on scrubber-specific sites.
If this were true, then why have the skimmer, why have a reactor running? You have stated the algae somehow gobbles up every phosphate, and the other phosphate consumers/binders somehow are not able to get them, because the algae is in all places and at all times, and jumps in front of the phosphate before it ends up anywhere else. Again you have so much "faith" in the algae you cannot fathom it not being the #1 contender for everything.

There should be no proportional similarities. The available nutrients in the Ocean are what we aim to achieve in our tanks. For this experiment the ATS off a hobbyist tank should work completely fine to prove a point. The point isn't a net nutrient reduction of a complete ecosystem; the point is that the algae will grow under these ideal, controlled parameters, even at the low nutrient levels in a natural reef containing stoney corals. If it grows, it can be thrown in the trash and removed. For our tanks, that would mean a net reduction in nutrients all the way up to a standardized minimum. I don't know what that minimum is because I lack the equipment to test that low.I can guarantee that it is low enough to grow SPS. Just look at my tank.
So if I make the Ideal conditions to grow and ATS on a Healthy stony reef, it will grow. Sure but it will very soon become NOT a healthy reef. The conditions of a healthy stony reef are so devoid of nutrients the algae cannot survive. "better par lighting, more flow and gas exchange" Well at the top of a Stony reef crest the lighting is PERFECT for algae, very shallow maximum spectrum for algae chlorophyll A. Also the top of a reef has great flow and currents usually with great gas exchange.

So a Healthy reef, has Better lighting then your ATS, also it has better Gas exchange (not subject to city air pollutants ect) But its lacking one key element Nutrients. Which is what the Stony corals prefer to live in. So you create the same situation in a ATS, but you promote it in a closed system, to grow it you have to push the nutrient levels higher. Thus growth.

Ever wonder why it takes a few weeks to get a ATS screen to "establish" as you mention? It has to be "broken in" or "mature" What is happening it you created better conditions and a small bit grew, that small amount pushes the nutrient levels in the tank higher, so more can grow, then higher so even more grows. Then after you have built up the nutrients in the tank to allow for lots of growth, you have successfully nutrient loaded the system. To think that you are now " controlling the nutrients" is a fallacy unless you mean increasing the nutrient level in the system.

The increase in algae biomass is a increase in bacteria biomass and a increase in pod biomass. So you now have a far higher volume of nutrients in the system. While their all trading Phosphates Organic and Inorganic back and forth rapidly, You still have FAR more in the system. Why does this matter? They all seem to play well and the phosphates may be tucked under the rug while contained within organisms (algae, pods, bacteria) But this also means any slight mishap in the tank can bring all those nutrients back into the water column in a matter of an hour. Its like building a house of cards. The taller you make the more devastating the collapse can be, when the wind blows the wrong way one day. Much like the bacterial carpet you had take over the tank, you made a mistake and it upset that house of cards, the nutrients came home to roost. Luckily and thankfully you were able to get ahead of that problem and stem the tide of the sudden nutrient imbalance. You have a considerable nutrient load far higher with Algae in the tank. Its just raises the stakes on when something bad happens its going to be amplified.
 
#56 ·
If this were true, then why have the skimmer, why have a reactor running? You have stated the algae somehow gobbles up every phosphate, and the other phosphate consumers/binders somehow are not able to get them, because the algae is in all places and at all times, and jumps in front of the phosphate before it ends up anywhere else. Again you have so much "faith" in the algae you cannot fathom it not being the #1 contender for everything.

I never claimed that it did everything. Most of my nutrient export is achieved through detritus removal. My skimmer doesn't get much but what it does get is organic. My algae gets what I can't. My GFO keeps growth limitation leaning towards nitrate rather than phosphate. This is well designed an that's why it works. I use algae so that I don't have to do regular water changes. There is no other reason for me.

So if I make the Ideal conditions to grow and ATS on a Healthy stony reef, it will grow. Sure but it will very soon become NOT a healthy reef. The conditions of a healthy stony reef are so devoid of nutrients the algae cannot survive. "better par lighting, more flow and gas exchange" Well at the top of a Stony reef crest the lighting is PERFECT for algae, very shallow maximum spectrum for algae chlorophyll A. Also the top of a reef has great flow and currents usually with great gas exchange.

You do know that there are herbivores on the reefs right? What do you think that they eat? I don't have any tangs in my chaeto bin. I didn't have any in my scrubber either. Natural reefs also have much I also have higher imports than most of you per volume. What would happen if you didn't do a water change for six months?

So a Healthy reef, has Better lighting then your ATS, also it has better Gas exchange (not subject to city air pollutants ect) But its lacking one key element Nutrients. Which is what the Stony corals prefer to live in. So you create the same situation in a ATS, but you promote it in a closed system, to grow it you have to push the nutrient levels higher. Thus growth.

It is low on nutrients but not to the point where algae can't grow. ATS lighting is usually more intense than the sun in the required wavelengths. I do have high nutrients... But only the good kind.

Ever wonder why it takes a few weeks to get a ATS screen to "establish" as you mention? It has to be "broken in" or "mature" What is happening it you created better conditions and a small bit grew, that small amount pushes the nutrient levels in the tank higher, so more can grow, then higher so even more grows. Then after you have built up the nutrients in the tank to allow for lots of growth, you have successfully nutrient loaded the system. To think that you are now " controlling the nutrients" is a fallacy unless you mean increasing the nutrient level in the system.

Good try, but no. If you got a screen pre-seeded, it would grow immediately. It has to mature because spores have to find their way to the screen and take footing. Usually a less-than-ideal type of algae will grab first and green hair will eventually take over. At this point, it is mature. It has nothing to do with needing more nutrients.

The increase in algae biomass is a increase in bacteria biomass and a increase in pod biomass. So you now have a far higher volume of nutrients in the system. While their all trading Phosphates Organic and Inorganic back and forth rapidly, You still have FAR more in the system. Why does this matter? They all seem to play well and the phosphates may be tucked under the rug while contained within organisms (algae, pods, bacteria) But this also means any slight mishap in the tank can bring all those nutrients back into the water column in a matter of an hour. Its like building a house of cards. The taller you make the more devastating the collapse can be, when the wind blows the wrong way one day. Much like the bacterial carpet you had take over the tank, you made a mistake and it upset that house of cards, the nutrients came home to roost. Luckily and thankfully you were able to get ahead of that problem and stem the tide of the sudden nutrient imbalance. You have a considerable nutrient load far higher with Algae in the tank. Its just raises the stakes on when something bad happens its going to be amplified.

the ATS screen is cleaned weekly and only the footing is left to grow new algae. If you do a 100% water change and sell all of your fish, run GFO ,etc, etc and there is literally no nutrient import... Nothing will grow. It's sweeping the dirty under the rug every day, all week and then throwing away the whole rug and everything under it on the weekend to start fresh ... Rather than just letting the dirt accumulate on the floor all week.
 
#52 ·
This is one of those things which you don't have to match the exact phrase to know. You explanation of the function is only under the circumstances where the scrubber is replacing some other function of maintenance. If you feed the same, have the same fish, have the same skimmer, syphon the same detritus and change the same amount of water, a scrubber cannot "store" nutrients in your tank. A scrubber can only convert inorganic to organic and they will be removed within a week. Does some of the organic escape? Sure.. but those escape organic nutrients would have otherwise been inorganic and may become so again... then will end up organic again awaiting removal via the credit card scraping into the sink.
This is untrue, its function and conversion as well as its release of carbon, does boost Pod, and more importantly bacteria populations above the Pre ATS levels. Those organisms are feeding like pigs from the Algae's by products. The higher levels of both phosphate types are bound up in a ton of extra organisms. So YES a ATS does facilitate the banking of Nutrients within a system. See above as well. It is the direct cause for increased biomass in the tank, it does not have to "physically" contain them to say its creating higher levels.

Also keep in mind, a algae cell in a saturated environment of nutrients will contain and decent amount of nutrients, in a reef tank namely a stony coral tank, the maximum threshold for nutrients for the corals is FAR FAR lower and to survive. (Disrupts the corals symbiotic relationship with zoox) So in the Realm of corals surviving the algae cells within those systems contain far less nutrients. Simply as Algae cells will only contain nutrient levels proportional to the surrounding environment. So since we are operating far lower their contained nutrients are far lower. This is basic info from Algae farming research. (Keep in mind algae farms look to drive nutrients super high to get more from each harvest, we are actually working on the other end of the spectrum the low side and trying to drive them lower) So that feeling of your getting a ton of nutrients per harvest is FAR less then you think.

Btw a ton of research you labeled as "its ocean science not tank science" Its actually lab tested and most of the research comes from tanks and systems not the ocean. So please read before you make more assumptions.
 
#53 ·
When I set up my scrubber it was an attempt to remove GHA and cyano from the DT. I was not very interested in lowering my NO3 or PO4 readings. My corals were growing fine and fish were healthy. Just for fun I started testing nitrates before and after the scrubber. I was getting readings of 20-25 ppm pre-scrubber. Post-scrubber, I was seeing 5-10ppm.

There was a lot more algae growing on my screen than was ever growing in my DT. Could there have been more nutrients in the system because the mass of GHA on my screen was growing? I suppose. I'm thinking all of the extra nutrients were being stuck or passed around in the algae I was growing as opposed to the water column.
 
#54 ·
This is the best point. Algae to fight algae is the key difference. It is just moving it from one location to another... that is fine.

First "Dirty"s tank is a "dirty" tank. Mostly softies with a few stony corals. I remember Leathers, Zoas, Xenia, and many a Bubble/Frogspawn correct? This is very different from MINION's SPS dominated tank. Using an algae-fighting algae based method is tolerable in naturally-higher nutrient load "back-reef" system where the corals benefit from the extra organic load. If you are already running higher nutrients, then the impact of algae is not really going to increase the "nutrient plateau" but if you are trying for that low nutrient (SPS habitat) then the addition of algae is going to raise that nutrient plateau.

One of the best "examples" with ATS is the reports about skimmer function. Many, including MINION report increase skimmer activity after the ATS matures (correct?). However, we know that skimmers only capture a percentage of available organics. So if the skimmer is skimming more that means there is more material in the water. More material in the water flies in the face that algae is capturing and holding the "extra" organics between WC. This is one of the best "easy to observe" impacts of why ATS or algae export methods don't work. If there was less nutrients in the water, the skimmer would skim less. ;)

If you want to use algae to limit algae elsewhere... well that is fine for some systems, particularly those geared towards softies and other near-shore lagoon style tanks.
 
#58 ·
For those reading this thread and thinking about adding an ATS, here's some simple facts that can't be disputed.

All ATS's, old and new, function with the exact same biology and chemistry. There is nothing fundamentally different from one ATS to another. Make them larger or smaller, change the spectrum of light, change the intensity of light, change the flow rate, change the material the algae grows on, and you've made no fundamental changes to the way these devices function. To make any significant changes to the way these devices function, you must change the biology and chemistry involved. To date, that hasn't happened. And if it did, the device would be called something other than an ATS.

What do these devices accomplish? They crash tanks. Even when they are maintained by some of the most educated people in this field. It's repeatedly happened at the Smithsonian Institute. It's happened at the Monaco Aquarium, The Great Barrier Reef Aquarium, The Biosphere II, and many others.

Here's some pic's of the reef aquarium at the Biosphere II







Beautiful ain't they?

You know..... I was really starting to feel good about the future of this hobby, when I saw the popularity of DSB's falling apart. Then, ATS's reappeared to take its place. The bad thing is that we've already been through these dark ages, learned our lessons, and moved on. Now, it looks like we have to do it all over again.:doh: Myself, and many others like me, watched the death and destruction these devices cause. It was a rough pill to swallow, and it took us quite a bit of time, but we had to face the fact that ATS's are not what we BELIEVED them to be. Now a new generation will have to swallow that same pill some day. Unfortunately, it will be the pets we keep that pay the ultimate price.

Peace
EC
 
#59 ·
That looks like a textbook example of eutrophication

Defined as... the ecosystem response to the addition of artificial or natural substances, such as nitrates and phosphates, through fertilizers or sewage, to an aquatic system

Indicators are:
Increased biomass of phytoplankton
Toxic or inedible phytoplankton species
Increases in blooms of gelatinous zooplankton
Increased biomass of benthic and epiphytic algae
Changes in macrophyte species composition and biomass
Decreases in water transparency (increased turbidity)
Colour, smell, and water treatment problems

Can I add that ecological nutrient loops disagree with the ATS concept.

The only real concept behind ATS is that it can potentially out-compete algae elsewhere in the system for a while. However, nutrient control is even more effective against algae than algae is... and less side effects.