I see the question of how to go about changing your sand bed arise often as the importance is stressed so frequently on this site. I thought a good DIY would be helpful to show people that it really isn't that hard to do. From start to finish, it usually takes me around 10 minutes to changes 20% of my sand bed. I do this every two weeks. This time around I purchased some sand of a thicker grain because I was able to get it very cheap. Because I changed the grain size, I decided to do the whole bed in two parts. I replaced the front half of the sand bed today and will replace the rear half of it in two weeks.
Things you need:
Your new sand
A clean bucket to rinse your sand in
Five or more gallons of fresh R/O water
Ten or more gallons of mixed salt water
15+ inches of 1" PVC pipe
A wide-mouth plastic bottle or funnel
Super glue
A plastic cup
1.) Mix your salt water 24 hours before starting the change
2.) Build your sand pouring device by gluing your bottle or funnel to the end of your PVC pipe. If you use a bottle, cut out the bottom. Your device should be about to touch the bottom of the tank and still have 2-3" of PVC pipe out of the water so size accordingly.
3.) If you are using an old bucket, clean it with distilled white vinegar. Otherwise, pour your new dry sand into the bucket.
4.) Fill the bucket with R/O water leaving about 3-4" of space at the top and begin to pick up scoops of sand and drop them in a circular motion in the bucket to stir up as much dust as you can. Pour out only the water and repeat this process until you can see through the water somewhat even after stirring. You can only get it so clean because the act of stirring the sand creates more dust in the process through friction.
5.) Syphon out half of your sand bed using the silicone hose only for your gravel vacuum. There is no need to connect the head as this will just remove more water than is necessary. Don't worry about getting every single last bit of sand as, just get to the glass and get as much thickness as possible with the minimum amount of water lost.
6.) Place your pouring device in the tank with the PVC end on the bottom at the glass and use your plastic cup to scoop sand into the pouring device. The sand is wet and clumpy and will wind up everywhere if you allow it to drop to the bottom of your scooping cup instead of just scooping small amounts at a time without tipping the cup upright.
7.) Use your plastic cup to pour a little bit of tank water into the device to ease the clumping. Pick up the device about 1/2" and start moving it around the tank to pour new sand. You will easily get the hang of it.
8.) Enjoy!
Notice how little dust actually gets into the tank when done correctly. My water is almost crystal clear after a couple hours. My sand bed is completely cycled through and new every 2.5 months. The reason behind this is to remove detritus in the lower layers of the substrate and remove the sand with the bound phosphate. This practice along with regular water changes and responsible feeding habits will keep you from ever getting cyano or nuisance algae and will prevent the dreadful phosphate induced tank crashing. Calcium carbonate is a great phosphate binder giving similar results to that of lining the bottom of your tank with GFO.
Things you need:
Your new sand
A clean bucket to rinse your sand in
Five or more gallons of fresh R/O water
Ten or more gallons of mixed salt water
15+ inches of 1" PVC pipe
A wide-mouth plastic bottle or funnel
Super glue
A plastic cup
1.) Mix your salt water 24 hours before starting the change
2.) Build your sand pouring device by gluing your bottle or funnel to the end of your PVC pipe. If you use a bottle, cut out the bottom. Your device should be about to touch the bottom of the tank and still have 2-3" of PVC pipe out of the water so size accordingly.
3.) If you are using an old bucket, clean it with distilled white vinegar. Otherwise, pour your new dry sand into the bucket.
4.) Fill the bucket with R/O water leaving about 3-4" of space at the top and begin to pick up scoops of sand and drop them in a circular motion in the bucket to stir up as much dust as you can. Pour out only the water and repeat this process until you can see through the water somewhat even after stirring. You can only get it so clean because the act of stirring the sand creates more dust in the process through friction.
5.) Syphon out half of your sand bed using the silicone hose only for your gravel vacuum. There is no need to connect the head as this will just remove more water than is necessary. Don't worry about getting every single last bit of sand as, just get to the glass and get as much thickness as possible with the minimum amount of water lost.
6.) Place your pouring device in the tank with the PVC end on the bottom at the glass and use your plastic cup to scoop sand into the pouring device. The sand is wet and clumpy and will wind up everywhere if you allow it to drop to the bottom of your scooping cup instead of just scooping small amounts at a time without tipping the cup upright.
7.) Use your plastic cup to pour a little bit of tank water into the device to ease the clumping. Pick up the device about 1/2" and start moving it around the tank to pour new sand. You will easily get the hang of it.
8.) Enjoy!
Notice how little dust actually gets into the tank when done correctly. My water is almost crystal clear after a couple hours. My sand bed is completely cycled through and new every 2.5 months. The reason behind this is to remove detritus in the lower layers of the substrate and remove the sand with the bound phosphate. This practice along with regular water changes and responsible feeding habits will keep you from ever getting cyano or nuisance algae and will prevent the dreadful phosphate induced tank crashing. Calcium carbonate is a great phosphate binder giving similar results to that of lining the bottom of your tank with GFO.