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Earl's 75

117K views 2K replies 44 participants last post by  dirtycontour 
#1 · (Edited)
For those who do not know, I've had a 55 gallon reef for about 4 years now. Some coral and fish are starting to outgrow the narrow front-to-back dimension of the 55 and I'm in need of an upgrade. A local club member had a 75 gallon Deep Blue Aquarim for sale and I snatched it up. I'm going with a beananimal style overflow including the coast to coast overflow box. My goal is to have the 75 up and running within a month's time. Hope you enjoy!

The new tank


Random plumbing parts from Lowe's


I had to order the 1" gate valve for the siphon drain(Amazon). I'm not sure if I'll use it or buy a true union ball valve? I'm a little nervous about the thread leaking, any suggestions?


Watt's speedfit(Lowes) for the open channel standpipe


Tapped the cap


Teflon tape on the thread, and it fits like a glove


Locline(PremiumAquatics) for the return


Hole saw from ebay, about $13


Success!


So far so good:D
 
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#2 ·
I'll tag a long and be the first to post. :D
 
#10 ·
Hey nice upgrade Earl!!! Your choice in overflows IMO is unsurpassed. :beer:



I had to order the 1" gate valve for the siphon drain(Amazon). I'm not sure if I'll use it or buy a true union ball valve? I'm a little nervous about the thread leaking, any suggestions?
At Lowes the pink Heavy Duty teflon tape. By all means do use the gate
it is superior to a ball valve for micro adjustments. The tape can be tricky to start, wants to spin, but once it is wrapping snug without slipping
a good 8 wraps should be fine and be leak free as long as you care for it to be.
 
#11 ·
I usually get the tape started clockwise, and hold the spool between my knees
with the tape coming off the bottom side then either roll the fitting, or take the spool
and start wrapping clockwise as the threads go, then pull tightly to sevre the tape and snug in place.
 
#16 ·
I get the Teflon started and turn it in the direction that it gets threaded in and it works well I used to have it always fall off then my father who is a plumber said to do it the way the thread goes which makes sense. Use clear primer for all your slips if you can find it the purple is only so home inspectors know you used it on your house. The puple makes a huge mess I come from a family of plumbers and see what that stuff does if you tip the can over. If you go to a actual good plumbing store they will have so much more than lowes or a Home Depot and people that actually know what there doing. I go to fw Webb and get stuff on my brothers account way cheaper
 
#20 ·
Use the primer it will take it off no problem since you have clear you will never see it. I painted my pipes black so the would be less noticeable. The tricks you learn from having professionals in your family. It will also disolve the stickers away also if you have them on your fittings
 
#22 ·
My tank is in my room in the basement so painting the pipes black almost makes them not even noticeable. I would use as much slip as possible Its better than threaded by far alot less likely to leak if you use the primer and enough glue. Use glue on the fitting and the pipe and you will never have a problem. Once you put it together push it in and twist with a upward force into the fitting to make sure you get it all the way into the fitting. Put it all together without glue first mark a little line across the fitting onto the pipe after you have it all level so that you don't have to check to make sure its level after you glue it
 
#26 ·
I would let the back that you painted set and try running your mag float over it a few times. Mine seems to be coming off a little bit and I used I think krylon with the primer in it and see a few spots that I can see through. If you want to re paint the trim around the tank see if you can find some po primer its what they use to paint plastic parts for cars. My other brother paints cars its what he gave me am worked great. It opens the pores in the plastic to make it bind better
 
#28 ·
I used Krylon Fusion on the back glass. I probably won't mag float the back at all to avoid any chipping, etc. No need to paint the trim, I'll be building a canopy soon, and the trim will be hidden.
I got ya, nothing wrong with that.
Dont know if it will help ya but when I glue I always blow some air on my fittings, it provides a slight instant cure so I don't get runs, but some places I cant get my big oh water head in..
Lol, I got the clear primer and cement. I should be dry fitting the plumbing tomorrow:agree:
 
#36 ·
The theory is to surface skim as much as possible. The length of the weir and the fact there is no teeth will provide a very thin sheet of water spilling into the box.

I believe the link in my first post goes into more detail, but that is the gist of it.
 
#37 ·
Thanks to all who are following!

I got most of the three drains dry fit today:agree:





I wanted to put the gate valve under the support but that is going to complicate the drain entering the sump. I want to keep the drain runs with one 45 entering the sump. I'm going to have to put the gate above the support...


I also got the stand painted, time to start thinking more about my canopy. I drew up a pretty nice design(I think so anyway).
 
#39 ·
Unfortunately, it is right in the middle of the living room...She is cool with it as long as it doesn't take forever. I'm running to the glass shop now to give them dimensions for the overflow box. I'll post up my idea for the canopy later tonight.
 
#42 ·
Just got back from the glass shop. That is some quick service, they had what I needed and cut it on the spot. I'm a bit unsure on how I want to go about this. Should I make the "L" for the box first or silicone it in the tank piece by piece?
 
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