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Tank Maintenance Help

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1.1K views 24 replies 8 participants last post by  joschend0325  
#1 ·
I am having a few issues with my 90g mixed reef. I started this tank in January 2012 when I upgraded from a 55. I used all the old sand, which has since been replaced, and rock. A month ago the tank was thriving. I was getting great coral growth, coloration, polyp extension, and overall coral health. Since then I have been having trouble with a dark bacteria/algae growing strictly on the sand, 95% sure its cyano. I have moved some powerheads in the last week or so and slowed its progression.

I have been doing biweekly 5 gallon water changes as well. During these WCs, as with all my WCs, I syphon the sandbed and blow off the rocks. The problem with the cyano still continues. I am also having a hard time keeping my alkalinity at an acceptable range. It has been staying at 3 meq/l, usually a little lower. I have been addding a seachem alkalinity booster that raises alk without affecting pH, it helps somewhat but not consistently. My pH is a constant 8-8.2, temp 78-82, halides 6 hours, leds 12 hours, lunars 12 hours.

I have tested the water and had my LFS test the water. Phosphates are below 0.05, thats as low as my test kit checks, LFS said 0. My nitrates/trites were also off the charts on the low end on my test kit and zero on his. The only problem they encountered with my water was of course alkalinity.

The visible problems with the tank include the cyano, small tufts of hair algae, green algae that flat to the glass, and a lack of extension or polyp "opening with fullness" of my zoas. The polythoa seem to be doing ok along with sps and lps.

Question: Could this be from TDS in the water? I am thinking my filters should be changed on my RO unit. However, with phosphates and other reading at zero I was unsure. Could both the tests be off? I understand that there is something nutrient wise going on in my tank just really frustrated not being able to find out what.

Also:recently added a phosban reactor that runs at night, 12 hrs or so. However, I have recently been leaving it off due to pumps noise and phosphate test readings. In line with this reactor is a twist coralife uv sterlizer 3X.

I need suggestions

Thanks,
 
#2 · (Edited)
Are the Lunars for 12 hrs. a new addition to the tank? I ask because I had issues with algae and diatoms for a bit and it turned out that running the "moon" lights all night was giving just enough dim light to cause the problem. I stopped running the moon lights all night and with in a day or 2 my algae problem was gone.

Just a thought
 
#3 ·
My tank was also started around the same time, I moved from a 55g to a 40g breeder early this year.

the last month I have ran into some of the same problems, but mostly little tufts of hair algae and coral browning...

from this a couple months ago:
Image


to this now...
http://www.thereeftank.com/gallery/showimage.php?i=30936&c=member&imageuser=36612
Image


you can see the colors are browning a bit recently along with the little algae.

I just got a new RO/DI system with new filters, also got some new salt mix, and a new MH bulb. so we will see if anything helps mine, Geoff also said it could be a nutrient flux from the bacteria in the rocks.
 
#4 ·
How old are your ro filters. I just replaced mine after about 8 months, thinking they were on the way out. I to started to develop some diatom issues and the filters were the last thing on my checklist of stuff to do. I was extremely surprised to see how brown the sediment and first stage carbon block was. The second stage carbon wasn't as bad but I replaced all of them. I haven't done a WC with the new filters yet, only have used them so far for top up water. I don't know if its just me but the tank already looks better and the skimmer seems to be running more efficient. The manufacturer recommends replacing the filters every 6-12 months, so I figured 8 would be a good compromise. But now that I've seen their condition I'll be replacing them in 6. The membrane should be every two years but I think i m gonna shoot for 18 months instead. I guees it depends on your own water quality feeding your system but any kind of algae outbreak is usually if not always due to excessive nutrient build up. If your not over feeding and doing regular WC then looking into your rodi would be a good place to start.
 
#5 ·
The filters are about 4-6 months old but it is not a great RO system. It is from lowes and the filters are extremely slim. With Christmas around the corner I plan to get the 75 gpd Bulk Reef supply 4 stage RO/DI plus system. However, until then I will be using Distilled water to see if it solves the issue,and I understand that some labeled "distilled water" is not raelly 0 TDS.

I am kind of at my wits end since I cant find anything else "wrong." I will try to cut back on the lunar lights, however, they are not new to the system. I have always run them and always run them all night.

Thanks for the suggestions so far.
 
#7 ·
Ya I have to agree with this also. That's exactly what I do as well. 10g weekly changes. As for your ro filters, I hesitated for a couple of weeks thinking about the cost of replacing them. Turns out it only cost me 25 bucks for all 3. I can't say 100% it has made a difference yet, but for that price it is a good investment. You'll be spending that much on bottled water by Christmas. Make the change.
 
#10 ·
That's not a 50% water change a month. Doing 5 gal a couple times a week is great, for maintaining levels. If you want to lower your nutrient levels you need to do larger changes more often. Small changes don't take out a lot of nutrients. You would get more out if you do one 10gal change a week then you would if you do a 5 gal twice a week. Are you siphoning the gunk out?
 
#11 ·
Does the UV sterilizer feed a carbon filter or a skimmer? Otherwise you are killing bacteria and pumping the dead cells into the tank. Try putting the output into the skimmer, or running the sterilizer and then the carbon reactor. Hopefully this helps, I am having the same issues a little bit. What food do you feed? Do you have photos, that always makes diagnosing a problem easier.
 
#12 ·
I think what almost always fails to be mentioned is that it could be a combination of all the above. That'swhy iI have my own little check list (everyone's would be slightly different). And I forgot to mention my lights. A few months ago I switched to a combination of t5 and led. It used to be 6 ho t5, but I eliminated 4 of them for the LEDs. Well after noticing some nuisance algae one of the first things I thought of was check to see how old the bulbs are. I was so happy with my new LEDs I forgot about spectrum shift. Sure enough (just like my ro filters) the bulbs are going on 11 months. I've switched out one and the other will be done in 2 weeks. I think we've covered the filters , and the water change regime, how about your MH. I'm just as guilty of jumping in the band wagon. And assuming it must be this or that, when in reality its more than likely a bit of everything.
 
#13 ·
Yes I do syphon out the "gunk". I will try to do a 10g change tonight and see how that goes. Thanks

Yes the UV sterilizer is pumbed to the skimmer. I feed cyclops, PE mysis, and flakes. Every other day one of the three.

I just thought about this last night and rep[laced the two halide bulbs. Thanks
 
#15 ·
What test kit are you testing with? With a lot of cyano you do have a nutrient problem. How old are the lights? With your ro system do you have a ppm meter? Do you have color changing di resin? What skimmer do you have? What, how
Often and how much do you feed. What does you bioload look like?
 
#16 ·
The test kit is a Reef Master kit from Instant Ocean. The lights were 10 month old Ushio Bulbs. No ppm metere on the RO unit or colored resin bags. I have an Octopus skimmer HOB 100. I feed cyclops, PE mysis, and flakes. I feed every other day either half a cube of the cyclops and mysis or just flakes. Fish: 2 chromis, 1 yellow pseudo, melanarus wrasse, 2 percs, nudibranch, 2 engineer gobies.
 
#19 ·
The reason your nitrate it at 0 is because the algae is consuming it before it will show. It's always good to have a tds meter. I have high co2 well water and it eats up di resin so quickly that I will go from 0 to 3 tds within 3 months. 3 tds is as high as I will go because algae starts going crazy. You have one of the better hang on skimmers but I would look into getting a in sump (if you have a sump). Like someone else said its more than likely a combination.
 
#21 ·
Not really. I always siphon sand and the sand I replaced had been given the same treatment. I replaced it a while ago. Best way to eliminate nitrate is WC correct? With the readjustment of the powerheads and increased flow the cyano has fallen back and given way to a diatom bloom. HAHA. Could the tank just be going through another cycle? My 55 periodically went through them.

No sump at the moment. This, however, is in the process of being corrected. I have a 29 gallon that is being converted into a sump for this system. On order is an Octopus NWB-150 insump skimmer.

Bioload is below capacity correct?

I am at a loss. I have not loss any corals yet just feel that it is going to happen if the zoas dont get out in the open like they should be. My growth rates have also declined on most all corals.
 
#22 ·
The nwb 150 is really a great skimmer and is what I have. It shouldn't be a cycle unless you have done something to cause a cycle recently. With a tank that age it's not uncommon for them to go through a cyano bloom. But you can still do things to help it go away. First thing I would do it change those ro filters and reduce lighting; your corals will be fine. Also flakes are probably the worst food choice you can choose and when you feed frozen make sure you rinse well with ro water. Your husbandry habits seem good just keep them up and it will begone.
 
#23 ·
Thanks. I rarely feed the flake. Just thought the variety of food would be good for fish. I am in the process of changeing the RO filters. By the new year I should heave a new RO/DI system in place. Thanks for the help. I will turn the light times down as well. Should I just turn the 2 175 watt halides down or the 3 ecoxotic panorama pros as well?