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My reef tanks my wallet.
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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Making a big jump from a 20L to 300dd with a 100g custom sump. It's going to be a peninsula with all but 18" of the nonsaphire backside viewable. It will be a barebottom mixed reef.

I've ordered the tank and stand from Marineland. Picking up in a week or so. *See post #9 below. Stand is SHORT! (Cancelled the order for stand)

Here is my current equipment list, which I intend to order in the next few days. I'd love any comments.

Lighting: 6 - Kessil a360w
Controller: Apex Neptune Gold
Flow: 2-mp60 (wall side of penninsula) 2-mp40s on opposite side.
skimmer: SRO5000ext
ATO: Spectrapure UPLC-II
heaters: 3 - 300w jagers
return - mag 18 (will be about 1200gph with the head)
reactor - Undecided
dosing - None at this time

My intent is to make it as low maintenance as possible. I'm running PVC under the floor and up into the cabinet. One line will be saltwater with a ball valve. The other line will be plumbed to the overflow with a ball valve and then connected to wastewater line under house. The ato will be plumbed to the garage where the salt and fresh holding tanks will live.
These holding tanks will be about 4' higher than the sump, so gravity will work its magic.

Water change made easy. Open ball valve on overflow and empty 44g directly to sewer line via either connected siphon or straight from overflow. Close valve. Open saltwater valve and dump 44g saltwater to sump. Close valve.

The ato will be connected to a 20-30g reservoir, so if @#%$ happens it can fully dump to sump and not be too damaging.

I'm not bothering with reactors or dosing at the moment. It won't be too heavily stocked with sps for a bit and I have a habit of 10% weekly waterchanges and plan to keep that up but probably do 5% or so.

I've played with the a360w at a lfs, and its amazing. The intensity and spectrum control are incredible.

I know I could use 4-mp40s but I'd rather run an mp60 at 50% than a mp40 at 100%.

I'm also thinking of putting one of the mp40s on the bottom, yes bottom, of the tank right in the middle shooting up. Has anyone ever seen this before? Reasons why its a bad idea? It would give some really great vertical flow.

Bottom cleaning
Will this work? plumb a second valve on the overflow in sump area with a flexible hose connected. when cleaning, put the hose just under the top of the tank water and open the valve. The force of the water from the overflow should start a siphon with the hose. Can then vacuum up the bottom with a sock attached. when done, lift hose to stop siphon and close valve. Then remove and clean sock.

I would appreciate any comments on the equipment! Especially the skimmer.

Indexing this list:
Water Change Station & Custom Sump
Custom Stand
Kessil's, MP60s and Apex
Tank and Flooring Reinforcement
SRO 5000ext w/ auto cleaning neck
Under house flooring reinforcement

Anyway, that's enough for now. I'll be updating as the toys arrive!
 

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I'm also in the middle of a 300dd build...I went with the sro 6000 ext because I will be mainly sps and wanted a monster skimmer to assist in keeping the system low nutrient...my opinion is that if you won't have much sps the 5000 will probably work fine but that also depends on fish load as well

The only comment I can make right now as I just woke up and my brain isn't 100% functional yet haha is that when doing a "water change" the point is not about changing water it's about siphoning detrius off the bottom...so with you're ball valve turning water change setup you will be really doing nothing beneficial to the tank besides maybe recouping some calcium that was used up by corals....trust me I spent so much time and money building a similar setup on my old 210 and found out quickly that just changing water really doesn't do anything

I'll skim through your post again in a little bit when the coffee has done its job lol

Stewie
 

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My reef tanks my wallet.
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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
We love build threads...I'm subscribing.

What do you have for an RO/DI unit?
I'm not sure yet. Maybe the maxcap auto 180. Probably overkill buy I like making water fast. If not that, a maxcap 90.

What do you recommend? I currently use a 60gpd 4-stage
 

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My reef tanks my wallet.
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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
whats the price on the marineland 300DD? I'm trying to work up a budget for a tank upgrade that will happen sometime in the next year... tagging along for your build!
It's about 1900
 

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My reef tanks my wallet.
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925 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
I'm also in the middle of a 300dd build...I went with the sro 6000 ext because I will be mainly sps and wanted a monster skimmer to assist in keeping the system low nutrient...my opinion is that if you won't have much sps the 5000 will probably work fine but that also depends on fish load as well

The only comment I can make right now as I just woke up and my brain isn't 100% functional yet haha is that when doing a "water change" the point is not about changing water it's about siphoning detrius off the bottom...so with you're ball valve turning water change setup you will be really doing nothing beneficial to the tank besides maybe recouping some calcium that was used up by corals....trust me I spent so much time and money building a similar setup on my old 210 and found out quickly that just changing water really doesn't do anything

I'll skim through your post again in a little bit when the coffee has done its job lol

Stewie
Thanks for the tips.

Eventually I'll have lots of SPS so I'm planning o for that now. I'll check out the 6000 ext. I think I'll have space under my stand.

As for WC. I'm still planning my vacuum system. I'll probably have it dump to the waste water line too and combine with WC. I've found that consistent WC in my 20L, despite vacuuming detritus, helps reduce my suspended organics and keeps my levels steady since I don't dose. I had always done the WC with vacuuming before and just thought up this idea with the build. Thanks for the info on your experience!
 

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My reef tanks my wallet.
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Update/hiccup #1

I ordered the tank and matching stand from Marineland. I just learned the stand is only 29" in height! Promptly cancelled the stand as this is way too low. Would barely fit a skimmer in there. The top of the tank would only be 56" so you'd be looking down at the whole thing. Terrible IMO.

Custom stand in the works now. Might be building myself... Height will be about 40"

So for anyone considering this stand/canopy combo from Marineland, think again if you want to stare down at the top of the tank. Apparently Marineland made it this size so it could fit through a standard 30" door opening as the width of the stand is 36".
 

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Underwater Demolitions
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Dang, Todd.. 20 to 300? Pretty darn cool.

My stand is 36" high because I am short. I really like it for ease of maintenance but I wish I'd gone 40. Good thing to go custom! Always jealous of the build threads where peeps actually build. I open boxes and stare in bewilderment.
 

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My reef tanks my wallet.
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Dang, Todd.. 20 to 300? Pretty darn cool.

My stand is 36" high because I am short. I really like it for ease of maintenance but I wish I'd gone 40. Good thing to go custom! Always jealous of the build threads where peeps actually build. I open boxes and stare in bewilderment.
Yup! I'd been planning this for a couple years but was thinking I would do a 40b or 120 as a stepping stone. After reading hundreds of build threads and everyone always going bigger, I decided to save the $$ on the intermediate build and just go as big as I could fit in the space.

My current stand is 36" too. Its nice to be able to reach in without standing on anything.
 

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Underwater Demolitions
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One bit of advice I'd give that I learned the hard way. Plumbing a tank is hard! On my new 105 I thought, hey, two drains, to returns. A bit of pipe and glue and voila. Not so much. Seems that silent plumbing is an art. And it is harder to re-do than do.
 

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My reef tanks my wallet.
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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
One bit of advice I'd give that I learned the hard way. Plumbing a tank is hard! On my new 105 I thought, hey, two drains, to returns. A bit of pipe and glue and voila. Not so much. Seems that silent plumbing is an art. And it is harder to re-do than do.
I hear ya! And I've got quite the plumbing project. I'm going to have 3 lines running from the stand, under the house and to the garage for the ATO, new saltwater and waterchange line. Luckily, a friend who does a lot of industrial plumbing is giving me a hand.:thumbup:
 

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My reef tanks my wallet.
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
All equipment listed in first post ordered. Should arrive next week. Luckily I was able to cancel the stand. It must have been meant to be. A local reefer had a custom stand built for his 300dd but is now moving. He's putting the new tank in-wall and doesn't need the stand and matching canopy. I took it off his hands for a great deal.





 

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Do you have double doors in your house? If not, you may have a problem getting that stand inside.
 

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I would rethink your decision to skip the reactor. A PO4 problem in a 20 gallon is easy to fix. A PO4 problem in a 300 is a nightmare. A reactor with a little GFO is a huge asset in helping to keep that from happening.

One of the problems with the DD tanks, is that the overflows are to tall. The water level in the tank rises, and the center braces stick down into the water. Making them visible from the front. In the 300, with the two braces, this creates a center section that doesn't get surface skimmed, and a film can easily build up on the surface of the water.

I'm running two mag 9.5's. So roughly the same amount of water you'll be moving. I cut every other tooth out of the overflow boxes, trying to lower the water level in the tank, and my center brace still sticks down into the water.
 

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My reef tanks my wallet.
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Do you have double doors in your house? If not, you may have a problem getting that stand inside.
I don't today, but I will soon. Has been planning it but wasn't planning double doors this weekend. My hand was forced. :)
 

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SWEET!!!! You get an upgrade to the house and the tank.:thumbup:
 

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Following along as well you tank size and equipment list matches my planed system once I buy a house almost to the T, but truth be told you had me at 4 - Kessil a360w. Then made me loose it when I read the words Apex, mp60/mp40, Spectrapure, SRO6000ext.

Only thing I would change is I would go with a D/C pump @ 12000lph or an AC pump with more then 18' of head pressure. I just love me some D/C pumps.
 

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Shark...fish are friends
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Do you have double doors in your house? If not, you may have a problem getting that stand inside.
Reminds me of when my wife moved in to the house that we rent... I could get her couch in the back door, but the interior opening going from the kitchen to the dining room in order to get the couch to the living room / bedroom for storage was too small... had to rip the old wood frame out and drywall it so I wouldn't have to have a couch in the middle of our already small kitchen =)

I would rethink your decision to skip the reactor. A PO4 problem in a 20 gallon is easy to fix. A PO4 problem in a 300 is a nightmare. A reactor with a little GFO is a huge asset in helping to keep that from happening.

One of the problems with the DD tanks, is that the overflows are to tall. The water level in the tank rises, and the center braces stick down into the water. Making them visible from the front. In the 300, with the two braces, this creates a center section that doesn't get surface skimmed, and a film can easily build up on the surface of the water.

I'm running two mag 9.5's. So roughly the same amount of water you'll be moving. I cut every other tooth out of the overflow boxes, trying to lower the water level in the tank, and my center brace still sticks down into the water.
EC do you have a tank thread? I'm in the planning stages of a big tank as well once I buy a house so looking for other build threads to figure out what all I need to buy... hadn't considered reactors so will add that to my list...
 
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