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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I am putting together my first reef tank. I have a 65 gallon that will be mounted in a wall + 20 gallon sump and I am confronted by two great deals on lights which I have to decide on very quickly (the person selling the Formosa needs to know by tomorrow otherwise selling to a friend of his). Here are my two choices:
1. JBJ Formosa Deluxe (96w x 4)...total 384w
2. JBJ DX-RDX Retrofit (65w x 4)...total 260w.

I don't know what types of corals/invertebrates I will be putting in this tank yet but I want to leave all my options open. I am concerned that the 384w light will bleach out and not be healthy for some of the corals, and I am concerned that the 260w might not be enough light for others. I thought that maybe one option at the beginning would be to get the 384w and remove one of the bulbs, leaving 288w, giving me the option of putting it back in later. However, I'm not too familiar with these types of fixtures and I don't know if the reflector, etc. is calibrated to work with all four and taking out one will leave uneven light. All four bulbs work on different cords/switches.

So anyway, any advice at all would be most appreciated! Thanks!
-Lori :)
 

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I guess my first question is, how much are you looking to spend on either of these set ups? You may be able to retro a MH set up for similar cost, which will allow you more options in the long run and save you some $ by not forcing you to upgrade in the future should you decide to go with more light demanding organisms.
I'm speaking from experience on this one.

If you're set on going the straight PC route, I'd go with the 384wts.
 

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Might as well go for number 1...that will be plenty of light for most softies, and a few LPS corals like frogspawn, etc. If you don't have an interest in keeping SPS corals right now, then you really don't have to have metal halide.

HTH-
Brooke
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I really appreciate all the advice guys. :) I suppose if I want to do SPS later on, then I would just need to add a small supplemental metal halide light at that time. If I go with #1, and decide to do the SPS thing later, what wattage would you recommend I go with for a supplemental metal halide (in addition to the existing #1 option)?
-Lori :)
 

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I have 460 watts of lighting over my 40BR. I don't think it is much the wattage, but the PAR (what ever that is), spectrum, etc. I have mixed tank, (SPS, LPS, softies, clam, polyps, mushrooms, etc.). Everything is thriving, growing and doing extremely well. Much better than when I had only PC and NO lighting on it. When you think about the strength of the sun on the natural reefs, I think sometimes that our aquarium lighting is barely cutting it.

Jodi
 

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I have 4 110w VHOs for my 75. The corals that don't like as much light (mushrooms mostly) are toward the bottom or partially hidden by caves in the rock. Everybody seem to be happy. I have leathers, xenia, frogspawn, bubble, and brain corals. Unless you want an all mushroom tank, I think the brighter lights shouldn't be a problem.

In general, I acclimate corals toward the bottom and gradually move them higher so they slowly get accustomed to the light. If they don't like where they are, they will let you know. It usually takes some trial and error to determine a position in the tank (light + flow) that makes an individual coral happy.
 

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Ditto on the other replies to your question on lights,,,myself, i have 800W's of MH's and 220W of actinic PC's over my 75,,,no problems here, softies, polyps,mushrooms , or SPS's.like others have said, get the most you can,most of our experience has proved you will probably move up in the future:rolleyes: you can always adjust timer duration , if you have a problem with too much light in the beginning
 
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