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Discussion Starter · #1 ·

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I got a Reef Keeper Light, and I love it, but I'm going to upgrade to the elite soon!]

it dose pH, ATO, Temp, dosing, and some wave making!

not bad for little over $100...


also I have mine set up where it switches on for 3 sec then off for 5 sec until its full, that way it gives the water a chance to get to the reservoir because I pump it into the overflow, that way its well mixed before it gets through the sump.
 

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$ The Poor Reefer $
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i like the one rustl3r put up. its simple and easy. however, he mentions using a small powerhead, but i personally would use an aqualifter pump like the one at the end of his article. i'd say top off slowly, whereas even a small powerhead would be too fast for my liking. just my opinion though :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Jowee,
Do you run water from the RODI unit directly into your sump? That float switch looks great and your entire build for that matter. Looks really nice!:thumbup:
 

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I have my RO/DI plumbed to a float.
This is a disaster in the making. If that float fails, you will have a flood and a freshwater tank.

The other problem with doing this is that you are short cycling the RO/DI. What occurs is called TDS creep. The water that sits in the RO/DI unit when it is not running is higher in TDS from leaching and it needs to be flushed by running for extended periods. This small amount of high TDS water does not cause much of a problem if you fill a large container. However, since the float switch in the sump only allows for short bursts of water, this dumps high TDS water into your system constantly.

While it may seem convenient, this is not the recommended way to hook up an ATO.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
great reply. So that is why most have a separate "supply" container that holds fresh RODI water. Then I would use the aqua lifter pump, to pump water from the "supply" container to my Sump With appropriate float switches to turn on/off that aqua lifter pump. Does this sound right?
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
This is a disaster in the making. If that float fails, you will have a flood and a freshwater tank.
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This is what I was thinking. I have a friend who told me that it would be rare for that float to fail, but I always like to think worst case scenario...
 

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Does this sound right?
Yes, except for one thing. You mentioned putting your topoff supply in the basement below the tank and an aqualifter can pump about 30 inches of head pressure. You will need a different type of pump to push water up 12 to 15 feet of small diameter tubing.
 

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I just set up my Tunze Osomolator today. I ran almost 50ft of 1/4" OD tubing from my RO/DI to under my stand. I installed 2 tees there giving me 3 outlets. 1st one goes to a 5 gallon bucket under the tank which has the ATO pump in it. I have a manual shut off for it so when the bucket is empty I just flip the valve and fill the bucket then close the valve. That way I don't get the TDS creep like mentioned above. The other 2 lines are split between a 32 gallon Brute I use for mixing saltwater and a 22 gallon for freshwater.
The osmolator works great and turns the pump on about every 15-20 mins.
 

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This is a disaster in the making. If that float fails, you will have a flood and a freshwater tank.

The other problem with doing this is that you are short cycling the RO/DI. What occurs is called TDS creep. The water that sits in the RO/DI unit when it is not running is higher in TDS from leaching and it needs to be flushed by running for extended periods. This small amount of high TDS water does not cause much of a problem if you fill a large container. However, since the float switch in the sump only allows for short bursts of water, this dumps high TDS water into your system constantly.

While it may seem convenient, this is not the recommended way to hook up an ATO.
+1, IMO its better the make up some water in a separate container, and then pump into the sump..
 

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This is a disaster in the making. If that float fails, you will have a flood and a freshwater tank.

The other problem with doing this is that you are short cycling the RO/DI. What occurs is called TDS creep. The water that sits in the RO/DI unit when it is not running is higher in TDS from leaching and it needs to be flushed by running for extended periods. This small amount of high TDS water does not cause much of a problem if you fill a large container. However, since the float switch in the sump only allows for short bursts of water, this dumps high TDS water into your system constantly.

While it may seem convenient, this is not the recommended way to hook up an ATO.
I agree that there are chances of the float failing, but I think if you buy a good float it is very small. I unfortunately do not have room for make up water under my stand and until the tank has finished its cycle and I finish my lighting build in the next week or so I will not have my reefkeeper hooked up to do ato. Eventualy I will have a seperate brute container with fresh and a pump run off a float switch and the reefkeeper, but for now this will work. As far as tds creep and short cycling the ro unit, I will have to deal with burning up the more di resin. At this point I am in the middle of my build and nothing is set in stone. I have equipment in my other tank that I need to finish this up as soon as my cycle is done and I can get the lr and livestock transfered in here.
 

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I have a Spectrapure RO/DI and bought the Spectrapure ATO system to go with it.

My top off water is plumbed under the house through a 1/4" line and there is a vacuum control along with a float safety switch. It works perfectly. For water changes I take about 1/2 gallon out of the sump until the relay goes on, then pour about half back in there. The RODI water has a shut off valve to the sump and another to the fill line. I fill up a 30 gallon hefty, add salt to that then switch the valves back.
 
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