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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Can anyone tell me what are reasonable readings for PH, Ammonia, Nitrite/Nitrate, Alkalinity & Calcium, for both a reef tank & fish only tank. I know zero is best for Ammonia, & Nitrite/Nitrate & 8.3 for PH but what about Alkalinity & Calcium?

I just did the seachem alkalinity test & when I divided my drops by 2 my total was 12 - but without a guide chart I wasn't sure what my true reading was - I think it's 6 if I go by my old test kit.

My PH is reading low as well but I'm doing a water change tonight so hopefully I can get it back up.

Also, I just bought a 55 gallon tank & am going to set it up as a fish only tank so I was wanting advice on how the water parameters may be different from my existing reef tank, or if I need to follow the same guidelines.

I'm shopping for a light as well - can anyone suggest a good "fish only" light? Affordable if that's possible in this hobby.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
FO no LR or LS - crushed coral only & decorative rock for hiding places.

I did divided the # of drops (22 drops) by 2 - giving me a # of 11 -do I then divide that # by 2 to give me 5 1/2? It would be nice if they gave you a chart in the Seachem test but I guess they think we should know.........

The only problem I forsee with picking out a light is that the 55 gal tank that I'm using has a plastic center bracket so am I going to have to use 2 lights on each side of the bracket so not to melt the bracket or cast a shadow?
 

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Little fish in a big pond
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Seachem Alk test you divide the drops by 2 for your result. If you used 22 drops (!!!) your alkalinity is 11 - are you sure about that? On that scale you should be between 4 and 6.

On the 55, what are you going to use for biological filter? If you use no live rock, you may have nitrate problems in the long term.

FO can have lower salinity - 1.019-1.021 but otherwise params should stay same as reef - alk doesn't really matter much, as long as your pH is stable at 8.0 to 8.4 (not fluctuating betwee, but staying consistent within that range).

Lights - for a FO you only need a simple strip light, one 48" will not cast a shadow and it won't generate enough heat to melt the brace - however if you are placing the light directly on top of the tank you should have glass covers in place or you pose a fire hazard. If you do not intend to use glass covers, place the lights inside a canopy or on stilts to keep them off the open water.

Jenn
 

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Little fish in a big pond
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Oh and I should mention - you might want to rethink crushed coral - it's a huge detritus trap.

Jenn
 

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try going to Seachem's website. There are directions for all their test kits on the site.here
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Hey Jenn

I'll be coming to see you this Saturday to buy some fish so I'll bring a water sample to see what I'm doing wrong with my alkalinity test. I did a water change last night so it may test better today.

I still have a couple weeks befor I'll get the 55 up & running so I can still make some changes there. The only reason I was using crushed coral is because I happen to have a lot of it - can I mix it with some live sand? I was also not using LR since it was a FO tank in case I need to dose meds from time to time but I'm setting up a 12gal Eclipse as my QT tank anyway so I can do some LR & LS now in the 55.

I'll see you Saturday & we'll chat, thanks
 

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Summer and Alyssa's Daddy
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Marie, it is fine to mix. I actually do for the same reason. I have buckets of CC, from older days. My jawfish tank actually seems to prefer it, I think since his tunnels are probably more stable. I prefer the pure southdown approach that justin did but I didin't want to waste all my Caribsea Aruba shell.

ray
 
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