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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
First question maybe silly in terms of efficeincy is there a large difference between a house hold Brita and a R/O filter ?

Second What is the difference between buying those chemical treatments for tap water (supposedly if you dont have an R/O) and using an R/O.
Difference in efficeincy and price ????

Thanks to the brains in asvance
 

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RO/DI will bring your TDS (total disolved solids) to zero I don't think the drinking water filters can do that
 

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It all has to do with WHAT is being filtered.

Normal Brita filters are mainly carbon...which are good at sucking out some inpurities. Enough to make the water healthier to drink.

But RO/DI units use MORE than just carbon. MOST have at least a few stages...each stage specialized at filtering out something different then the others. Almost always in order of decreasing size.

The 1st chamber of most RO/DI units is a micron sock/sleeve...which mainly catches all partcles of a certain size or higher. Most commonly, there are 5 micron filters and 1 micron filters. The size (i.e. 1 micron) means that NO particles OVER that size will pass through.

The next chamber is usually a carbon block or some form of carbon. Carbon doesn't so much filter impurities as it does absorb them. I dont' remember the exact list of impurities it catches, but common ones are Nitrates, Chlorine, etc.

RO units then have a membrane. Easiest way to describe this, is it's like Skin. Water doesn't flow through the membrane...it actually transfers through it via osmosis. The skin won't allow certain most to pass through other than pretty pure H20.

DI units then come with a additional chamber that filters out silicates and a few other impurities that we don't want in our tanks.

So those are all the stages of common RO/DI units...which will almost all get water down to 99.9% pure. Brita utilizes only ONE of those stages, and comes no where NEAR 99.9% purity.

So no...not the same at all. If you used a brita filter to make your tap water...well..it's be better than tap water alone...but still would allow a lot of bad stuff through (metals/particles in the water, silicates that will fuel diatom blooms, some nitrates that will fuel algae, etc)

Hope that helps...
 

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Mike has it. :thumbup:


As to the tapwater conditioner, these break down the harmful compounds (chlorines, chloramines, ammonia, nitrate, trite, a few others) into less harmful compounds. These conditioners do not take care of any heavy metals (as they wont evaporate).

It's best just to buy a good RO/DI unit (I recommend spectrapure) right off the bat; $200 or so seems like a lot, but when you figure out the cost of buying and transporting water it's nothing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The gentleman I got my tank from gave me his 30 gallon per day R/O filter and I got a 100 gallon reserve tank..

Problem solved sorry Brita company ;)
 

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Nyer I just wanted to let you know my RO unit is up and running. I did my first water change with it yesterday. As far as I can tell it seems to work really well. I also made an extra 30 gallon for top off water. Once again thanks for the link.
 

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is it a ro or a ro/di unit? A ro/di makes a better end product for our reef tanks.
If your tap water has any nitrates or phosphates you want a DI housing on the end of the RO.
 

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i have a brita water filter and it just uses a little cartridge filled with what im pretty sure is activated carbon like the type typically used in HOB filters. carbon adsorbs (not to be confused with absorbs) while an ro, ro/di unit uses semi-permeable membranes that separate the water from the impurities. an ro/di will give you better results than using water conditioners which remove chlorine and chloramines but dont always eliminate the ammonia released when chloramines are broken down also conditioners dont deal with heavy metals well and ive noticed they cause the skimmer to foam more.
 
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