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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Do you recommend it? I have a 65g with 50lbs of rocks, tank is about 3 months old

I have some torch n xenia right now, would I see that Mich of a difference if I did the Vodka?
 

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No, I would not recommend it. There are specific reasons for doing this and unless your having a problem then I would not do it.
 

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Do you recommend it? I have a 65g with 50lbs of rocks, tank is about 3 months old

I have some torch n xenia right now, would I see that Mich of a difference if I did the Vodka?
Vodka Dosing creates bacteria that eats Trates first, then goes after Phosphates.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I had an Angel fish that died while I was away for a day and it obviously deteriated in my tank causing my Kole tang to die as well, I did about a 20g water change and now my ammonia is back to 0, tank looks great all my corals n fish are doing great...but how much Vodka would I put in my tank?
 

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No. Do not dose. Tanks that are less than 6 months old is not established enough to normally deal with the changes as the tank itself is still becoming stable. The purpose of carbon dosing is to create an ultra low nutrient (ULN) system and is very VERY complex and requires its users to be very careful. Very small incosistences in dosing can kill a tank... everything. Xenia and even LPS are not as sensitive to non-ULN systems, but SPS are. It does not change LPS colors in my experiences. Read everything you can before dosing and act like you are adding poison to your tank... because you kinda are.

Follow my thread as to see how my 4th system that has ran carbon is doing and know the reasons why I am dosing. Vodka dosing is something I do but done recommend.
 

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No. Do not dose. Tanks that are less than 6 months old is not established enough to normally deal with the changes as the tank itself is still becoming stable. The purpose of carbon dosing is to create an ultra low nutrient (ULN) system and is very VERY complex and requires its users to be very careful. Very small incosistences in dosing can kill a tank... everything. Xenia and even LPS are not as sensitive to non-ULN systems, but SPS are. It does not change LPS colors in my experiences. Read everything you can before dosing and act like you are adding poison to your tank... because you kinda are.

Follow my thread as to see how my 4 system that has ran carbon is doing and know the reasons why I am dosing. Vodka dosing is something I do but done recommend.
+1
 

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++1 You can't just starat throwing in Vodka, you must follow the instructions and find out what your dose will be. Follow this link.
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2008-08/nftt/index.php

Dosing Instructions

These instructions will focus solely on using 80 proof vodka (40% ethanol by volume). They do not pertain to other organic carbon sources that are also currently used, including common table sugar (sucrose) and vinegar (sodium acetate). The dosing instructions below were as dictated by J�rg Kokott and have been used successfully by us.
  1. Test your system�s NO3 and PO4 levels. Do not dose if you do not know this! We recommend good test kits that have some low level of sensitivity. This will be important later on to determining a maintenance dose regimen. During the initial dosing test often and adjust dosing parameters as needed as each tank�s requirement will be different. Dosing accuracy is of the utmost importance. A graduated measurement tool such as a syringe will come in handy. A journal of additions and test kit measurements is recommended.
  2. Estimate your Net Water Volume (NWV) of your system. (Aquarium volume + sump + refugium + reactor volumes) � (live rock displacement). It can be difficult to accurately measure the amount of water being displaced by the live rock. If unsure of the volume of live rock we suggest taking 30% off your display tank�s Gross Water Volume. For vodka dosing there is absolutely no harm in underestimating the Net Water Volume and is recommended. As an example, let us assume that your setup contains 100 Net Gallons.
  3. The starting dosage is 0.1ml of vodka per 25 gallons (~100 liters) NWV daily continued for three days. For 100 Net Gallons, your dosage would be 0.4ml daily during this period. It has been suggested to cut the daily dosage in half and dose twice daily for more consistency.
  4. Days 4-7, double the daily dosage to 0.2ml of vodka per 25 gallons NWV. Your example dosage would be 0.8ml daily during this period.
  5. Each subsequent week add an additional 0.5ml of vodka regardless of aquaria volume. At this point your example dosage during week two would be 1.3ml daily. If you do not see nutrient levels decrease during this week, the following week add an additional 0.5ml for a daily dosage of 1.8ml daily.
  6. When your NO3 and PO4 levels start to drop maintain the current dose. For example, if you were on week two when NO3 start to fall on 100 Net Water Volume you would add 1.3mL daily at this time for the continuing weeks until the NO3 becomes undetectable.
  7. When your NO3 and PO4 levels drop near undetectable with your test kits cut your current dose in half. This will be your starting maintenance dose (if the levels drop during week 2 then the dose after reaching undetectable levels would be 0.65ml daily [1.3ml divide by 2]).
  8. Continue to test for NO3 and PO4. If levels become detectable in the future increase your daily dose by 0.1ml increments per week until the levels start to decrease. If you maintain that dose the levels will eventually drop back to undetectable. This would become your new maintenance dose.
 

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++1 You can't just starat throwing in Vodka, you must follow the instructions and find out what your dose will be. Follow this link.
http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2008-08/nftt/index.php
+1 but you also have to have a valid reason.... if you dose you need to be able to say the reason you need to not just, "cuzz I felt like it" ;)
 

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im just starting to research this area of the hobby. from what ive read the only reason to dose would be an over stocked tank.
if your tank is only 3 months old i wouldnt do anything but water changes and stock slowly! give it time to mature
 

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Yeah, from what I know its useful for people who are trying to keep ultra low nutrient (SPS dominated) systems, have done EVERYTHING they possibly can maintenance wise and are still having detectable nutrients. Unless a person can say with 100% certainty that they meet all of those criteria and are pretty experienced with SPS particularly, I would definitely not carbon dose.
 

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it seems to me, though, that with regular water changes nitrates and phosphates shouldnt be much of a problem on an understocked tank.
Just my thought.
or i guess if your not into water changes :)
 

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+1 FSU, +1 mook... that is the trick
 

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+1 FSU, +1 mook... that is the trick
Doesn't always work that way. Like for me, that why I dose. And I don't have any SPS inmy tank. Nitrates were at 200 at one point. Now I don't worry abou them, test once a week and they are never detectable now. I use RO/DI. Some systems just harbor trates, no way around it. Some smaller systems, I'll grant you, they are able to do water changes once or even twice a week to keep these in check, I on the other hand am not going to change 55 gallons of water twice a week.
 

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Doesn't always work that way. Like for me, that why I dose. And I don't have any SPS inmy tank. Nitrates were at 200 at one point. Now I don't worry abou them, test once a week and they are never detectable now. I use RO/DI. Some systems just harbor trates, no way around it. Some smaller systems, I'll grant you, they are able to do water changes once or even twice a week to keep these in check, I on the other hand am not going to change 55 gallons of water twice a week.
Respectfully, I must disagree. :read: I don't think that some tanks "harbor" nitrates. Nitrates are not something that magically appears or stays in a tank. We as the hobbyist add the nitrates to our system. Even if it is a used system, and the nitrates are "pre-added", we are just buying someone else's problem/bad habits. Proper husbandry and other methods can solve any problem that dosing can solve... and nitrate "control" is a reckless use of carbon dosing. Vodka is for creating a ultra-low nutrient system (mostly for corals that are low nutrient corals such as SPS) where nutrients are already controlled, but the hobbyist wishes to seek the more extreme low nutrient scale. I am using vodka to maintain a low nutrient system for my SPS while I have temporary overstocked my tank (while I am waiting to get my bigger tank set up again). It is not a method that should be widely used for basic nutrient transport. If anyone is having to do semi-weekly 20%+ waterchanges, then there is a serious issue with nutrients being added to the system (non-photosynthetic corals systems excluded). I find advocating carbon as nutrient export method is DANGEROUS and systems that do not need the ULN system (LPS/Softie/FOWLR systems) should not dose vodka at all.

Hey, I started this more recent carbon interest on this forum, I guess I am cursed to keep it under control. :doh:
 
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