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Why is Reefing so hard ?
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, I have got alot ups and downs with this issue of wheather i should use an overflow with my 110 Gallon not drilled tank or just buy a 90 gallon tank at my local fish store that is already drilled for $280.00 ? Also the 90 Gallon is 48" Long 18" Deep 24" High and my 110 gallon tank is 48" Long 18" Deep 31" High. I know the only thing that is going to make a difference is the strength of the light i will need and using an overflow or not. Right now i am planning to make my 110 gallon a reef tank and i am going to need a 2 x 250 watt Metal Halide Fixture. I am wondering that if i get the 90 gallon i dont know if i will need 2 x 250? Will a 2 x 150 Metal Halide Fixture do it? It will also be less harsh on my utility bill. On estimate what does a 2 x 250 Fixture cost to run monthly? What does a 2 x 150 cost to run monthly? I have a few pictures of my tank on the website if you want take a look and tell me what you think? Anyone with any information could really help me because i want a reef tank that is going to be healthy and the best for what i have to work with. Thanks for you help !!! :)
 

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Well you have the 110 Already, but its not the ideal tank for a serious coral tank, the added height will require more powerful lights unless you opt for a really deep sand bed, and a lot of high stacked live rock. Hang on overflows will work, how well depends on which one you choose and what you expect from it, the beauty of a drilled tank is that you arent obligated to run the overflow at near max capacity to avoid possible airlock from trapped bubbles.
As to which lights, a of that depends on what specific types of coral and other reef animals you have a burning desire to keep. There is no one size fits all reef tank formula, coral reefs and the creatures that live there have a wide variety of niches they fill, and the best plan is to decide what then work out the how before spending a lot of $$$$
As far as operating costs, just the lighting alone for a 2x250 watt MH is half a kilowatt/ hr for the lights alone, add 20-50% depending on what type of ballast. Electronic Ballast are more efficient than old fashioned coil and can or tar ballast(found in some cheapo retrofit kits)
A shorter (ie 24" vs 31") tank could benefit from T5 lighting, depending on what animals you gotta have.
If you know what you really can't live with out or what you have your heart set on, it would be easier for suggestions as to what works and what doesnt

Oh, WELCOME to TRT :D
 

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I've got the REEF rash!
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61,660 Posts
:wavey:Welcome to TRT!:wavey:Like they said but if you know someone that would trade or buy then get enougher one.
 

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The Watcher
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2,046 Posts
Or think about drilling your 110. goto Glass-holes.com , I drilled my 75 using one of their kits and it worked great!
 

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As stated above, it really depends on what corals you want to keep and how low you want to put stuff.
I would definitely drill the 110 (as long as it's not tempered glass) instead of using a hang-on overflow. Drilling is not that hard and you can really get creative and customize it any way you want.
IMO one MH won't give enough coverage on a 48" tank (especially if you hang it in the middle and your tank has a center brace). You could always use 1 MH and flourescents and design a tank with rockwork only on one side (under the MH) making kind of a drop-off effect.
I'm sure you can get away with alot of options depending on how you design the tank with the corals in mind.
 

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I started with a hang on back overflow. It's functional but also an additional maintenance chore. Priming it got to be a pain; plus it's limited as to the total amount of water it can drain. There's also a greater risk of water on the floor! The drilled tank I have now is sooo nice compared to my old one; if you can swing it, it's worth doing the drilled overflow. Put in a drain a little larger than you need and you'll be able to run all the flow you want. Assuming of course you're sump is big enough!
 

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Agree with them I do...IMO the big issue with a HOB overflow is not IF it fails, but more a matter of WHEN. That said I've had many tanks that were not drilled and used various HOB overflows, even some elaborate DIY contraptions. All worked fine and so long as your careful with how you do the plumbing you can minimize the mess caused by a failure. As for a drilled tank there really is no comparison...as the others have mentioned the ease of maintenance, aesthetics, and smaller risk of a flood all make the drilled tank the better choice in the long run.
 

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Why is Reefing so hard ?
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418 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I Think I Am Going To Go Driilled

Hi, I just want to say to all of you thank you so much for all of your help and advice on everything. I think i am going to get the drilled tank because a good overflow ranges from $100-$150 and for the extra $130 i can just get a brand new drilled tank. I want to go with the Octopus DNW-200 but the space under my tank is only about 25". I think the Octopus NW-200 will fit. I want to get the best Protein Skimmer for the 90 gallon tank because i want my tank to be healthy and successful. What can i do? I am looking at a HQI Metal Halide light on ebay, here is the link tell me what you think of it? The auction has ended but if you scroll down you can still see the light and all the specs on it and he has many available if anyone else is interested as well. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=110269832916&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=001
I don't know what a HQI is? Thats what people are telling me to get, if anyone could clear this up for me i would really appreciate it because i am so confused with all of these technical terms. I hope to hear from you soon. Thanks for all the help
 
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