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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
ive been debating taking my lid off, i know alot of you run your tanks without it, mine is starting to get white from salt and dirt, i was wonder if this will increase evaporation, and if any of my fish will jump, bicolor blenny, 2 oc. clowns, neon goby, pajama cardinal, and a royal gramma. are any of these known jumpers?
 

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can you take it off with your lights...............i want to take mine off too but my coralife PC lights say for use with a covered aquarium only??? i have a glass top on mine ...........nut having it uncovered helps the oxygen exchange..............so eggcrate maybe?
 

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i run no top with nova t-5's and one nove pc 64W no prob about 3 gal per week evap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
ionracing said:
can you take it off with your lights...............i want to take mine off too but my coralife PC lights say for use with a covered aquarium only??? i have a glass top on mine ...........nut having it uncovered helps the oxygen exchange..............so eggcrate maybe?
i see no reason why it would hurt to take it off, my light rig is about 6 inches above the top of the tank, there is no splash in my system, and the light itself has a glass sheild over the bulbs, they might say that for their own protection, if anyone can think of a different reason, let me know.
 

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It is best to leave a tank open *no glass tops* and use eggcrate to keep in the jumpers.

Your lights should be ok, but they may wear out faster since they are being exposed to more salt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
how would they be exposed to salt? that doesnt make sense, no splash, salt doesnt evaporate, no spray. and the light itself has a glass bottom that slides out to work on the ballast and replace bulbs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
so does anyone think any of my fish are prone to jump?
 

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leveldrummer said:
how would they be exposed to salt? that doesnt make sense, no splash, salt doesnt evaporate, no spray. and the light itself has a glass bottom that slides out to work on the ballast and replace bulbs.
The water will splash if you have the right amount of movement in your tank- it's impossible to avoid. Just wait until you've had your tank awhile- you will have salt creep everywhere- including your light fixture. It just happens. You may not *see* the splash, but it's happening. You will see the salt leftover though. You can lick any part of my cabinet and it will taste salty.

The glass protects the light bulb which is a must. However, the sides of the light fixture and any openings will be exposed to salt.
 

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I will say that once You understand hazards of salt water and electric. The two can be a very high danger, Taking your tops off are the best thing to do, for one better venting and cooling, 2 why spend big bucks on lighting and then block it out with glass. I have not had glass on a tank in the past 20 years and never will. Just be smart about it. and keep the connection salt creep free.
 

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pastina said:
im toppless :banana:
:nuts:

I'd like to see pix of that... :D


...back on target, removing the tops will (as Vince has already pointed out) dramatically improve your light penetration into the tank, not only due to improving transmission otherwise blocked as it passes through the glass itself, but due to the removal of the encrusted salt that inevitably will form on the bottom side of the glass (and the top, edges, wall, floor, front steps, nextdoor neighbor's cat... :rolleyes: ).

A second often overlooked issue is related to the decrease in exchange of atmospheric oxygen with the surface of the water, and accumulation of CO2 in the air layer between the surface of the water and the glass covers. This CO2 accumulation is often one of several issues that drive down overall pH ranges in systems with chronic low pH issues. As the air trapped above the tank water exchanges it's diminishing O2 concentration for CO2 as animal respirations (and at night, plant respirtions) consume the O2 and produce CO2, pH will gradually drop, taking the daily range of 8.1 to 8.3 down to 7.9 to 8.2 or lower overall. This may begin to deplete your alkalinity in the system as the buffering effect of the carbonate/bicarbonate system is consumed while absorbing the excess protons produced by this process. Removing the lids releases the trapped CO2 and allows for free exchange of the atmospheric levels of O2 and CO2 with the water column, a VERY good thing.

In addition to trapping CO2 at the surface of the system, the water vapor that normally escapes from the surface of the water column takes with it the heat of evaporation energy from the surface of the tank.
this allows for natural cooling that does not require mechanical intervention or the use of electrical energy short of what we already supply to the pumps to create circulation. Depending on the depth of the tank and how much srface area and circulation are available, this can be significant, up to as much as 3 degrees F on normal system setups just by removing the covers. With the use of fans and a few enhancements of your setup, it can be as much as 5 or 6 degrees F. However, with the lids in place, heat will actually accumulate in your system, allowing for increases up to 4 to 6 degrees, again, depending on conditions in your system and the size of the overall tank and heat sources driving accumulation.


Lids may be fine for systems with FW or plants only, but for coral reef systems where we need evaporation for cooling, good interference-free lighting, and efficient exchange of two of our major gasses associated with our most basic husbandry needs; glass tops for a marine reef are more than counterproductive, they are essentially deterrents to good coral growth and develoment. I encourage folks to remove the lids unless you have something (gasses or fumes) that MUST be kept out of the system, and then to use them only during the time those fumes will be present (as when painting a room, kids parties, non-aquarists smoker's adult parties, etc.). The use of eggcrate over the top of your systems will prevent jumpers from carpet surfing, while allowing for good lighting, good gas exchange, and evaporative cooling. I would encourage those of you with jumper concerns to use these instead of glass covers. As far as glass bulbs and SW spray, either raise the bulbs high enough to prevent spray from reaching the bulbs, or redirect your powerheads/tunzes/spray bars, etc., so that the current is not directly under the bulbs (I personally keep my bulbs at 4" above the surface without problems, but have the current and surge devices arranged so this is not an issue.)

Dump the lids on your FW friends, keep your system open to the atmosphere.


HTH
 

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wharyat said:
I don't think any of those fish will jump, so egg-crate isn't totally necessary.

Top off is the way to go.
true but sometimes a goby or blenny like he has will go a little nuts and jump around alot. My watchman wound up in the overflow 8 times since i got him. I reccomend at least an egg crate.
 

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My neon goby regularly slips into the overflow, so now he lives there. I think it's more a matter of him just sliding over the edge though, rather than jumping. The only fish I've had jump are two firefish and one mandarin dragonette (if you can believe that!) and he made it out of the only opening in the top, a vertical (not horizontal) gap of about an inch.
 

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One thing you need to think of is that you will get salt creep up the wall if your tank is close to the wall.
 

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I took mine off cause with no heater and as soon as I installed my sump pump the temps went up to bout 83 degrees, I took it off and added eggcrate and now the temps are about 80 degrees so it helped me get back down in temps a little. I'm glad I did the eggcrate cause I have already heard/seen my goby jump and hit it once.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
well, i believe you all convinced me, look out new orleans, IM GOING TOPLESS!!!
 
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