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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guess thinking about breaking down my system and do it over
Reasons
-I am pretty sure I have seen ich once or twice on fish
-not happy with substrate, want white sand without black mixed in
-not happy with rock scape, would rather by dry rock and do a cool scape, rock work now is very functional, lots of critters and hide outs
- need to build new sump as mine now has a leak and I want to add a bigger sump And skimmer
- found a few fish I would rather have like purple tang instead of kole tang, blue chromis instead of my black axil chromis
Do you guys think I'm being to picky, my fish all live in perfect harmony now and seem healthy, even trained my mandarin to eat frozen, basically I would send fish I want to keep through copper or hypo and de worm them just incase. And would work on main tank in the weeks they are getting treated. Anyone ever done this and find it to better off?
 

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I have done it plenty of times with Fresh Water Tanks. However, I'm a newbie to Salt, so can't say that I have, or offer you much advice, except for the fact, if you are unhappy with your tank set up, and plan to rehome the fish you don't intend to keep, then I think you should do it. I think being happy with your tank leads to being a better fish keeper. Good Luck!
 

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I'm just getting to the point where I am starting different/ multiple systems. I love starting things over or right from scratch. I'm actually giving my large sw another 6-12 months and I'm going to do the same thing as you. If it weren't for that I don't think I'd be doing this hobby any more. I love the fish and coral, but the build is just as fun.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yes I agree so do I, the build is a whole lot of fun. I am not really trying to just build and break it down again but I am just trying to put this one main display together the right way, like QTing everything, getting good equipment, I have Fiji rock but I would kinda like some of pukani or whatever it is from bulk reef supply
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
After I get this one the way I want it will just evolve but I will probably do another build or two but this is my first build and I pretty much devote my minimum wage paychecks to the hobby, still in college lol
 

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I think when you do your first tank.you usually do a few things wrong. Im sure every person on this site has done it if they say they havent probally lying or researched the heck out of it before they did everything. My first tank I decided I didnt want a sump well when I couldnt really go any further had nothing else I could possibly do to my tank in my budget I decided I wanted a sump. Bought a reef ready tank built a stand and a sump. This was about 3 months ago been in the hobby for a year this time did a tank 10 years ago but didnt have the people to help like on trt and I failed miserably. I would like a bigger tank now but really dont want to buy all the lighying again I have a 75 want tk stay in the 4ft foot print 90 is my only other choice.
 

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I'd say go for it, gotta keep it interesting. Have you read the reefkeeping made easy thread? It's really awesome. You'll get the gist of it about thirty pages in, so don't feel like you HAVE to read the whole thing (I did though!). Lots of people said they wished they'd read it before they started up their tanks; they would have done a lot of things different.

Will you be setting up a hospital tank, or using your current setup as a hospital while you build a completely new display tank?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I will be doing a new hospital tank, I have a twenty but I'm going to get like 55 or bigger to use since tangs will be there for awhile, probably use the twenty for clowns and mandarin, I have a flame so I plan on using hypo treatment? Is this as effective as copper treatment
 

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Ive used hypo successfully. Just be sure you have a refractometer for accurate measurement. And be patient and set up and cycle your hospital tanks since theyll be in there a while. While you are setting up your display and cycling it.
 

· Doc Holiday
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I like hypo better but it takes time. To drop in to hypo and even more for it to be successful. Which is good cause it will give ya plenty of time to cycle the new setup.
 

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I tried copper once and was not successful. I researched, read directions, etc, and it did not seem to work. It was a pair of clownfish, I am not sure what they had, I don't think it was ich though. I'm sure you can find the thread somewhere on this forum, should be around 2003 was the year, I think, if you want details. I can't remember them now. I just remember trying to test for the copper with the two different copper test kits (seachem and red sea) and it was super unclear, no good results, frustrating and stressful not being able to know if the dosage was correct. I tend to obsess and research and try for perfection and I recall it being an extremely unsatisfying experiencs...free copper? bound copper? which test kits test for which? Which ones are harmful to the fish.....aaaaaaahhhhhh! I'm reliving the agony all over again!

Go for the hypo, or even better, tank transfer method. But if you have a lot of time before tank's cycled, go with hypo. It's all going to take time and a lot of money so you're screwed either way ;)

You could try Rid-ich. I always have success with freshwater fish with that one (in the rare cases I've needed it, usually after introducing new fish). The saltwater fish, the one time I used it (FO tank), seemed more resistant so continue the treatment (tx is the medical abbreviation for treatment) for several days after all signs of ich have disappeared. Also whichever method you use, scrape/siphon simultaneously the bare bottom of the tank every couple days to remove the ich tomites from the bottom of the tank. And with hypo, remember you can lower the salinity quicker but after the allotted time in hypo (invest in a refractometer to get PRECISE salinity readings!), take your time raising it back up again. Read all about it in the stickies in the fish disease section of the forum.
 

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If You are retaining the current DT for the 'new' DT and want to retain the life on your LR:

I'd obtain a large tank, set it up with a filter with a goodly amount of biomedia, bare bottom with pvc and hiding spots and plastic plants, let it cycle for a month, put your fish in there, start to bring it down to hypo if you see any signs of ich. in the meantime, you are re-setting up your display tank. You said you wanted white sand. Might I suggest a smaller grain crushed coral, which you can siphon detritus out of much easier than sand, perhaps an inch or so deep, for looks. Maybe you need to process/cycle the rock, whatever, to remove nutrient and detritus (read the reefkeeping made easy thread for details), if you're having algae problems. You didn't mention having them so that's good. Once you've got it all set up, and cycled, you'll probably be done with the hypo or whatever method you use to reduce/remove ich, and you'll be able to put everybody into the display (perhaps one or two fish every few days, giving the bacteria time to catch up with the increased load). Just take your time setting up that QT if you want the bacteria to be able to handle the fish load. I QT'ed my fish once and I didn't allow or have enough time to set up a properly cycled QT, and I lost a couple fish that way, so I know from experience how important it is to have a QT set up and ready to go at all times. Fighting water quality issues is no fun and very stressful to you and the fish. Free ammonia, bound ammonia, test kits read which one,.....aaaaaahhhhh....reliving the agony again.... don't go there. early days in the hobby are such learning experiences!
 
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