[JrcEngineering]

I quickly drew up my idea of a cheap sump layout on microsoft paint. I simply want to move my skimmer and heater off the back of my tank and add more volume to increase my safty margin . I have a 20 gallon high tank that fits nicely in the bottom of my stand, I figure if i put a siphon tube down from my tank to the 20 gallon, put my skimmer heater and some rock and sand down there also , then use a strong powerhead to pump the water back up to the main tank it would meet all my needs . Does anyone see any problems with this ? or any better ideas? i cant spend alot of money if any .

 

[RocketSurgeon]

The sump is a good idea, although I don't follow how you are going to get the water to it. A simple siphon hose will not work.
You must drill the tank or use an overflow box. the overflow box can be bought or DIY (do it yourself).

 

[deanp88]

Plus, you don't want sand in your sump where you have your equipment. If your tank is not drilled you need an overflow box and a return pump.

 

[egator89]

i would say also that i would swap the baffles around in the sump
but agreed on an overflow box

 

[JrcEngineering]

ok i am going to buy an overflow box , but how fast should i pump it back to the tank ? should i have live rock in there ? will my remorea skimmer be enough for the added gallons and do i need an other filters ? can i put my heater in the sump ?

 

[bnautic]

You'll need the flow into the tank (return pump) to match the flow coming down (gravity) from the overflow box. Many people put a valve on the return line to help balance the two. The size of your overflow tubing determines the downward flow. You can't exceed that rate, no matter how fast you try to pump the water back.

LR in sump ... open question that you'll find plenty of opinion both ways. Heater in the sump, absolutely OK.

Oh, and put your skimmer on the other side of the sump, away from the return pump or you will likely have a problem with micro bubbles.

 

[RocketSurgeon]

Typically, one would see 3 to 10 times the display volume for your flow to the sump. You must have adequate drain lines to accomodate this, or adjust your flow accordingly. If you pump faster than you can drain, you will overflow.

Keep in mind headloss when determining pump size.

 

[Ntvper]

You'll need the flow into the tank (return pump) to match the flow coming down (gravity) from the overflow box. Many people put a valve on the return line to help balance the two. The size of your overflow tubing determines the downward flow. You can't exceed that rate, no matter how fast you try to pump the water back.

LR in sump ... open question that you'll find plenty of opinion both ways. Heater in the sump, absolutely OK.

Oh, and put your skimmer on the other side of the sump, away from the return pump or you will likely have a problem with micro bubbles.

+1 quick note all overflows have a rating in GPH to sump if your return pump isnt rated at that with head flow (u lose GPH every foot or so) u wont be at full flow which is okay full flow or over will get ya that unsettling gurgling noise from overflow box. so if your overflow is rated at lets say 500GPH get a pump that will do 500 GPH at (whatever the distance it is from sump to DT)

 

[RocketSurgeon]

...put your skimmer on the other side of the sump, away from the return pump or you will likely have a problem with micro bubbles.

Sound advice, but if your skimmer is tuned correctly, micro bubbles will be minimal.

 

[JrcEngineering]

Ok so i decided to try and build a sump yesterday, i used a 20 gallon high tank, i put my skimmer and heater in there also, i built the overflow from pvc pipe and the return from pvc. i found a pond pump at lowes that was rated at 700 gph it was an open box item so i picked it up for around 50 bucks. I was having trouble syncing the flow of the feed and return, but i think i got it right im watching it right now . Questions i have .... is there an easy way to sync the flow and return ? how can i create fail safes for overflowing. i tried making a acrylic do-hickey that i say was being used in sumps at my local fish stores but it isnt working the what theres are . Theres divides the tank in 2 and when the water level gets high enough it drips down the acrylic and stops bubbles. there is a 1 inch gap on the bottom where no arylic is so i dont see how this works . IL post up pictures

 

[JrcEngineering]

 

[JrcEngineering]

 

[Ntvper]

i really like the background u picked for the sump

 

[JrcEngineering]

i used this deisign for the overflow

 

[Ntvper]

Ok so i decided to try and build a sump yesterday, i used a 20 gallon high tank, i put my skimmer and heater in there also, i built the overflow from pvc pipe and the return from pvc. i found a pond pump at lowes that was rated at 700 gph it was an open box item so i picked it up for around 50 bucks. I was having trouble syncing the flow of the feed and return, but i think i got it right im watching it right now . Questions i have .... is there an easy way to sync the flow and return ? how can i create fail safes for overflowing. i tried making a acrylic do-hickey that i say was being used in sumps at my local fish stores but it isnt working the what theres are . Theres divides the tank in 2 and when the water level gets high enough it drips down the acrylic and stops bubbles. there is a 1 inch gap on the bottom where no arylic is so i dont see how this works . IL post up pictures

u have ball valves so slow the flow to the DT from the return pump. watch the water level in sump shouldnt go above your baffles too much and slowly open until you have a good flow through system. if it gurgles in the overflow box then too much return flow and is over powering your overflow box. also when your flow is set to where u want it then unplug the return pump and watch the level rise in sump. simulates power outage. if it overflows your sump ya got a minor problem to fix

 

[JrcEngineering]

well i my pump will shut off if it sucks air so if i loose the feed the pump wont overflow the top tank and where the overflow is located it can only put 3 gallons in the sump befor it sucks air, so i think im alright on the overflowing part. I have 2 ball valves one on the feed pluming and i have a T fitting on the return so instead of restricting the pump which would damage it i have a bypass and just route the water back into the sump. The only thing that confuses me is the baffels

 

[Ntvper]

first off there should be no valve on the 'to sump' plumbing no need to regulate flow from there all flow is regulated at the return line. gravity fed is best. and how do the baffles confuse ya?

 

[JrcEngineering]

Im not sure how they go . i Copied the one from my lfs , which looked like the picture attached some how there was less water on the pump side and water would overflow over the top of the acrylic . the water in my sump just stayes equel on both sides.

 

[Ntvper]

awe who knows why they did that i would ask them unless its to create a small bubble trap and the water overflowing baffles hits that little cup area and smooths out the flow but looks backwards for that idea. i would go with the simple yet eloquent bubble trap like this

 

[Ntvper]

also never heard of ruining a pump by restricting the flow. i have a 1000GPH return pump and it never pumps anywhere near 500gph maybe 300gph tops due to gate valve. and its over a year old and was the cheap kind off ebay by odyssea. heat will damage a pump, running without water will damage a pump. but there might be a cheap pump that could get ruined by restricting flow but then what about head loss/pressure....oh well. another topic for another day.