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· Fuzzy Stick Crazy
7,385 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)

Its time for a new build as I am moving to a larger place and can have my own fish room :D:D. Really stepping it up this time with...

  • A 120gal 4x2x25" This will be a peninsula display.

  • 90g frag tank.... 48x24x17 Glass <- 8+ sq feet of egg-crate area :D:D:D!

  • 80g sump..........48x18x22. Also glass this will be filled to about 50g to allow for FT and DT drainage. Ill DIY my own baffles.
  • 8.5g breeder/refugium. I'll attempt to breed skunk cleaners in this tank or other livestock
  • Custom built stands and DT/FT canopies.

Equipment will include

  • DIY LED lighting for both FT and DT. My 90 Frag will have the same light as the 55 I have now.DT lighting will be about 100 LED's all controlled by a typhoon from Boost LED

  • Vertex Alpha 200 skimmer w/ red dragon pump.
  • Bio-pellet reactor (haven't chosen the bio-pellet make yet so if you have suggestions let me know). Probably vertex UF-15 reactor
  • 2x MP40 for display and 2xMP10 for frag. If necessary I may get an MP60 over an MP40 for more flow.
  • ATO w/ large reservoir. Not considering kalk right now but maybe later.
  • ADO (auto dosing machine) I may get a calcium reactor down the road when my Ca demand increases. Right now its not a necessity.
  • 700W of heat. 300W+200W Jager on a Ranco Controller. 200W Fluval E series
  • Quietone 5000 for DT return pump
  • Quiet-one 3000 for FT return
  • Filter Socks for Mechanical filtraion
  • The old 55 will likely be a QT.
  • No chiller or UV or ozone. remember to KISS
  • RO/DI 90gpd
Livestock Details

  • SPS dominant display with LPS and minimal softies probably zoos only. I will keep my xenia and branching GSP contained to my FT and farm it.
  • Additional LR will be Fiji Live. I will aqauscape with acrylic rods and large ceramic tiles for a base. DT will be a Peninsula
  • Will have a SSB with 1-2mm size sand. Not super fine but not crushed coral either.
  • Minimal fish in the frag tank. Probably just a wrasse to keep the bug population low.
  • Auto Feeder for Anthias.
  • Display fish include
    • White tail bristletooth tang
    • Yellow tang
    • 8x Blue Green Chromis (have 3 already)
    • Swissgaurd Basslet (may looking into finding a him a mate)
    • Yellow Watchman Goby
    • True Perc Clown
    • Black Ocellaris clown pair (considering a nem but not sold yet)
    • Anthias
    • Midas Blenny
    • CopperBand in Frag tank for pest control.
    • Rainfords Goby
Setup Process

As of right now I have placed the orders for the 90 frag (Ft will not be an interim display) and the 80 sump. I plan to set those up with the bio-pellet reactor (will be empty until livestock is transferred) and vertex skimmer in a few weeks. I will run that system for a while (few months) so I can save up $$ for a display. I can afford almost all of it now but I would be broke and I like having a little safety blanket in my savings account.

After the 90+80 is set up and running ok. I will buy 100lbs of pukani dry rock off BRS and begin curing it as I have heard it its soaked in phosphates. My 55g with its current filtration system will work well for this; no need for totes. Speaking of totes Ill have some large brute containers around for water changes. I'm thinking 50 gal every 2 weeks will be sufficient once the whole thing is running.

Once I purchase the DT ill install it and plumb it into the system but not open the valves yet. Ill fill it with RO/DI and salt and let it mix for a few days. I'll match the salinity and parameters as best I can. Then I will add the dry sand. After the sand has settled I'll start circulating in the new volume with a low gph pump so the two volumes can mix slowly. I don't want to shock anything.

After everything is mixed well I will install the larger pan-world return pump and begin filling with LR. The LR (as well as my existing LR) will be pre-aquascaped before it was cured so reassembling it will be a snap and it will spend minimal time out of water.

After the LR is in I'll build the LED light for the tank. After that the fish and corals can be moved over. I'll have to expand my clean up crew considerably to compensate for the extra real-estate. After that its a new fish a week until I feel like Im stocked or I finish the list above. After that its hurry up and wait for everything to mature.

So thats my plan in a nutshell what do you guys think?

· Fuzzy Stick Crazy
7,385 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)

Order 90FT and 80. (check)
Build stand for 90 and 8.5. This will be a 60"x24"x40H stand so it can fit the 8.5 and 90 and the 80 sump. (check)
Install and plumb equipment. (check) 3/26/12
Fill 90 w/ RODI water and add salt, mix for 24 hours (3/27/12)
Move livestock 30 miles with 50G of old water. <- not looking forward to that. check (3/30/12)
Transfer power-heads and light and 8.5g breeder. (check)
Hang light above FT (check) 3/29/12
Install vertex alpha 200 skimmer, start it up. (check 3/29/12)
Start bio-pellet reactor

And thats just the beginning.

· Toyotaholic
6,722 Posts

· Fuzzy Stick Crazy
7,385 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
wow rustl3r, you are my hero... lol.. for real congrats and good luck on the build..

i went with pukani and i love it.. you definitely have some work cut out for you.. lol tagging along, i cant wait to see how this turns out.. i know it will be great..
Thanks, its gonna be a marathon for sure. Working out the details on my light system right now. Here are some quick specs

For a 180 72x24x25H

96 LED's 48Cool White 48 RB. Due to the sucess of my current 1:1 RB to CW setup I dont plan to change a thing. 80deg lenses on all LED's

2x HLG-185-42B drivers for each color. 4 stings of 12 for the cool white (which limits the drive current to a max of 1100mA) and 6 strings of 8 for the Royal blues (current cutoff is ~780mA).

6x 4.25x16 Heat-sinks, two in parallel over each of the three openings over the tank.

All will be controlled by a typhoon LED controller from Boost LED. Ill make a box to hold out the moisture.

· Toyotaholic
6,722 Posts
Okay I need a quick course of DIY baffling. The 80 sump is already at the LFS. :D:D:D

How thick does the baffle glass need to be?

What silicone should I use?

Any assembly advice also?
There are a couple commercially available silicones that will work well that should be available at your LHS. DAP makes an aquarium sealant, Momentive RTV 108, or GE I. Just make sure they are 100% silicone and not the anti mold/mildew versions (stay away from GE II).

I would use 1/4" glass at least. I used it in my sump for my 90 g and it worked very well. I would stay away from acrylic baffles as silicone doesn't adhere well to it.
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