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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
how do i care for a RO/DI unit? how often to i need to replace cartredges, membranes??? and that sort of things? i got the Kent marina MAXXIMA 35PGD Hi-S unit and i got the flush kit, how often should i flush it?
-matt egan
 

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Yep replace when nesc. However if you only do water changes every 6 months your filter will last longer.:rotflmao:
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
LOL uuuummmm whats a TDS meter and where do i get one? i do water changes twice a month that will add up to 80 gallons per month plus about 5 gallons perday top off, i need to know how often i should flush and how often to replace filter cartredges and the membranes
 

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TDS meter measures the total disolved solids in the rodi water. You want to be as close to 0ppm as possible. I was giving my neighbor crap about his water change regimen that he learned from Derek:p. Twice a month is pretty good regimen:).
 

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you can look at inline tds meters at www.thefilterguys.biz
that is the best way to tell. When your white filters start to turn rust colored you should replace them, and r/o membrane every six months to a year depending on use but the flush kit will keep it longer. I use the flush for about 30 seconds every couple of hours of filling. Dont know if that is the "right way" but it is what I do.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
rust colored? the first stage filter was rust colored within 1 hour of use!!! i can't afford that!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
its the one that came with it, everything was pre installed out of the box!
 

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RO membrane on average should last 2-3 years. As others mentioned, using a TDS meter after the membrane will help determine if exhausted. I flush it whenever I'm around the unit and think of it. I don't think there is such a thing as too often. It probably averages out to once every 1-2 weeks. I let it flush for about 15-20 seconds at a time.

Sediments, I usually change out about every 2-3 months when it starts getting dark red. They usually are cheap so buy plenty of extra sediments to have aroudn.

Carbon, On average about every 6 months. I don't know if there is a test to know when exhausted so best just to keep a calendar routine.

DI, I like to run at least 2 ( I run 3 ) DI stages with the inline TDS meter after the first one. This way you can fully exhaust the first one without risking water quality issues.

If you still planning to upgrade to a larger system as you have talked about, I would seriously concider upgrading your membrane at the same time to at least the 75gph. In an emergency situation, I would much prefer larger amount of production than a max of 35gpd. Jim ( thefilterguys ) can help you out with this. You should just need the membrane and a new flow restrictor to match the membrane.
 

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rihanssu said:
thanks alot david! i'll get ahold of fahz!
I'm here I've just been staying in the background. A lot of people give good advise and many have different whys they run their systems. You have large amounts of sediment in the Twin Cities area, iron being number one. Changing your sediment filter every three or four months is just good management and they only run $3. If your municipal water filtration system is using chlorine as disinfectant it all depends on how much water you make and the quality of your carbon filters as to how often they need changing. Chloramine is found in only 20 of 950 Minnesota municipal water systems and Cottage Grove is not one. It is a good idea to run a TDS meter for you DI and a dual DI system is better when your DI is exhausting fast. You can get a color change and low TDS reading with a single housing without all your resin being exhausted. David really has the system down and you can't go wrong on his advise for RO/DI.

Jim
 

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Fahz,

Do you agree with the beneift of flushing the membrane? I don't do that today because I thought, I probably misread, that it doesn't really help.

Also, the housings on my RO unit are white, so I can't see the condition of the filters. I can on the dual DI unit because it came from you guys.

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
mine are clear, the first filter (sediment?) turned rust colored withing 1 hour of use
 

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Dwight, IME the only one really worth seeing is the sediment one becuase of the iron issue. My drinking water R/O are all white as well. I just routinely change it every 3 months and is just fine. However, if you do want to change out for a clear, you will probably have to change out the top piece as well. The threads aren't all the same. I tried to simply just change the clear part by itself and it won't screw on.
 

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If the housings don't match just run a extra clear housing for sediment. You can also run one of your white housings empty or remove it. You can also remove one and turn a clear and connect it on your bracket with fittings and tubing lots of ways to add a clear without to much effort.

Jim
 
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