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· Premium Member
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, today was the day I was able to finally go pick up my new addition. Bought it off Craigslist for $100 site unseen. When I got to the guys house, I didnt expect what I got. Pix dont do this justice and it is dirty/needs a little work. Guy received it as a trade for some lights and his wife told him the tank had to go. Long story short, his loss my gain.

165 Acrylic tank that HAD the overflow on the side. He removed it because he said it looked ugly. I'm wondering if I can put one back in if that's even possible, maybe build it in there. The P/O also painted the back of the tank but it has started to peal and come off, so I would need to clear it and repaint prior to moving it in the house.



There were two 1" holes drilled in the bottom for the return lines that he also covered with acrylic. Debating if I should remove that and cap with plugs or would that hold.


The tank looks a bit rough now, but its dirty and been sitting for a while. I need to finish closing or capping off the last hole (where the overflow was on the side) or use it if I can get an overflow in there, I can probably build one to be honest.....

The stand, that's another story. He built it and he tried to build it to withstand the weight I guess. Used bolts and I'm sure you can see them in the pic on the stand. Bit of an eyesore, but Japonicus has his build thread that I can snipe info on making it a real stand when I'm done with it. So much to do and I hope I dont have to make 212,629 trips to the local hardware store like fsureefer did, specially when its an hr drive to the nearest and back!:lol:

Oh yeah, Also included was a Megaflow sump & Rio 1700 pump, both new (pic not actual sump but one I found on the net that looks identical.)

and a 40 gal Sea Reef sump and a lot of the piping/tubing for them, plus about 20 lbs or LR rubble and other stuff I still have yet to discover.

So before I go all GUNGHO! on this build, should I be worried about the holes that were drilled in the bottom, will they leak in the long run? That's the last thing I need is the salt to break down the acrylic concrete and bust flooding my computer room. He used "IPS WELD-ON #16 Solvent Cement for Joining Acrylic". I see some people have used it for tanks, but is it enough to hold over time? I see people saying 40 is better.

Well, been a long day, sun wasn't in my favor and now I'm tired as heck. Time to go watch some TV and hope tomorrows a better day:blob:
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Forgot to mention. I also have 150+ lbs of LR sitting in my 110 gal waiting to go in this tank. Did the Raw Shrimp method and have coraline growth on my rocks. I also plan on making a DIY PVC tube tunnel around my tank for my eel since I'm not going to be doing much of a sand bed. Going to be using fsureefer method for this. Plus I figure it will help add structurability to my rocks so they don't tumble and fall.

While I was doing all this my dog decided to have some fun. Figured it was worth a laugh.


(OK I dont know how to post vids but click pic for it)
Now time for some TV.
 

· Hydro-Dynamic
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13,156 Posts
Hey Quick, great find ya got there!
I'm not understanding the holes you're concerned about.
I know you said returns, but pic worth 1,000 words. Just not mine...lol
Cuz I still couldn't answer if I did understand. Did he drill the holes?
Are there any teeny tiny cracks around them?

If it were my tank, and the holes were on left and right sides...
(not having a pic to go by)
I'd make 2 1" overflows for them. Most 150's have that, so it would
be a benefit over a single 1" drain for a tank that size 165. If I had
2 returns (1200gph) I'd Y them off making 4 out of them with loc-line
fittings, adapting as you go. This is if the returns were centrally
located and/or I wasn't making overflows with them.

I understand your concern about leaking, which is what I was
talking about when I said I couldn't answer even if I knew.
I would guess, that if you really wanted to do away with those
holes permanently, to leave the cover, go underneath and cement
as well. Like a plug/patch for a tire. You have both. Good that he
oversized the covers, rediculous that he covered them.

As for the paint...that aint glass, and should not have been painted.
Good luck be with you. Tenecor gives you the option of black or blue
acrylic, solid, for the back. When I asked which would work best
for SW, they said personal choice, but most people opt for the black
as it makes things 'pop' more. We'll see. I like your idea on the eal tube
and supporting the rock for tumbles sake. But are you, and this may be a silly question having an eal, but are you gonna keep coral? Everybody
tells me to ditch the bio-balls, as they're poor at breaking nitrates down.
So do a search for "ditching the bio-balls / bio balls", and start your
new sump from there.
Oh I see you have FOWLR as a tag, so no coral. Still get nitrates unless
you used a fluidised filtre with rust...GFO

Stand looks structurally sound I guess, only
you can tell that. I'd support the back the same as the front though.
And tie the bottoms together if they aren't.
 

· Hydro-Dynamic
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13,156 Posts
Oh and, Lifereef sells acrylic tubing, sheets, and cement for
making it all work. Lifereef has been making sumps and skimmers
for 27 yrs, and I trust Jeff Turchecks input on what to do with
acrylic. Got his # in my cellephone 303-978-0940, http://lifereef.com/
or email [email protected] I'm sure he can help you build your overflow,
even routing the slots if you like. 7 pm is a good time to reach him.
EST CST MST I dunno. And it wouldn't hurt to ask about the paint on the back. I'm sure he'd want to know if oil based or not. Ask him how to remove what's there. Worse comes to worse, you may be able to get some thin
sheets of acrylic and put in the tank "welding it" (cement) for entire
perameter. Of whatever colour you'd want.
gee that's a big tank :goldfish: how thick is it all?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
OK let me see if I can get this all in one. The holes that are on the bottom were either pre-drilled on purchase or done with the proper tools as they don't have any stress cracks or anything. There wasnt a 2nd one on the other side, but I think when Im done there will be (2 overflows are better than 1). Im not sure if the pix are showing up for you but I did have a pic of the one hole that was covered.

It's not the best but I have to wait til a lil later to get a better one. I think its either 1/2 " thick or 3/4". There's already a pre-drilled hole up by the left side overflow so I will be using that for a return line. Maybe mirroring another on the right side as well.

As for the hole thats already covered, I will be doing the cement plug you mentioned. Better safe than sorry. It is an eyesore that he covered them, as I was planning on doing a BB tank and this just makes it a bit more difficult aesthetic wise. So now Im going to have to do a shallow sand bed about 1/4 inch thick OR, create a cave out of the PVC DIY rock like fsureefer did to cover it up. I still need to find out how big in diameter an eel gets on avg (may not go snowflake after all, but it will be an eel). Thinking either Jeweled or chain, Zebra is nice and docile though.

The paint, I cant do anything about what was done but I will be removing some of it off and repainting (dont want to scrape it and scratch the tank). Most peels off with my nail. Ive seen the black and blue backgrounds and I prefer the blue (and this was already painted blue) although I can do both and shade the light blue, fade it to dark and end black on the side that still needs painted. Some backgrounds shade it horizontally I can do it vertically. Still deciding if I want to or not. I guess its fade from black to blue.

This tank is the FOwLR, my 110 will be coral. As for the sump, I DO NOT want Bio-Balls. Can I put Chaet up there and let the water trickle though it instead of the balls or does the chaet need to be soaked at all times? Debating if I should just sell this sump all together and use the 40g instead (my first idea since my skimmer is VERY tight in there, leaving no room for LR). The 40 would need to be repaired as they drilled it and when putting the inline pvc, cracked the side of the tank. Still have more fun stuff to do lol.

The stand....thats going to be fun. Sturdy I say yes, but not pleasing to look at. At least its just a shell and not fully built with bolts sticking out. I am going to have to change the back side of the stand to make room for my overflow piping as where it sits now, the stand is in the way. Let the adventure begin!
 

· Hydro-Dynamic
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13,156 Posts
You don't have to do a sand bed if you don't want to.
Sounds like ur as picky as I am. I'm sure the rockwork
will hide it. + it's near the back. + it's acrylic and will
have something growing on it in time. 1/2" acrylic?
Oh to be so lucky. I jealous
 

· C'est la vie
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4,191 Posts
Yes!!! A build thread :thumbup:

Regarding the hole in the back I would try to have 2 overflows, 1 on each side. I think if you want to seal the hole, I would get a bulkhead fitting, run a piece of PVC through it and cap it in the tank. I just wouldnt trust a piece of acrylic placed over it like in the pics. Also, paint thinner might take off that paint.

I would sell the sumps and use your 40g, or haev the sump empty with just a skimmer. There is really no need for LR in the sump when you will have a lot in the tank.

Nice dog by the way! He looks so happy in there, mine tries to eat the hose :p

Cant wait for progress!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Yeah I'm going to have to do something with the holes. If I do the overflow the stand frame will interfere so trying to figure a way around that. As it is the top of the tank is as tall as I am (5'6") and going taller won't work well. Are you saying for the sump just have a skimmer no LR or chaeto? Maybe I'll understand after some sleep. Bed time for now.

Btw she was curious on the tank and tried to get in it when I was hosing it out. Guess she thought personal pool.
 

· Hydro-Dynamic
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13,156 Posts
Yes!!! A build thread :thumbup:

Also, paint thinner might take off that paint.
Petroleum products are warned against. Even glass is porous...
Yes a build thread indeed!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Yeah I was worried about using something that might weaken the acrylic. I know in a few months its not gonna matter with coraline covering it, but Im kinda anal about it. I still have to decide what Im going to do about the overflow hole and tank stand. Where it sits now, the overflow hole comes out right where a 2x4 is on the stand and if I drill a hole in the stand for the piping, I would basically be drilling straight through a 2x4 post.
So my options are A: Break down the stand and move the back posts. B: Fill overflow hole on bottom and drill one on back and have the line go out the back of the tank instead of bottom.
 

· Hydro-Dynamic
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13,156 Posts
Judging by your pics, one of those 1" holes that are covered up
are left of centre, but not close to corner. Close to where the
2 different "boards" come together underneath. If you build overflows
there, there's not reason they HAVE to be in the corner, but I'd
make the overflows from same colour the back will be.

Afraid of same with your 40g cracking. I'd not drill myself, but move
the support. Is it one centrally located support? Using deck screws
you'd want nearly 2" of thread into the stud. 1.5" may do with
2 at top and bottom. But if you're confident drilling, and the drill
should be at a different angle for acrylic than typical 59* (118* total)
Again ask lifereef about drilling acrylic. Jeff told me the standard angle
will draw the bit in too fast, and Nates telling me, hole saws will melt
the acrylic. You'd think you could do it with a mechanical old fashioned
crank drill without melting it.

Ahh, found good reefkeeping article on it >> http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2002-04/jg/index.php
it says for a bulkhead, hole saws are fine, backed with wood stock
whilst working it!

5'6"...? You know you're gonna fall in that tank one day...:funny:
Using a ladder/step stool, better be sure of that stand.
I'm worried with my present one, my Father in law will fall into
it one day. I've seen him grasp for it more than once when he was losing
his balance. And I do not trust my current stand to withstand such a dilema. Even though I made it from rough cut oak 1x2's, it just has too
much sway when I clean my glass aggressively and the waves make the tank sway a little.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Today when I got up it was a beautiful day. Nice and overcast, cloudy and the sun was hiding. Perfect day for a vamp like me to go out and do some work during the day time (Allergic to the sun, I DONT SPARKLE!!!). So I go out, take my measurements for the overflow line, the housing for the overflow itself and headed into town to get the goods. First stop was the acrylic, put in the order for 2 pieces 5 1/2" long 29" tall 1/4" thick for the housing of the overflow. $50 later I was out the door back to Lowes to return the sheet I had got yesterday that was too short and too thin. Also returned the PVC fittings that were too small for the bulkhead and went hunting for a bulkhead I could use.

LOL ok, so I drove all over today, even did the Lowes thing yesterday trying to find something that would work. Ive been all over town, to 6 different hardware stores before I decided to call around. Called 4 more places and no luck. Took a detour to a stereo shop to find about getting some mids/tweets installed in my Vette tomorrow, then headed home 5 hrs later still no bulkhead for my tank.

Got back home and started to go to work on my stand before the rain came in. We actually had to move one of the back corners 4x4 to be able to drill for the overflow hole. So now 3 corners have a 4x4 and the back left corner has the 4x4 along the back side. It was the only way to be able to drill the stand and have the piping from the overflow come down. By the time that was done it had started to sprinkle and my hand was throbbing (torn tendon).

I had the tank sitting on the grass so I shoved the 2" PVC line for the eel hidey-hole in the overflow hole and started filling the tank to see if there was any other leaks I would find (minus the gaping 2" hole for the overflow. 165g later, the tank was full and seemed like no leaks (couldnt quite tell for sure as it had started to rain by then and everything was wet lol). Meh tomorrow is another day hopefully no rain then.


I still need to figure what to do with the painted back that is missing. I dont want to scratch it and I might just kinda sand it down with really fine grit sandpaper and repaint it blending the old with new. (Yes I know its a water hose, but Im testign it for leaks.)

So I come back in the house, sat there tonight and Google'd where to buy a 2" bulkhead. Then I remembered the dude that sold me the tank said he took off the Overflow cause "It looked ugly". So I figured I'm going to look through the stuff he gave me in the sumps. :doh: Guess what I found! The Bulkhead for my tank. So tomorrow I can go back to building it as this was the last piece I needed before I could test the tank for leaks. I know Im Portuguese, but DAYMN I feel stupid! Why couldnt I have found that 3 days ago, my tank would be about running by now :(

Time to go relax and put some cortisone cream on my sun burn!
 

· Hydro-Dynamic
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13,156 Posts
I likes a cloudy gloomy day, me and it get along just fine.
Vette, soundin good I bet. My Alpine component system's stashed away
in my closet in a walnut cabinet I made for it with a door on the
front. Looked pretty cool in my 76 cougar.
Did they put 427's in the '63 vette? Or did that start in '65?
I had a 455 rocket take fire at a gas station with 50' + high
flames. Never found the cause. Trans was winding, no speed.
So I stopped and called my Dad, and whilst on the tele, I saw molten
metal dripping neath it in a rain puddle. Next day trans fluid looked fine.
Actually had the high beam switch on the foot board, and horn in a
rubber ring inside steering wheel. '69 Olds 98 LS, A/C spit snow.

Glad ya found the bulkhead b4 you ordered one. Can you replace the rubber "grommet"?

Like the idea of sand stripping the paint. Is it safe to paint? I don't know.
Do you prime with water based primer to avoid the same problem later?

Can you get a 2x4 into the 4th corner, if not a 2x2?

Dragon software might help tendon. Speak text / it types it.
 

· Hydro-Dynamic
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13,156 Posts
:doh: <- hand slapping head emotion

I think she was breathing again.....
Huh?, Oh...I'm the bubbles' pin. I know I know, I am so
paranoid. Ask anybody I work with if they know anyone that's
paranoid, and all fingers would pt to me. I aint never seen a spot of
ground that was even with no lumps, bumps mole tunnels roots
sticks rocks ect. Stress with that much water, I, I, I worry.
if I didn't have any worries, I wouldn't have a good day
So I'm havin a great day...grinns. I heard my tank stressing just carrying
from kitchen bar to my stand. Now I'm worried
 
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