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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I placed a RDSB in my sump. At first my corals just got darker in color. Now some have turned from purple to brown. Blue polyps have a brown/yellow appearance. Its the only thing different aside from a new RO/DI unit. Could this be caused by the RDSB?
 

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it could very well be. browning is generally caused by phosphates in the water column. DSB are great at absorbing phosphates, nitrates, and some others, but they can also leak it back into the water column.

anytime you have a sand bed of anykind you will have some phosphates in the water column. a really big skimmer will help in keeping it down, but expect some anyway.

when running a tank with a sand bed, and bright colours are wanted, then high powered lights will be needed to keep the zoax under controll and allow the other colours to express themselves.

G~
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I'm not seeing any increase to any algae growth...got the powerful skimmer and powerful lights...just not sure what to do...the skimmer I have running 24/7 . I try not to leave the MH on longer than 3 hours because they seem to be more detrimental than a help. Should I decrease the amount of sand? Just wait ? The corals are healthy looking with good polyp extension, just have no color other than shades of brown and a brown/yellow from the purple and blues that were there without the sand bed.
I originally put the sand bed in because the purple and blues were fading...so now not sure what to do....any suggestions?
 

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hmmm, I dont know if I would have done that viv...adding the RDSB because colos were fading. There were other probs in your system that still exist as you can see. IME, purple and blue SPS are a lot easier to go to brown than the other colors, dont know why but that is what I see in my tank.

I would remove the DSB, and check your RODI water with handheld TDS, how often do you do water changes? Maybe boost the freq and % changed.

Browning can also be do to low alk, so make sure your Alk is good, make sure params are STABLE. Dont change too much too fast as it will only make things worse.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Pulled out the RDSB. Hopefully the corals will color back up, I guess time will tell. As far as my water goes, I change out a bucket or two, every two days, every other weekend 100 gals (tank total is 459+/- a few gal). Evaporation is replaced with RO/DI as needed into the sump via float switch. TDS measure 34-35 in , 0 out. New RO/DI...its filling the canister much quicker with ?colloids? than the previous system I had...so maybe the other system wasn't giving as pure water as I thought. Parameters are fine. But I do not grow corraline for some reason...there is none in the tank to begin with and the rock turns purple and pink but not encrusting coralline like I've seen others have...theres none on the glass either....doesn't really bother me anymore, I use to want coralline but I can deal with not having it...I don't have algae, sometime I get a film on the tank glass that could probably become algae if left undealt with, but as soon as it appears I clear it with my magnets...Do you see issues with my tank---please let me know, I thought the corals needed the RDSB because of lack of nutrients in the tank...maybe its the lights but I had raised them and they still got lighter....I can't seem to put a reason to my difficulties so really if you see or know of something....please let me know:) !
 

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no corraline growth is also an indicator of phosphates in the water column. i just learned this one first hand also.

i got a ORP meter and it helped me see the changes in water quality. i was not using it with ozone. i just wanted the clearity reading. when i first put the ORP meter online it was showing 220. i cranked up the skimmer and got it all the way up to 320. at this point my corraline/corals started growing. i have since had a few fish deaths/murders can not tell if they were a rogue starfish or not. but they plummeted my ORP reading down to 240, that was a week or so ago. the ORP readings are starting to go back up again. i am now getting in the 270's. i have done nothing different as far as maintenance.

i am starting to think an ORP meter is a good thing to have in a BB tank. without it you really have no idea how clean your tank water is. in DSB tanks you have algae to help you out. not the case in a BB tank.

so far the ORP meter has been a helpfull thing for me. i would like a whole years worth of watching it though before i will really suggest that it is a much for a BB tank. right now there are far to many variable to take into account.

G~
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
You know I really am not getting why if I have orthophosphates why I would have them...I know my measurable phosphates are not there....my skimmer is for a larger tank than what I have...I do feed alot, basically because its a BB and the skimmer and circulation take it out, but maybe this should be cut back? I use RO/DI and do replace evap. with same as well as water changes and bucket changes of the water too.
Do you think I should be investing in an ORP meter? All my troubles always come back to phosphates, but I'm really not sure at this point what is the best way to deal with them.
I'm beginning to wonder if its not coming from having the tank in the basement which at times has damp floors due to the ground water table around my home. I have had floods (rain) but usually just a damp cement floor. I run a dehumidifier to take wetnes out of the air when I get a damp floor (not a pleasure with the tank in the same room-tends to cause tank evaporation that much faster) but it does get rid of the dampness. Do you think this could be some of the phosphate problem?
I never got any type of phosphate media control as I was more concerned that this might lead to more of a problem than I already had...what ya think? Nothing is horrible but it sure could improve.
 

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make sure you clean that ORP probe often geoff, as it can also lead to lower readings if dirty ;)

Viv, what about your alk, is it stable? what about pH, stable? I wouldnt worry too much about calcium for now, but your alk and pH must be stable, and you must get your phosphates down. How do you measure phosphates, a Hannah colorimeter? That is really the only accurate way of measuring it, test kits out there for phosphates simply dont have good enuogh resolution to tell you phophate levels to the hundredths decimal.

All i know is, I am using zeovit now and its been working for me thus far. You just need to find out something that works for you, and stick to it ;)
 

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yep, i clean the ORP meter once a month just to be sure.

getting the hang of a BB takes a bit. it is not the same as a sand based system. i has taken me over a year to get a hold of things.

it would not surprise me to find out that it has taken a year to get all of he phosphates out of the LR.

G~
 

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Sand and rocks are your problem here. You should cook your rocks or remove most of them. 1pound for 10 gallons is enough for bb tanks imo. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
ok, went to test the water, which now is very concentrated because the RO/DI clogged!!!!! This is only after about a week of using the new system. I did have extra filters around so changed them out....this is gonna be a problem if it clogs in little over a week!!!!!!!!!!
I would say I'm down about 50 gals in the sump. The ph is high at 8.6,
Ca at 500, Alk 22!!! Concentrated? Geesh! I'll test again when the sump fills again...corals are ok, they've got polyp extension- unless this is gonna be a last hurrah.....
 

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Sorry to Highjack but I have a couple of questions.....What is an ORP meter and how much are they? What exactly does it tell you, and where do you get them?

Thanks
An ORP meter is the part that has the computer program to identify and check orp readings based on mv. The probe that comes with it monitors Redox potential. That is how "clean" the water is.

But ORP does not measure just how clean the water is always. Orp detects many different things in the water.Such as oxygen, bromide, chloride. It is very confusing and scientists have not really determined if ORP is an acceptable way to monitor or get any clue as to what is being measured.

Typically most people use orp montors to measure how pure the water is. Especially when combined with ozonizers. Its almost imperitive that orp be monitored with the use of ozone. Otherwise the water may become so oxidized(what ozone does) that nothing will live in it. So we use orp to monitor the effectivness of ozone. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
got water parameters back to where they belong...nothing seemed to suffer at all...my water is a pain right now, so I'm just a bit frustrated...I took out the RDSB but the corals haven't changed back to the original blue polyps and purple skins...thinking about adding some xenia for phosphate control, and it might be nice to see some movement in the tank... somehow I need more movement and I'm not sure that I really want to add more fish....just a little nervous to add LPS in what is now strictly SPS...but truthfully it just looks like a bunch of very small fuzzy sticks on some rock-not quite the dynamic tank I have in my head...
 

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it will take a few weeks for things to start coming back. keep the skimmer cranked, you will slowly start seeing the colours change as the skimmer is removing the organics from the water column. it may also take a bit of time for the LR to purge all of its nutrients also.

G~
 

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care to elaborate on using xenia? is this something you will grow in the sump in place of the rdsb? isn't there a good chance that the xenia could crash and wipe out your whole tank?
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Well, theres a thought. Would be just what I need right now....my thought was to use the xenia to harvest the phosphates. The xenia I was thinking of using in the main display, not the sump. I was thinking of putting some to the far side of the tank, not with/on top of the SPS corals. I've had blastos' with the SPS and they've done fine...open brain also...I wouldn't put mushrooms in there....I've never owned xenia, but thought this might be a fun way to harvest the phosphates and have some movement in the tank also......why the good chance that the xenia could crash and wipe out the whole tank? I've seen mixed tanks-but have never gone there....love to hear thoughts on the idea though...
 

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don't add xenia ! while it may pull p out should it "crash" all of the stored up nutrients including p will be released back . it will mostly not survive anyways once you start getting the nutrients down . if you are seeing peoples mixed tanks with xenia growing great then guess what ! the tanks still have more nutrients than they would care to admit to .
viv , just keep working with what you have , get the nutrients down , and things will come back around though they may not be the same exact colors as before you may just be surprised as to what colors do return .
 
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