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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I found a 15 gallon and 10 gallon tank people were throwing away and I want to try to make a propogation tank out of them. I am going to try to drill them myself because I figure I could use the practice and if I ruin it, no worries. Here is my plan I drew up, not exact but can some of you plumbing and stuff experts let me know if that looks right?

Also, where can I buy acrylic to make the overflows and stuff, and the correct silicon to seal it up?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks Toad! I forgot to mention the first time that I have never done anything like this before w/ plumbing, so if it is embarrassingly wrong, don't feel bad about telling me, I won't be offended at all.
 

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Hey Matt - Just a reminder - see if you can ask the people that were throwing the tanks out if they ever medicated them.....check for copper residue before loading in any corals........ just some food for thought.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I thaught of that, the people have moved and I can't get ahold of them... I am pretty sure they were freshwater setups and I don't think they were exposed to copper, but I do need to make sure of that...
 

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i'd fill the tanks with water.. let them sit a few days. and pick up a copper test kit. jsut to be sure.

as for the plan, looks cool to me.

what did yo uuse to draw the plans? i really want to find some simple drawing program like that for working out my tank and hood designs. paint shop pro and photoshop are jsut not cut out for that sort of thing.. but what yo uused looks nice.. is it a hard/expensive program? can ya shoot me the name?
 

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i think it looks pretty good.

for the returns, where they are located you will need to think about a siphon starting if the power were to goe out. the water level in the tank will drop to the height of the returns. you may want to raise them up.

for glueing acrylic you really need the acrylic solvent. i have not found a place that is readily to people to find the solvent. you will need to look up plastics in the phone book to find a place that sells it, they will also sell the acrylic. generally cheaper than a HD. you will still use the silicone to attache the acrylic to the glass.

G~
 

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Hey Matt! Your illustrations are great! Getting me inspired to commence to think about, dream about a sump or fuge :D
 

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The return line, is the pipe go up to the surface of the tank. It seems that if you loose your pump in a power outage, you can drain your main tank into the fuge/sump. I would use a J-tube but I like your pump return Idea.

Ray
 

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He uses Rhino... It's a 3D modeling tool...

Actually I met Code Toad through a car forum, since we both drive the same car, (the magnificant Acura RSX Type-S) and he took a look at my website and it was pretty funny when we used the same 3D modeling tools.... It was also ironic that we're both into saltwater and reef tanks and are both members at this site....

Actually, I got him hooked up with his girlfriend...

I think I found my long lost twin.... hahaha


Jay, catch me in IRC and I can get ya hooked up with Rhino...
 

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CodeToad said:
darn I had hoped the pic would include to make reading this easier :(
OK help me out here, if I am interpreting the drawing correctly the drain line is outside the overflow and drawing from low in the main water column, while the return plumbing goes into the overflow box and tee's off piercing the wall of the overflow pushing water back into the water column. Is this correct?
Why would the drain not be into the overflow segragated area so that it draws from there rater the main tank.
Doing that will only allow water to drain down to the bottom of the overflow slots and then maintaining the tank at that leve, whereas the water trapped in the over flow(much smaller volume) will only drain down to whatever level the drain line is..
Personally i would just run the return from pump up and over the back of the tank to a spray bar or a manifold with as many return openings as needed. Each pipe that dips below tank surface on the return line should have a 1/8 or so hole drilled just below the water line to act as a siphon break if the return pump shuts off. This will avoid sucking out more water than wanted, esp if the retun fittings are lower than the overflow slots.
It appears from the drawing that in a power out situation, the majority of the tank water will drain back into the sump and have a lot of disaster potential. If this is a design you are considering using on a 75, you would prolly draw out about 50 gals if power dies.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Hey Doug, the drain line is inside the overflow, but I can see how it may be hard to see that from the picture. Thanks for your input though, I understand what you mean.
 

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OK Matt it was a bit vague from the projections. Does the over the top and returmn manifold make sense. The reason I dredged it up and asked for clarification is I want to archive it, but I didn't want it to confuse someone not familiar with the ideas invloved :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I followed what you are saying, makes sense to me. The only thing I still dont fully understand is if you drill holes in the return line, wont water spray out of them when the pump is on?
 

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No its only a 1/8" hole in the piping where it goes just under the surface assuming your return fittings, nozzles , oer whatever extend below the surface.
That way if the power is off the water only drains to the bottom of the overflow slots then cant go any farther there.
The lowering water level exposes the tiny holes which is enough to let air leak into the line breaking the siphon stopping water from returning back the the pump line :) Hence the name siphon break. If the retun nozzles are extended 6" into the tank or you have a deep spray bar without it you will suck a lot of water out of the tank
 
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