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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok so here's a quick rundown of the tank/plumbing. Oceanic tech 45. I'm using one hole in the overflow as a drain, the other as a return. Used the supplied megaflow kit that came with the tank for the drain. In the sump it's T'd off into two drains, one for the skimmer chamber, and one for the fuge. Returns are a mag5 and mag7, both through scwd's. Right now I'm testing to see if one drain can handle both return pumps so I can avoid running both returns over the back of the tank. I just moved and had to ship my chiller to myself and it won't get here for a few more days, the mag7 runs that. I will be building a bigger sump out of acrylic, but my last tank broke last week (as some of you may have known) so I need to use as much of my existing equipment as possible so I can get the new tank setup and transfer the coral/fish from the rubbermaids they're in now asap. This is why I used the megaflow kit that came with the tank instead of making my own.

Now onto the problems. I'm familiar with how overflows/megaflow kits work. There are a crapload of bubbles coming out of the drains, which of course makes a lot of gurgling noises. It's doing this with both pumps running and with only the mag5 running. Because of the scwd in the overflow box, the drain sits a little crooked, but it's still sealed. If I raise the riser tube, the gurgling/bubbles in the sump get worse and the "cascading" sound of the water going over the overflow gets quieter. If I lower it, the opposite happens as would be expected...louder cascading, less gurgling. It seems that not enough air is escaping through the hole in the top of the riser, causing the air to exit in the sump and therefore gurgle. Am I correct in that assumption? If so, could I just drill the hole a little bigger?

Secondly, when running both mags, I need to cut back the mag7 with a ball valve. If I don't the water level in the overflow fluctuates about 1". Is this because of too much flow for the single drain, or is it also because of not enough air escaping the riser tube?
Here are the pics.













Any ideas?
 

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Certifiable Tank Driller
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Do you run the sock like that, submerged I mean? How far below the surface of the water is that pipe going into the sock? Running the pipe a bit deeper may help.

If you can replace that cap in the top, I'd start drilling it out a bit bigger to see if it improves. With a 5 & 7 on a single 1" drain you're probably close to the limit of what it can handle, even with the sqwd's taking considerable flow away.
 

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I would increase the hole diameter on the top of the drain. Lose the 90* fitting as it appears to be making the 45* after it go uphill, that will cause a backup in the line. It looks like you can get away with just 2 45's. Run the drain pipe 1-3" below the surface of your waterline. Good job on increasing the drain from 1" to 1.5" that should have helped some. Raise the drain pipe as high as possible while maintaining surface skimming.
Did you mod the SCDW to increase water flow?
Eddie
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Goldstripe - The drain pipe in the sock goes about 8 inches into the water. I was prepared to have to use both holes as drains, but I've heard quite a few people say that they are under rated as far as what they can handle, so I figured I'd give it a try.

Racerw - I only increased it to 1.25" because I figured it will still only flow what the 1" bulkhead can handle, and I'll be making a new sump within a month or so, so I'll have to re-do the dains under the tank anyway. I haven't modded the scwd's yet because I wanted to see what they could do after I got my rock and coral in this bigger tank. If I need to mod them I'll just buy another and switch them out one at a time, modding/cleaning them as I go. I really want to be able to stay powerhead free though, so we'll see how it goes. Although I've been dying try a Koralia. I've got plenty of extra pvc fittings so I'll try getting rid of the 90 if enlarging the hole in the riser doesn't work.

My chiller also came earlier than expected so I'll plumb that in as well. The bulkheads on it are said to be 1/2", but they look more like 3/8". Kinda stupid considering PCI recommends 500-700gph through it.

On a side note, I'll be stopping at Rob's tomorrow to pick up a few things, so I'll have your bulkhead, sans pvc unless you want me to glue a piece in since I've got plenty of 1" pipe. Like I said I live right by your shop so if you're there I can drop if off anytime, otherwise I can bring it to your house as well.

Thanks for the help guys, I'll post some results when I find them.
 

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I understand about wanting to stay PH free. One of the reasons I have two 3600 GPH pumps on my 150 tank, lol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Well I've been tinkering with it for the past 4 hours and I'm right back at where I started. Enlarging the hole worked minimally, but the sump is still out of control with bubbles. I didn't even try getting rid of the 90. I just went on to trying both holes as drains, but that won't work because two dursos won't fit in the overflow box. The fittings on the megaflow durso are 1.25", so I'm going to rig up two 1" dursos quick to see if they will fit and pray for some good luck. Otherwise it looks like I'll just have to deal with copious amounts of microbubbles and niagra falls for a sump. :cry:
 

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you could always rig up the smaller drain as a constant siphon and use the larger drain as the emergency. the noise would alert you that the emergency is working and that you need to fix something. A straight siphon will not have any air in the line thus no noise and as long as it's emptied below the waterline in the sump, minimal bubbles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Is that the Herbie method? Because I tried using both as drains without the tops of the durso (just two straight pipes) and it was much worse.

With the method you mentioned, how do you keep the top of the main drain below the surface of the water? Just make sure the pumps put out a little more than the single drain can handle?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well I'm just going to use one pump and get powerheads. One hole for a drain and one for a return. I made my own dursos out of 1" pipe and was able to fit two in the overflow, which fixed the loud overflow problem, but it made the bubbles in the sump much worse. If I need to use the chiller I'll just feed it from, and return it to the sump. My only two other options were the Herbie method or stockman standpipes, both of which only address the noise issues of the overflow, and I'm guessing they would do the same as the dual dursos and make the bubbling in the sump worse. I don't want to spend any more time keeping my coral in rubbermaids, nor do I have the time or energy to try every method, considering the circumstances.

Thanks for the help guys, I'll get some pictures when everything is finished. :)
 

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Bare bottom, or sand?

I would do one or two Koralia 4's for flow. Low wattage, easy to hide, and won't need service often/ever, due to there open design.

One of my guys has 6 Koralia 4's discreetly placed in a 110H.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
SSB. I was actually going to pick up two from you probably sunday or a day off next week. Although I was probably going to go with something smaller, like the 1, 2, or 3 since I'd be using two. Also so I didn't kick up the sand bed. I was thinking one placed lower in the tank, and one half way up, both on the back facing forward. Do they sell the deflectors for the smaller ones?
 
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