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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was trying to explain some of the plumbing basics without drilling to a friend and decided its much easier to do with pictures than words. I know I would have loved to have seen a basic plumbing layout when I was trying to learn, so I figured I would post it up here while I do my best to explain. Any of you pros out there feel free to correct my errors!

Note: All stands and supports are not shown.

First picture: Overall setup. Water flows into the overflow box and is siphoned with a U-Tube into another box behind the tank, then down into the sump/fuge, then pumped back into the tank. The spray bars can be made at different lengths or angles, this is just for demonstration.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Second: This is a closer view of the overflow. The water is swept into the slits in the overflow in the tank itself, then siphoned into an overflow box behind the tank where a baffle is set up to ensure that water will always be on both ends of the U-Tube to maintain siphon during a power outage.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
The water goes down the overflow into the sump/fuge area. The baffles are set up to give area for a fuge and reduce the bubbles pumped back in the tank. The baffle setup here is just to give an example, I'm sure its not all that great. The return pump pumps the water back into the tank.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Here is the overflow area with some water in it to try and illustrate what is going on here a little better. Remember to drill a hole right below the water surface on each return line so that if power fails, the water will only go down to the lowest point, the overflow box, and not the bottom of your return lines.
 

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Looking good there Matt. :beer:

The only concern I have is the baffle arrangement in the sump. I kinda threw together a diagram that would probably work just as well without the need for as many baffles or 'waterfalls'.
Each time you have water spilling over a baffle you'll get a waterfall, which will create bubbles, (unless it's only a very slight drop).
I also find that the 'under-over-under' arrangement on bubble trap baffles works better than 'over-under-over', due to the waterfall effect.

Anyway, here's the diagram description... do with it as you wish. :)

The chamber where the overflow enters the sump works on the same countercurrent principles as a skimmer... the bubbles rise back to the top while the water is drawn off the bottom where it's hoped there will be the least amount of bubbles.
The fuge wall right before the exit to the return pump chamber is shorter than the entry wall to the fuge, so you don't get the waterfall effect and the water level stays the same in both chambers. This forces the bubbles to the top by the time they've exited the fuge and hopefully there won't be any left in the water by that time.

One other thing I noticed is you'll want to make sure that the nozzles on the return spray bar go under the water at least an inch, otherwise the velocity of the water will create whirlpools of air above the nozzles and they'll begin blowing bubbles around the tank (words of experience here).

One last thing I thought I'd mention, is you don't need as many fancy bends in the return line, just run it up the side of the tank and then 90 it over the lip, and then 90 it back toward the other side of the tank (so it's like an L shape, but hangs over the lip of the tank). Basically just cut out the part in your diagram where it 90's to the left and then curls back around to the right.

HTH.
 

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In case I lost ya with the last thing I was talking about, here's what I mean in picture form (sorry to hack up your cool diagram).

P.S. The diagram I came up with in the last post was completely 'off-the-cuff', so don't take it as an 'experts' opinion or layout. :D
It was just an idea on how you could do it a little differently. :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Cool, thanks man :) I follow what you are saying. The nozzles for return also were just drawn that way to demonstrate, they deffinately need to be deeper. The tubing also, the return tubing was the last thing I made, so I kinda had to snake it around to make it fit, but I'm glad you drew in there how it should be so people can see. Thanks again :beer:
 

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And don't spray the return water right in front of the overflow...

You want the overflow to skim the top layer of watter off the surface... If you break the sutrface, you are pushing the organics back into the water column....
 

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Reefer Addict has great ideas here. i would like to add for clearification. if you notice his baffles compared to yours. he kept the distances the same between the baffles and also betweek the raised baffles and the bottom of the sump. you want to keep the velocity of the water consistant through the entire baffle system. in your pic the baffle height was much larger than the distance between the baffles.

the slower the velocity the greater the chance the bubbles will be able to evacuate from the water. now of course this always a problem due to the smaller sizes of the sumps we like to use.

G~
 

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Great pics, I wish I'd had them a couple weeks ago. OK stupid question, as my plumming should be ready to go on tonight. Do any of you with HOBOF glue or silicone the overflow line into the back box, or did you just put it in there and it's stayed? Trying to avoid and unfortunate accident/flood.
 

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CodeToad, cool diagrams. What program did you use to make them? How long did it take you to create them?
 

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Absolutely awesome, definatly a keeper for the archives, seeing it makes it so much easier to explain to someone who's not seen one .
Any chance you might be able to do similar layout on Durso?Stockman stanpipes, hopefully someone else will jump in and help out like on this thread. Thanks guys :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thanks guys :) I did use Rhino 3d. It took me maybe an hour maybe less I wasn't in a hurry. I have been using that CAD software for a while now though so I know my way around OK. Doug1, I would be more than happy to make up some more stuff, just let me know what you want. Chances are someone will have to explain it to me how because I'm no expert plumber, just trying to learn :)
 
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