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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
It's is not even that cold but I have tracked down the problem. My pipes are wrapped in insulation but it does not cover the joints. They put 2 90 degree elbows togethor right in the access panel on the north side of the house :bigw:

So would it be effective at all to simply "great stuff" all the way around the joint?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Great stuff is a brand of expanding foam for filling foundation cracks, sealing windows, etc.

There is a wooden panel that covers the access hatch, and it has stryofoam insulation on it. But there is a section where air passes under the siding and then up and over the access door. It does not fit flush and cannot be made to do so. The joint that freezes drops below the cinder block foundation and is hanging into this area where the air passes over the panel. So it gets more exposure than anywhere else, is not insulated and with 2 elbows any ice that forms can easily get caught up
 

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Carpe Noctem
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I wouldn't use great stuff. If it freezes again you will have trouble getting to the pipe to un-thaw it. I would just wrap and pack the joints.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I wouldn't use great stuff. If it freezes again you will have trouble getting to the pipe to un-thaw it. I would just wrap and pack the joints.
Wouldn't "un-thaw" be freezing :D

Yes, the messiness and the fact that I can't easily remove it was a concern. I have been known to get a little cavalier with great stuff ;)
 

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Carpe Noctem
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Wouldn't "un-thaw" be freezing :D

Yes, the messiness and the fact that I can't easily remove it was a concern. I have been known to get a little cavalier with great stuff ;)
Sorry... Hop no sleepy so good:(

:rotflmao:
 

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Retired Wanderer
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We stuck a light bulb in a drop light housing at the barn to keep the hose warm. It works great.

There is a section of pipe wrap to unthaw the big pipe if it ever gets terrible.
 

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I had to re-do most of my pipes a few years ago (well water clogs up the inside, and shut-off valves). Luckily I have an unfinished basement. I replaced with PEX, instead of copper. Many building codes that require pipe insulation will waive the requirement if you use PEX. The only down side is that it is UV sensitive, so you cannot use it where it is directly exposed to sunlight (inside applications are fine.)

Of course, fiberglass is a good solution as long as you keep it dry. Once it is wet, it is useless.
 

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A light bulb does work great, used on emany times in the past

You could build a styrofoam box all around it for insulation
Big enough for a light bulb socket & some spare room
I've used heat tape wrap in the past too
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
So that pipe seems to be doing OK. But the one to the washer and dryer are frozen up. No prob, I will just thaw them out with a blow dryer. So I get under there and I don't have enough extension cord. I borrow one from accross the street and come back. As I crawl back under the house I notice... that room is an add on and is seperated by a foundation wall. So I crawl out and look under the deck. There is an access panel to the house... but the deck has latticework all around the base with no access. I go to the spot it will be least noticable and kick it in. It is old lattice work so there is no way I can remove it w/o destroying it. I crawl under my deck with a blow dryer and a flashlight. I am belly crawling with my belly in snow and my back on boards till I get to the access panel. They nailed it shut before building the deck and the deck's frame covers it partially. :mad:
 

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The light bulb in a trash can with the hose at our barn worked now down to -3. I threw my work gloves in there with the hose now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
THe problem remains I cannot get into the pipes without kicking in a panel that I am not sure I can get another one into that spot. Actually with as low as the boards go I'm not sure I can squeeze my tubby but through the hole :jester:
 

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I've got the REEF rash!
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Get a welder and attach the ground lead before the frozen area and the other lead after the freeze and turn it on and it will thaw it but watch you don't warm it to much that will melt the soider.
 

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Get a welder and attach the ground lead before the frozen area and the other lead after the freeze and turn it on and it will thaw it but watch you don't warm it to much that will melt the soider.
You forgot the "kids do not try this at home" disclaimer. That is far beyond the EZ bake oven technology of my light bulb.
 

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All the people I know here are kind of.... um... yuppies. If I was back home I could get a hold of a dozen welder but here, not so much.
I drive two Bimmers and still use a light bulb. Yuppie only goes so far then sort of goes out the window when the trough is empty at nine pm with an outside temp in single digits.

It will cost 50 bucks but last forever. A Milwaukee heat gun heats copper pipes really well and I would choose that over the welder.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
But would that work when I may be 10+ feet from where the ice is? The problem is I really don't know where in the line it is I am pretty sure it would be in the inaccesible section. Would it be ruining soldered joints before it thawed a section 5 feet away?
 
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