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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, so I'm down to the last of the big questions before set up begins. The tank that I'm setting up is a 72 gallon bow front (all glass) with a 30 gallon sump. You know the type This is a reef ready tank with 2 holes in the bottom and the nice baffle in front of it. The problem is that there is only "2" holes. the holes are 1 1/2" diameter. after the builkhead is installed the drain is 1" dia (un obstructed) This is fine if I was using both of the holes for the overflow. But I was planning on using one for the return. I know this really limits my overflow amount. I would love to have the back of the tank drilled in the corners for return plumbing. That would be a cool set up BUT, I'M SCARED TO DEATH TO DRILL THE TANK!!!! and of course the LFS will drill it but with no gaurentee (not that I blame them). The question is.....is there any type of "nice" over the back set ups available that I can purchase for the return?? I can build one for each side out of PVC but that probably won't look as good as something designed for that purpose. I have lots of room in the canapy to cut out for something to go over the back. Please give me some ideas so that I can use both 1" holes for return.
 

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There is nothing wrong with one overflow. Whats the issue?
I have a LeeMar 100G reef ready system and 30G sump with a single 1" overflow and 1" return and its been flawless for almost 7 years now. I can get right at 900 GPH through the overflow with no problems.
You do not want high flows through your sump anyway, you stick with 3-5x the display volume through the overflow and return and make the rest up with powerheads, wavemakers or a closed loop.
 

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I'm a total newb, but that's why I am hear to read and gather info and see what reefer's who know what they are doing use and do.

The overflow and the return need to be balance correct ? as in about the same flow out , as flow in.
 

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The overflow will balance itself with your return pump rate, you don't have to do anything. You install a standpipe in the overflow, something like a Durso, Stockman, Hofer Gurglebuster or many others found in the DIY threads then leave it wide open with no restrictions and it will do whatever your return pumps feeds it as long as the pump is sized correctly. By that I mand no 2000 GPH pump if it a 1000 GPH overflow and standpipe. 1" is more than sufficient for 800-900 GPH and there are many pumps to choose from in the 800 GPH range after head loss.

Take a look here for a nice tutorial on sumps and overflows and how they work.
http://www.melevsreef.com/allmysumps.html
 

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The overflow will balance itself with your return pump rate, you don't have to do anything. You install a standpipe in the overflow, something like a Durso, Stockman, Hofer Gurglebuster or many others found in the DIY threads then leave it wide open with no restrictions and it will do whatever your return pumps feeds it as long as the pump is sized correctly. By that I mand no 2000 GPH pump if it a 1000 GPH overflow and standpipe. 1" is more than sufficient for 800-900 GPH and there are many pumps to choose from in the 800 GPH range after head loss.

Take a look here for a nice tutorial on sumps and overflows and how they work.
http://www.melevsreef.com/allmysumps.html
cool thanks for the feedback.

Yes that site rocks, I found that site before I stumbled upon TRT
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I would be thrilled if one - 1"dia is enough for circulation. What I have been reading is that 1" will only alow about 300 gph at gravity feed rate. Please correct me if i'm wrong!!!! With all due respect, I would like a couple of more opinions before I feel comfortable. But I Really hope you are right!!!!!!!
 

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A single 1" drain is more than enough for filtration in that size tank. The flow through the sump is for filtration and should be about 3 to 5 times the tank water volume. It is not necessary to blast a whole lot of flow through the sump.

Circulation refers to movement of water within the tank. This needs to be 30x to 50x (or more) the tank volume and is usually accomplished with internal powerheads or wavemakers.

It is not cost effective or easily accomplished to have all the water movement a reef tank needs provided from just the flow between the tank and the sump. Additional powerheads or wavemakers are a must.

A single 1in drain provides about 600gph of flow. This is what the standard reef ready tanks are rated at.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well, that is good news. (that's why I asked) I wasn't trying to accomplish all of my water movement without powerheads. I already have those and planned on using them. I was just concerned that I was not having enough water draining to the sump. So, I assume that I don't let the water just spash all the way down into the overflow to the bottom of the tank right? I should extend the pipe up to where it is just below the "teeth" in the overflow. Then the overflow area would fill up and spill into the pipe. Right???
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Perfect! Thanks for the tip. I can definaltely make that!
 

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If it is not tempered, you can just as easily drill it.

http://www.thereeftank.com/forums/f76/how-to-determine-if-glass-is-tempered-139474.html

http://www.reefsanctuary.com/forums/reef-chronicles/56067-nstiesis-75g-gallon-peninsula-3.html

http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1725398



I will also say that I ran a 65 gallon for over a year with a single 1" drain. It is not necessary to have to drill or to have an overflow box.

I chose the bean animal design on my current setup.

http://www.beananimal.com/projects/silent-and-fail-safe-aquarium-overflow-system.aspx
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Oh. I know it can be done. It's not a question of IF it can be done. BUT....one mistake and I'm out big bucks to replace it. With the answers I got on this post I think I'm gonna just use the tank the way it was designed.
Thanks everybody for all your advise!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
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