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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
anyone ever tried using a HOT filter unit as a powered overflow... benefits for this would be , no loss in suction and no flooding in the event of a power failure. What i mean by using it of coarse would be taking out all the filtration media and drilling for bulkheads in the bottom.. ideas, suggestions, or plain out rejections fine too..LOL
 

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Not totally sure how you are talking about tting it up but generally a powered overflow isnt going top work. For one you would have to match the return pump perfectly to the filter pump. Not easy in ay sense plus over time they will slow down at unequal rates due to several factors such at calcium deposits etc. With an overflow you want the return pump to push water into the tank and the overflow will drain exactly what is being pushed to the tank.
I would say use you time for more fun stuff! Invest in a quality purpose built overflow if you go that route. Just not a workable idea IMO.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
anyway to drill it and not have to totally tear it down? what i mean is leave like 10% of the water in it along with the sand?
 

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Or if you dont want to drill get an overflow set up that has a divided outer box. It wont loose siphon in a power outage and will start all by itself. I had one on my first tank and never floded once. Except for the skimmer I had...but thats another thread!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
do you have an example of this overflow BAC?
 

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at the end of the day unless you can drill the tank you need a hole at the bottom of something so that gravity can work and the only other way is an overflow. To stop a flood you need redundancy!!! so you need two overflows. For instance my autotop up hs built in redundancy like you wouldnt believe

My house water from the RO unit fills into a holding tank via a float switch - if that breaks the holding tank overflows into the drainage system

the top up itself runs two pumps on two totally different systems each with two float switches.

If you truely want to stop flooding you need to think of every possible scenario and never rely on a particular thing to do its job.

My 2c
 

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I have pics at home but wont b there for a couple of weeks. Basically the outer box that the U tube dumps into is divided into two chambers. The first chamber is where the u tube drains to. The second chamber has the bulkhead drain. The divider should be above the half way mark form botom to top of the box. How it works is this, when the power goes out the chamber with the U tube in it never loses wate below the divider. The U tube goes below the divider. This prevents loss of siphon. When the tank starts to fill again the level raises because th u tube starts to flow again thanks to gravity and away it goes.
Check with out sponsors, there are plnty of them on the market. Mine was from True-View.
I never had any issues with it and ested it several times.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
the problem is power outages, with most siphon style systems, they won't just restart them selves once the water level drops below the surface skimmer. which in turn means when the power returns the pump in the sump will start and the tank will flood, not to mention more than likely burn up the pump. My area has random power outages for some unknown reason to me (i think it's the age of the neighborhood where we get our power feed from). anyway, even if i have a backup overflow i would still need redundant float switches and relays...etc, etc etc. which in turn can fail in its self (saltcreep, corrosion..etc...) i would prefer to have the tank drilled, but if i am going to tear it down to do so, i may as well buy a 90 gal tank that is already reef ready
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
thanks Motorslave and bulk.. i appreciate the help, BTW... with technology you would think that you could actually express what you mean by typing it out, and it not sounding like you're blowing off ideas...LOL i truly do appreciate the help you guys are giving me
 

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hmm - maybe your return pump is too powerful??

Sometimes when water has to travel through a siphon it takes a few seconds to build up speed and hence the correct flow rate although it shouldn't take that long that your tank overflows. Do you have any pictures of your current overflow box??
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
no current overflow... that is why i am debating this... my return pump has a flow rate of 450 gph max @ 0 head, which i calculated to be around 250-270 gph flow @ 4.5' head. the CPR units are like that design, i just never realized the way they really worked with that extra baffle in there. i would also purchase the aqualifter pump... or i may just use the TOM's Aquatic unit as it comes with everything including the pump and it has a built in excess flow return..that way if the overflow is flowing too much it will return to the tank instead of flooding the sump, and if not enough flow i can throttle back my pump.. this is the pump http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_ViewItem~idProduct~HD09202.html
and this is the overflow http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_ViewI...lies_Overflow_Box_External_Boxes~vendor~.html
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
what i would really want is a coast to coast overflow with the tank drilled... the problem is, is that started this project with bad information, and the tank was pretty much setup before i started asking the right people what the real world of reef keeping requires. thanks in no part to some of the other forums out there
 

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im trying to figure out how that overflow box works - it looks to me that it starts a siphon when power is on and automatically stops it by opening up air valves on the top when power is lost???

I'm still at a loss though because it would need to restrict the overflow somehow because it only has a 3gph flow rate on that pump which would not be enough to "prime" the siphon.

But I guess if they say it works it works. Personally I would look into a simple'r siphon overflow and save yourself some dollars. It really doesn't need to be that involved.

The ol KIS theory - Keep it simple.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
the pump is really an air pump.. it pulls the air out of the overflow tube so the siphon doesn't break, same thing that the CPR units do, but the only major difference is the excess flow return in the overflow and not depending on your sump return pump...if it fails... at least that is what i get from it anyway... but i dunno
 

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make sure you have siphon breaks in your return line though. Holes drilled in the return line just lower than the water line in your main tank so that air can get in when power is lost and you dont then have a siphon from your return line into the sump - that'll definately flood your sump
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
now see that makes the world of a difference to me in how all this works.. ireally appreciate it.
 
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