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it really depends on how your skimmer is set up(and possibly how your return is set up) as to which works best. On the three tanks i have running right now i have one that is U/O/U, one that is O/U/O and one that is U/O/U/O. They all succeed.
One thing that always works is a U/O/U if you can somehow isolate the water coming out of your skimmer and make it all have to go over something before cpntinuing on in the sump.....that didnt make sense prolly...ill go take a pic...i need to take a couple ofo others anyway.....





ok here.......you can see how it kills all the bubbles here but they disappear even sooner if the water level in the sump is a lttle higher...i robbed the auto top off of this tank a couple of days ago........

that little section where my mr-2 dumps is a 4 1/2 x 4 1/2 square. On the far side of it is both my tank overflow and skimmer infeed. You can actually do kind of the same thing with any skimmer simply by putting a wall up where the return and the skimmer is forcing the water to go over the wall before continuing on in your sump and going through a U/O/U, its not totally necessary sometimes but soing it that way WILL destroy all bubbles everytime......or at least all bubbles coming from your skimmer.........
 

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Cabana Boy
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
basically the drain from the tank and the skimmer will be on one side and the return will be on the other. I might add a center section incase I need to send anyone to time out or if I decide to put live rock in there

was thinking something like this

 

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Perfect. I would suggest putting a couple of pieces of eggcrate that fit perfectly under the two "under" baffles if you are going to have critters in the open part of your sump...it will help keep them from getting in your return pump.

Also, go ahead and make those "undera" baffles go to the top of the sump...or at least near.....it will strengthen the sump so it will be less likely to crack should you lean on it too hard. (not that IVE ever done that and dumped 20 gallons on the floor).
 

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Heres my first sump design. Worked perfect with never a micro bubble. It has an extra baffle but boy was it a good sump! Doug has it now. Remeber to not put the baffles too close togetehr or they wont work as a bubble trap as they will cause the velocity of the water to be too fast fopr the bubbles to rise.

Robert
 

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motorslave said:
Heres my first sump design. Worked perfect with never a micro bubble. It has an extra baffle but boy was it a good sump! Doug has it now. Remeber to not put the baffles too close togetehr or they wont work as a bubble trap as they will cause the velocity of the water to be too fast fopr the bubbles to rise.

Robert
yeah..IMPORTANT note there about the spacing. I remember putting the weld on to baffles too close together.......:doh:

A great trrick to making sumps if youre not 100% confident in the design is to secure your walls in place temporarily and running the system before ever hitting them with weldon. Sure some water is going to slip by but you will be abel to tell if what youve got going is going to work or not before you do something that is more than a little bit difficult to change...........

of course not so important if you are using silicone and glass vs acrylic but it can still save you some backtracking.........


There are many ways to skin a cat as far as sumps go but im not familiar with any easy ways to remove acrylic walls that have been weld on.....ed in place
 

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motorslave, thank you, those are the best pics I've seen to explain a sump. My hubby just said "well sure, I've got 1/8" plexiglass"... woohoo! Now I still need to figure out what kind of a pump I need to get.
 

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No prob, glad it helped! For the return pump, figure out what the skimmer will process (gph ) and then get a pump that is no more than that. Also, the water level in the skimmer chamber is set by thee first baffle. That will depend on the skimmer pump if it is internal (submersible).

Robert
 

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I have a Coralife super skimmer, 65 gallon version. It says that it is either/or (hob or sub). Would it say in the owners manual, or does anyone know off hand what the gph is for this skimmer?

*sorry to hijack!*
 

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depends on the pump used. go off of the pump specs. I prefer to run a little less through the sump than the skimmer pump is rated at. That way there is almost a re-circ through the skimmer. No sense in returning un skimmed water to the tank!

Robert
 

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hmm... well, the pump on the skimmer says "Rio 1100", does that help?
 

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Well, it doesnt hel;p you! Rio's arent the best pump you can have, they are known to melt down and cause real problems in a tank. I would research that model, find the gph rating and get a different brand of the same or a little higher gph. Make sure to get the same size inlet and outlet. Check out Mag pumps.

Robert
 

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It means that with nothing adding presure to the pump it will flow 382 gph, as you increase the hight the pump must push the water up it will decrease the flow. Having to push water through a skimmer will in efect increase head( increas the pressure the pump sees) so I would say your skimmer probably sees somwhere around 250 to 300 gph flow.
 

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Yup, so when you look for a return pump, take into consideraation how much vertical lift the pump wilkl be pushing. If, for example, you have 4 feet of lift (head) then get a pump that will flow 250-300gph at 4 ft of head! Most pumps provide a flow chart so you can figure which model you need!

Robert
 

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ooooohhhhh, gotcha! Thanks for the explaination, I learned something!
 

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Your welcome, that's what were all here for, to help each other have a good time and great tanks.
 
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