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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 55 gallon Saltwater Standard glass tank and stand with 2 Hagen hang on back filters and a Red Sea Prizm hang on back skimmer. Lots of live rock and Aqua Medic Ocean Light T5/Metal Halide Series for lighting. I have about 15 corals, mostly soft corals, polyps, and mushrooms, but I do have an awesome fire coral, a bubble coral and a green hammer coral also.

I just bought the small Aquaripure at aquaripure.com but I wanted to know if anyone had any experience with these. It looks pretty well constructed but I'm not sure it's gonna work. It sure would be nice not to have to do so many water changes. It takes me 2 hours every week just to do a 35% water change and I still have nitrate problems. Plus I have been fighting algae for months now.

I will keep you posted ...
 

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:hismiley: Welcome to TRT.

I sure wish you would have come here before spending 200 bucks on this. There are much easier ways to deal with nitrates in my onpinion.

What do you have in the tank in the way of fish? How often and how much do you feed?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
I forgot about the fishes! I have 2 tangs, 2 clownfish, 2 dwarf angels, two gobies, a hawkfish and a small cleaner wrasse and I like to keep 'em fat! No SKINNY fish here!

So EC ... other than water changes what do you suggest to keep nitrates down? The nitrate filter thing was just too tempting for me. If it works like it says it does then I am pretty sure I will be glad I got it. It seems really SOLID built and high quality. I am impressed so far.

Oh, I just tested nitrates and they are currently around 40-60 ppm as far as I can tell from the test (Aquarium Pharmaceuticals.) I am going to do another water change tomorrow but it will probably still be 20-40 ppm. I'll keep you posted ...
 

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Perfeshunal Hikk
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Pulsing Xenia, Clams, Aiptasia, there are some other natural critters that process nitrates. What the Aquaripure reads and looks like is a coil denitrator and you can build your own for about 20 dollars (and thats being extravagant). Does the lid on it screw off or simply glued on? I am curious if it has 1/4" tubing wound up inside it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
On the back of it it says DO NOT OPEN, etc. The lid seems on there really tight and I don't wanna mess it up.

I don't think it's a coil denitrator but I'm not sure. On the website it syas, "And unlike other similar nitrate filters Aquaripure's nitrate filters use proprietary and patent pending technology to maximize it's efficiency and effectiveness. Aquaripure's filters all have a tremendous internal surface area for denitrifying bacteria to grow and thrive, much more than the competition. For example, it would take more than ten typical "coil" denitrators to equal the nitrate removing power of Aquaripure's X-Large denitrator."

I had a friend that made a coil denitrator like is on the internet and he said it kinda worked a little bit but if you set the flow rate faster than 1 drop per second it stopped working and he eventually got rid of it. I thought about making one but figured it would cost about $30 including everyhting and take several hours and may or might not leak or work so I decided on this. It says the flow rate is 3-4 drops per second. We will see ...
 

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I have run nitrate filters before. They are kinda the old school way of doing things. They can work, but they become more of a hassle then they are worth. (they don't quite work like they say they do) You don't want to over feed them because hydrogen sulfide can be produced. Under feeding them will render them basically useless. The amount of food needed for optimum efficiency will depend on the amount of nitrate produced in the system over a given period of time. The amount of nitrate a system produces will be constantly changing making it very difficult to find the perfect feeding schedule. The longer you run one the more of a headache they become.

Your nitrate problems are caused by the tank being over stocked. I'm not trying to be critical, because I have a tendency to do the same thing. Just think about it for a second. You have a standard 55gl tank, lots of LR, corals, probably a sand bed, and 10 fish. With all that in the tank, it can no longer hold 55gl's of water. Probably closer to 35gl. With all those animals producing waste, it doesn't take long for them to pollute 35gl's of water. Adding a good sized sump or refuge will make a huge difference in your nitrate issues. A large rubber-made tote from Wal-Mart would work. Anything to increase your total water volume. Upgrading the skimmer so that the waste is removed before it can be broken down into nitrate will also help tremendously. These two things alone can allow you to cut way down on your water changes and nitrate issues. You may want to think about reducing your fish population to cut down on nitrate production. Two tangs can not survive in a 55gl tank for an extended period of time anyway.
 

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Im a beginner here, but if you simply added a small refugium and allowed the macro algae to grow would that not almost eliminate the nitrate problem?? i know if you leave your light on excessively the live rock will rapidly grow Caulerpa nummularia ? i think this the right name. which removes a lot of nitrate. i think spending 12 bucks on a 10g tank and then the sand and rock is a lot cheaper than the denitrator you bought. im new to this so maybe someone who actually knows what they are talking about might be able to collaborate...or they might just say im an idiot..lol
 

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Im a beginner here, but if you simply added a small refugium and allowed the macro algae to grow would that not almost eliminate the nitrate problem?? i know if you leave your light on excessively the live rock will rapidly grow Caulerpa nummularia ? i think this the right name. which removes a lot of nitrate. i think spending 12 bucks on a 10g tank and then the sand and rock is a lot cheaper than the denitrator you bought. im new to this so maybe someone who actually knows what they are talking about might be able to collaborate...or they might just say im an idiot..lol
:funny::rotflmao: Nobody is going to call you an idiot. I run algae for nitrate and phosphate control in any system more than about 50gl.
 

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Perfeshunal Hikk
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On the back of it it says DO NOT OPEN, etc. The lid seems on there really tight and I don't wanna mess it up.
No, don't open it up. The smell would make you puke all over yourself if its cycled and mature. They don't want you to open it to keep from having to recycle it and to see how trivially simple they are built.
I won't spend 200 dollars to take one apart but I will lay odds its a coil denitrator in principle.

Pulsing Xenia in a sump setup would do wonders for you. It would add water volume to the system (as EC pointed out) but the pulsing xenia would help with the nitrates. And then when the Xenia outgrew the sump, you could trade them in to the LFS for store credit.
 

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Im a beginner here, but if you simply added a small refugium and allowed the macro algae to grow would that not almost eliminate the nitrate problem?? i know if you leave your light on excessively the live rock will rapidly grow Caulerpa nummularia ? i think this the right name. which removes a lot of nitrate. i think spending 12 bucks on a 10g tank and then the sand and rock is a lot cheaper than the denitrator you bought. im new to this so maybe someone who actually knows what they are talking about might be able to collaborate...or they might just say im an idiot..lol
A fuge could... but not likely a small fuge. Not sure how large of one it would take but it has to be a certain size of relative to the DT and bioload to offset population. You must also have enough light for the macro to take up that much nitrate.
 

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Perfeshunal Hikk
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or they might just say im an idiot..lol
You should hear what they say about me when I am not around :)

No, nobody is going to call you an idiot. Maybe a Dumm Hikk but not an idiot :nuts:

Yes, a fuge can help but it isn't a cure all for elevated nitrates. Proper husbandry and maintenance is the cure for nitrates. And if you have read some of the crazy ideas I have posted here about, you would know how ironic it is for me to say that.
 

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i have just read a LOT of stuff since i decided to join the hobby. so i dont have any real knowledge or experience yet. i feel like im in for a lot of trial and error..and will rely on on trt along the way. besides ya never know if you dont ask.
 

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i have just read a LOT of stuff since i decided to join the hobby. so i dont have any real knowledge or experience yet. i feel like im in for a lot of trial and error..and will rely on on trt along the way. besides ya never know if you dont ask.
Hey, its always gonna be a little bit of trial and error though you can learn from others errors:cool:. Its a little bit of trial and error in taking advice :lol:. But TRT is probably the safest forum to ask a question or make a comment and not get flamed. Or at least get an apology for being flamed;)
 

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Perfeshunal Hikk
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mgloop, you have the right idea. Read, read, and then ask questions. And, believe it or not, start answering questions that you have a decent idea of the answers. You will either have learned it or people will point out the misunderstanding and you can learn what you didn't have figured out. I learn a lot more from sticking my foot in my mouth and being taught right than simply by asking.
 

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You should hear what they say about me when I am not around :)
Oh no, we don't worry weather you're around or not...we'll say it right to your face! :D

Seriously, as others have said...hang out around here a bit and ask all the questions you want...using this forum as a sounding board for ideas before you implement them is a fabulous resource...I've been around the hobby for over 20 years...I still ask questions, still learn new stuff, still stick my foot in my mouth, etc!
 

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For the last 5 months my nitrates are zero, but I do not know why. Up until 5 months ago I always had a detectable level of nitrate. The only reason I do not know why I have them is because of a few variables.

#1) My tank is almost 2 years old (this april) and maybe it has finished its complete cycle and can handle my live stock

#2) I recently added a reactor in which I change monthly. I have 1/2 cup carbon, 1/2 cup nitrate remover stones, 2 tbs of ferric oxide

I also had a diatom issue until 1 week ago. Up until one week ago I was battling diatoms for over 4 months. I believe it was the water. I was using walmart RO.

But I changed alot in the past week. I changed my PC bulbs WITH NAME BRAND Coralife bulbs (a huge difference in color over the ebay junk I bought 6 months prior for 1/2 price, which was probably part of the problem), I added a koralia 3 that points right into my live rock to kill dead spots and I bought an API DI filter. I was going to do RO/DI but since i'm in an apartment that wouldn't work.

To say the least, I am one week out and I have zero diatoms. It used to be within 3 days my tank was covered.

I know its slightly off topic, but I am just posting in case in might help someone else.
 

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Perfeshunal Hikk
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Broc, the Walmart water was the major part of your problem. Diatoms are typically silicate driven and Walmart water isn't exactly the cleanest water to use. I used Distilled Water from Walmart before I got an RO/DI unit but it was the bottled, not out of the machine.
The nitrates coming down are probably because of the nitrate stones but I have never used them so don't know how well they work or not.
The bulb spectrum has an impact but its a tangential impact where the better lights help the tanks critters do there jobs better and that results in better water quality.

Jnicho, you aint right man!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I agree that my tank is extremely well stocked but the tangs seem to get along ...
I thought nitrate filters were relatively new ... not old school ...

Anyways, if it works I think it will be well worth it, I mean that's the bottom line right?
 
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