With the help of Geoff's Mantled Monster Site and
John J. Geisler DIY at: http://jjgeisler.com/reeftank/diy_kalkwasser_reactor.htm
The Materials
John J. Geisler DIY at: http://jjgeisler.com/reeftank/diy_kalkwasser_reactor.htm
The Materials
Nielsen Reactor
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Dry fit
I used only 1/2" parts for the circulation, water supply and kalkwasser outlets, as well as the top vent.
1/2" clear PVC, 1/2" elbows, 1/2" adapters (FNPT x slip), 1/2" NPT x barb. I used smaller barbs for the RO water supply and kalkwasser discharges (elbows).
I used PVC glue only, no primer, no cleaner. My cleaner was just sand paper. For the top vent, I'll use a plastic needle valve I was saving for my DIY CO2 reactor (in the meantime). I have an extra cap if I need to modify this later.
I used only 1/2" parts for the circulation, water supply and kalkwasser outlets, as well as the top vent.
1/2" clear PVC, 1/2" elbows, 1/2" adapters (FNPT x slip), 1/2" NPT x barb. I used smaller barbs for the RO water supply and kalkwasser discharges (elbows).
I used PVC glue only, no primer, no cleaner. My cleaner was just sand paper. For the top vent, I'll use a plastic needle valve I was saving for my DIY CO2 reactor (in the meantime). I have an extra cap if I need to modify this later.
Attachments
Gluing the pieces....
Don't be shy with the glue. You can always remove excess.
I test the assembly with water after I finished. No leaks.
I reamed the holes at the edges to give a conical shape in the inner and outer edges. This created space for excess glue to fill and create a tighter seal. The 1/2" adapters were sanded with the shape of the 4" PVC adapter. I placed sand paper over the 4" adapter and the grabbed the 1/2" adapter. With one hand fixing the 4" and the sand paper, i grabbed the 1/2" adapter with the other hand and worked it to the desired shape (Does this make any sense?)
Don't be shy with the glue. You can always remove excess.
I test the assembly with water after I finished. No leaks.
I reamed the holes at the edges to give a conical shape in the inner and outer edges. This created space for excess glue to fill and create a tighter seal. The 1/2" adapters were sanded with the shape of the 4" PVC adapter. I placed sand paper over the 4" adapter and the grabbed the 1/2" adapter. With one hand fixing the 4" and the sand paper, i grabbed the 1/2" adapter with the other hand and worked it to the desired shape (Does this make any sense?)
Attachments
First, glued the top stub and adapter (pump intake). Then applied glue to the hole in the body and inserted the stub from the outside. You can see the excess glue working to fill all the void spaces. I remove any dripping, but don't mess with the excess. It will shrink and look better.
Second, i glued the 1/2" stub and the adapter for the RO water supply (top left inlet) like I did with the pump intake, and third I glued the clear 1/2" PVC pieces and elbow for the pump discharge. Then inserted it from below and passed it thru the hole in the body (with glue applied to the hole and to the clear PVC that goes thru the hole). Inmediately applied glue to the 1/2" adapter and to the stub sticking out of the body and glued together.
Second, i glued the 1/2" stub and the adapter for the RO water supply (top left inlet) like I did with the pump intake, and third I glued the clear 1/2" PVC pieces and elbow for the pump discharge. Then inserted it from below and passed it thru the hole in the body (with glue applied to the hole and to the clear PVC that goes thru the hole). Inmediately applied glue to the 1/2" adapter and to the stub sticking out of the body and glued together.
I did the same thing for the top RO water/kalk mix discharge, like i did on the lower input/outputs.
First, I applied the glue to the hole and to a portion of the clear PVC to go thru the PVC and then inserted it. Inmediately, applied the glue to the 1/2" adapter and glued together in place. The excess served to fill the gaps between the hole and the tube. I also worked the edges of the hole a little larger (conical) to create a space to be filled with glue, and get a better seal. (This is a one shot deal, so be generous, tho do not exagerate
).
First, I applied the glue to the hole and to a portion of the clear PVC to go thru the PVC and then inserted it. Inmediately, applied the glue to the 1/2" adapter and glued together in place. The excess served to fill the gaps between the hole and the tube. I also worked the edges of the hole a little larger (conical) to create a space to be filled with glue, and get a better seal. (This is a one shot deal, so be generous, tho do not exagerate
).Attachments
Note that at the bottom of the threads in the 4" PVC adapter, I created a Oring seal with white silicone.
I made up the cap, hand tight, and applied some petroleum jelly (vaseline) to the threaded cap. Then, I filled the gap between the threaded cap and the ledge in the adapter, creating a ~1/4" oring. I let it set 24 hrs and unscrew the cap, leaving the oring in place. I tested it and works great.
I made up the cap, hand tight, and applied some petroleum jelly (vaseline) to the threaded cap. Then, I filled the gap between the threaded cap and the ledge in the adapter, creating a ~1/4" oring. I let it set 24 hrs and unscrew the cap, leaving the oring in place. I tested it and works great.
Joined
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very nice! i like the centering cardboard trick! great building instructions and pics.
now lets fill it and get some use out of it.
i was finally able to acquire some pickling lime, so i will try this instead of "kalkwasser". do you have this down by you. i have not had a chance to look at it closely. the only problems i have heard about using this is that it is not as fine as the "kalk" is. it may wear the impellers out more quickly. i am looking to see how hard it is to grind it down further. this stuff is dirt cheap compared to the "kalk". just something to look for.
again, great job!
G~
now lets fill it and get some use out of it.
i was finally able to acquire some pickling lime, so i will try this instead of "kalkwasser". do you have this down by you. i have not had a chance to look at it closely. the only problems i have heard about using this is that it is not as fine as the "kalk" is. it may wear the impellers out more quickly. i am looking to see how hard it is to grind it down further. this stuff is dirt cheap compared to the "kalk". just something to look for.
again, great job!
G~
After assembling the rest of the reactor and let the PVC glue to harden 24 hrs I tested the reactor, filling with water from the bottom to check for leaks. Everything tested ok.
Last thing I did was to glue the bottom of the reactor.
If you check the first picture, you'll notice that I cut 1" off the bottom cap for better visibility of the stirring area. I basically followed the instructions I found in the websites I posted. I guess I'll see the utility when the reactor is operating.
I glued the bottom cap and the flange as per their instructions. I beveled the top of the flange for the cap to have a better fit and bond.
Here's a picture of the final result.
Last thing I did was to glue the bottom of the reactor.
If you check the first picture, you'll notice that I cut 1" off the bottom cap for better visibility of the stirring area. I basically followed the instructions I found in the websites I posted. I guess I'll see the utility when the reactor is operating.
I glued the bottom cap and the flange as per their instructions. I beveled the top of the flange for the cap to have a better fit and bond.
Here's a picture of the final result.
Attachments
Thanks Geoff!!!Geoff said:
I ran it with just tap water for awhile. I had problems with the pump. I didn't want to glue the whole thing so that I could change impellers if necessary. But I think I'll have to do so, unless someone gives me a good idea.
I modified the pump by glueing a 90 deg elbow to the cap below the impeller, but the oring between the cap and the pump body leaks. I tried silicone, didn't work, tried teflon, didn't work. I think the only thing left to do is to glue the cap to the pump body. If the pump fails, I'll have to get a new one.
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