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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello and thank you in advance for any comments. I got into this hobby back in October of 2014 when I set up the following reef tank system.

Fluval M90 Tank 36 total gallons -27 gallon display area in front (9 gallon sump in back)
In the tank I have:
Protein Skimmer
740gph circulation pump
150 watt heater
2" sand bed
10lbs of live rock in the sump area
30lbs of live rock in the display area
4 Nassarius Snails
6 Turbo Snails
2 Peppermint Shrimp
1 Blue Tuxedo Urchin
2 Emerald Crabs
1 Frogspawn coral
1 hammer coral
1 Branched Montipora coral
1 hairy mushroom coral
1 purple people eater
1 Rose Bubble Tip Anemone
Pulsing Xenia

Current parameters

Temp - 79
Salinity - 1.025
Ammonia, Nitrates, Nitrites & Phosphates all - 0
pH - 8.2
Calcium - 400
Alkalinity,KH - 161

The above were all tested with a refractometer and reef master test kits, not strips.

I use Fluvial Pro formula salt mixed into RO/DI water and perform weekly 5 gallon water changes

All of the coral's and invert's are extremely healthy and happy. As a matter of fact the frogspawn has 10 new heads starting and the Hammer Coral has 2 new heads. The growth of Pink Coralline Algae is almost out of control.

With all that out of the way here is a little history and question. In Late January/Early February I lost all of the fish I had in the tank (2 clowns, Royal Basslet, Banggai Cardinal). I was on vacation but the person looking after the tank said it looked like Ich. So, since it is a reef tank I treated the tank as follows. Turned off the protein skimmer and ran through a cycle of treatment with Fishvet's No-Ich per their recommended directions, then allowed the tank to remain fallow for 8 weeks (with the exception of the Anemone, corals & Invert's) I have not been feeding the tank during that time except as follows: 2 days a week I add Aquavitro Fuel for the corals and once a week I hand feed the Anemone a couple pieces of raw shrimp. Yesterday I finally began the restocking process with 1 Ocellaris and 1 Black & White Ocellaris clown fish. I had the LFS order and hold them in their shipping carton for me so the fish were never placed in the LFS's community tank. I used the drip acclimation procedure for a total of 2 hours prior to placing them in the tank.

Finally, I get to the issue and my plea for help or ideas. 24 hours after putting the new fish in the tank, the B&W Ocellaris is dead and the Orange is covered in white spots and is not looking good. I hate losing fish, I am trying my best to do this correctly but am becoming very frustrated.

Any ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
When the fish were in the tank I fed them 25g of brine shrimp 2 times per day.

While fallow I only fed the tank AquaVitro Fuel 2 times per week and the Anemone raw shrimp 1 time per week.
 

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I know you don't want to hear this, but from the way your clown is now it sounds like you still have ick. either it came with the clowns or your fallow period wasn't long enough. if you let ick live with the tank then any additions will be stressful and could lead to a deadly outbreak. is there a way you can put you current clown into a hospital tank to treat him and let the display go fallow for a longer fallow period?

don't get discouraged, if anything it sounds like you have an awesome coral only tank ;)
 

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I know it's nice picking up the fish before they are put into the LFS display tank, but I will always let them keep for a short time to make sure they are healthy, healthy fish can make the extra move without a problem. The fate of the fish may have been the same if they where placed in the LFS tank.

Also now like Planesoul stated a quarantine tank would be a good idea for the clown still living. In the future it would be good to quarantine all new arrivals before releasing into display
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I do have a one month old FOWLR tank that I can move the remaining clown to (if I can catch him, lots of hiding places in the display) and treat him.

In hind sight, I probably should have done that but thought that after an ich treatment and 8 weeks fallow that it would be less stressful to put them in the display tank rather than a QT tank that has only been up for 4 weeks.
 

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i think it might have been a good call not to put him in a 4week old tank. for future the future i personally use the LFS as my observation tank. my lfs is always happy to reserve a fish, invert or coral for me, ill just let him take care of it for a few weeks, i stop by once a week to check on em. if im happy with it over a month or so period ill go ahead and take em home. it doesn't necessarily protect from stuff but at least i get to see if it has any major problems. this post just reminded me my lfs is still holding a coral banded shrimp for me, oopps, kindve forgot about him lol. at least i told him to order me one a few weeks ago lol
 

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Depending on your acclimation setup, the 2hr drip could have resulted in a significant temp difference between the tank and acclimation container. I could see that resulting in a death and severe distress within 24hr more than thinking that your tank has ich remaining and it caused issues that fast. Just my thoughts.
 

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I agree ich didn't cause the death that fast. It could be the fish didn't do well in transport.Tthat why I think it best to let the store acclimate the fish to their tank and give it time, then you can observed the fish before purchase
 

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The thing is by not allowing it to be put in the tank at your LFS does not mean the fish can't have ick. That is no way a fail safe.

As a matter of fact, my LFS runs copper in their tanks so by them adding a fish to their tank it is actually getting treated for ich.

Like others have said, the LFS is a great place to observe a fish before taking him home. Does he look healthy, is he eating, etc.

The only way to prevent bringing ich into your tank is really to just QT a fish for a few weeks and add him to a DT that has no ich in it. Otherwise, there is no fail safe and you will always be rolling the dice.

So without a QT, your next best place for observation is your LFS and of their tanks don't look healthy, find another store.

Hang in there, we have all been there.
 

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So to chime in.... I think the ick treatments advise to raise the temp of the tank to something like 80 or 90 degrees.. not 100 percent sure. but I totally agree that that would be too soon of a death for ICK.. Stupid question, when testing for the above did you read the directions on the test bottles? Like i know you need to shake the ammonia for 30 seconds... the nitrates needs to have the second bottle vigorously shaked for 30 seconds and the whole thing shaked for a minute.. then wait 5 minutes for results.... I know i wasn't doing it at first until i read the directions.ust some ideas..
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Yes I have read, and follow, the test kit directions to the letter. I have also, on a couple occasions, taken water samples to my LFS and had them test the water as well. Their results have always been consistent with mine.
 

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Sorry, that was the best guess I had.. Only other thing, I had a problem with my fresh water tank 1 time.. I used a chemical to raise the PH and within 24 hours I lost about 300 bucks worth of fish.They all had what looked like a chemical burn on them.. Started as little whit spots. But this may not apply at all. Just trying to throw some different perspectives out there..
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
No, I do not have an air stone. My son and I discussed the possibility of low O2 levels last night. The return from my sump creates a pretty good amount of turbulence on the surface so I figured that would allow enough gas exchange. An air stone is a pretty inexpensive option to try and can't hurt...
 

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I know with my 55 gallon that I now have a tight fitting lid due to previous suicidal fish, if I don't have my air pump ( for over 200 gallon tanks) cranked all the way up I can see the fish breathing heavy... if you lid is really tight it may not be exchanging enough oxegen... and I know from fish dying in the past that they turn white.. but again just trying to think outside the box
 

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How long did the LFS hold them in the shipping container? Ammonia builds up in those bags and pH drops, when you open the bag and start adding new water pH rises and increases the toxicity of the ammonia. Drip acclimation is good, but with fish that have been bagged for a long period of time it's more important to get them out and into the tank quickly. Float them to temp acclimate, dump some water from the bag and add some tank water in, repeat until salinity matches. I try not to let shipped livestock be in their bag more that 30min after I open it - and only that long if the salinity was pretty far off from my tank.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I have to take the LFS word for how long he held the fish, but by all accounts the fish were in bags for less than 24 hours. I have tried both methods of acclimation (drip and water transfer to shipping bag) I have had success with both.

I'm beginning to think that maybe, all things considered, I just had bad luck and got a stressed fish that couldn't recover.
 

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Depending on your acclimation setup, the 2hr drip could have resulted in a significant temp difference between the tank and acclimation container. I could see that resulting in a death and severe distress within 24hr more than thinking that your tank has ich remaining and it caused issues that fast. Just my thoughts.
Not so much temp, as disolved ammonia in shipping water. Never drip acclimate for more than 30 mins if the fish has been bagged for any real time (day+).

EDIT: LOL guess I should have finished reading the thread.
 
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