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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all I am just getting my 75g reef going. about a month now. I am looking to meet people in the area and get involved in a club.
-chris
 

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You came to the right place with many members in your area and out of area. You just missed our March meeting which was this weekend in Elkhart. Welcome and do not hesitate to ask anything.
 

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Student of the Reef
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Welcome to the club. There are a lot of great people in the area. Always willing to offer advice or help out if they can. Feel free to ask questions, it is a friendly and helpful board.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
75g glass
pro clear 125 wet dry
proclear mp150 skimmer
2 96w PC (retro) 1 more later
130lbs fiji live + a few tonga branch
Lots of Mushrooms (just found a tiny lavender)
Buttons
toadstool

All the corals came free on the live rock. I got 75lbs from MWC and another 55 from a guy in mishawaka. Corals from the guy in mishawaka.

2 damsels (bad idea)
yellow mimic tang
percula

just a coating of sand. With all the live rock my tank cycled in less than 2 weeks

Just got an awesome deal ona RO/DI shoudl be here mid next week gonna set it up to auto top off anyone wanna help :)


Thanks about it here is a link to some pics
http://thereeftank.com/forums/showthread.php?t=97817
 

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Welcome! With all that live rock, personally I'd ditch the wet/dry. I'm not familiar with your skimmer--how much water can it process?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The Skimmer is rated for 150g I'm going to keep it because I plan to stock the hell out of the tank with coral
 

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What kind of skimmer is it? Some say 150g but actually does not do the job.
 

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Everyone has a different preference on LR. Some people like a lot some don't. I like a lot of LR. I know I'll probably have to buy more when the 90 gets up and running.
 

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I've never been a fan of the Pro clear skimmers. If I would choose, Euro reef's all the way!

Dunno what you consider an awesome deal on the RO/DI, but I've been quite happy over the years with my AquaSafe (EBAY) RO/DI. For $60 + 25 shipping, for a 6 stage RO/DI unit, it's hard to compete.

But...that's just me.
 

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I agree with the above about ditching the wet dry system. Now you don't have to ditch the whole setup just take the bio balls out and use the wet/dry as a sump for the equipment. You have plenty of LR for filtration. I would not take all the bio balls out at once though. Take them out in stages. That way you don't distrupt your filtration.
 

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I think one problem with that much live rock in there is dead spots within the structure. What are you running for water circulation? What kind of corals are you planning on keeping?
 

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Shark bait
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I think one problem with that much live rock in there is dead spots within the structure. What are you running for water circulation? What kind of corals are you planning on keeping?
Good point Dave.. Circulation is very important for stony corals and a few leathers and soft corals.. but one of the overlooked reasons on why circulation is important (I was a victim to this) is that it keeps detritus in the water column longer - allowing to to make its way to the sump to get removed via skimmer... this is important in avoiding the appearance of cyano (which tends to appear in lower flow areas because there are more nutrients feeding the outbreak).

Now this is different than the flow rate through the sump - where you want to be a little slower so the skimmer has the opportunity to remove the proteins before they get returned to the tank...

So how do you accomplish higher flow in a tank while keeping the flow through the sump moderate to low? Well, there are two popular routes:
1. Install a closed loop
Pros
- One pump is used - normally external and very high output
- Doesn't put electricity in the tank (well, in a lot of cases it doesn't)
- Because it's external - there is less heat transfer into the tank and can also be located remotely to cut down on noise or clutter around tank)
- Closed loop - there are not losses due to head pressure (just some minor ones with plumbing friction)
- Can install unions for easy servicing of equipment without getting hands wet
- Can install valve to regulate flow through different nozzles
- Can install SQWD or OM Squirts, etc. to alternate flow in the tank
- Configurations are limited to your imagination with the right planning
- Assuming no leaks - pumping will not require priming after power outage (also assuming water level in tank doesn't drop below CL intake so no air gets in)
- Can install a variety of different nozzles for different flow dispersion
b. Cons
- Plumbing can be visible if holes weren't drilled for them in the tank - therefore unsightly
- PITA to clean inside hard plumbing
- Pumps can be heard - depending on brand and location
- A leaky pump or plumbing can empty a tank
- Pumps used for CL applications generally require more power
- Expense for pump
- Requires a little skill with PVC (but this is easy if I can do it)

2. Install power-heads in the tank
a. Pros
- Most can be but put on a wave timer (those that consistently pump flow out - some mods, the new nanostreams, etc. spin the other way when starting up
- Generally put out less heat (quantity of PH factors in)
- Generally require less electricity (quantity of PH factors in)
- Some PH allow for variable speed
- Vortech - wow... class of its own with lots of pros and little cons..
- Do not need to drill the tank
- New magnet mounts allow PHs to be mounted almost anywhere instead of solely at top of tank
- No worries of leaks
- No hard pluming required - just plop in
- A number of PHs can be modded to get huge amount of flow for relatively little more expense (search Maxi Jet Mod - MJ mod)

b. Cons
- Depending on the type of power-head, location, where the flow is pointed, how it is dispersed, attachment
- Suction cups are worthless after time.. so will require some sort of bracket or magnet for mounting
- Most power-heads have wiring in tank water - leading to possibility of stray voltage (GFIs are important for a reason people!)
- Drip loop required (just a safety reminder)
- Only one speed - unless you get the more costly power-heads with variable speed options.
- Price - Vortech in particular or other PH w/ configurations that include wave timers or flow variability
- Some type of magnet mounts can interfere with PH performance
- Most are unidirectional - points output in one direction
- Some think PHs in tank are unsightly

I think - based on cost - that modded PHs are economical for tanks 90g are under and CL are economical for 150 and over with the range between 90g and 150 being a toss up on what you want to accomplish. Now this is a general statement as options such as rotating nozzles, drilling, etc. influence cost.

Other options for higher flow include - surge device.

This is not way an extensive explanation or looks at every possibility. But IMO contains enough information to get you thinking and going off to do further research.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I have a RIO 2100 in the sump and a RIO 1100 in the tank. I plan mostly soft corals but naybe some lps in the future.
 

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I don't think that's near enough--even for softies. I would shoot for 15X turnover minimum. I have about 40X in my sps 75 gal.
 
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