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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have finally converted from fish only to reef tank and had some basic questions. i will first give everyone an idea about my setup.

I have a 75 Oceanic tank with overflow and wet dry underneath. I have a simple protein skimmer in the sump that spills excess into the bio balls in the wet dry. I am not sure of brands but will create a list tonight. I am using a Rio 800 in the right lower corner to hel p with water flow. I have left my three Perculas and royal gramma in the tank. I ahve had these huys for about 4 years now.

I have added 85 lbs of Live Rock and recently added a green mushroom and purple star polyp to the tank. Both ar doing very well so far.

The current levels are as follows - Nitrite and Ammonia - 0, KH - 9, Calcium 400, Phosphate -.25, Salinity 1.28:( , Nitrate - 0, pH 8.4. I am lighting with two 175w 10,000k metal halides. It was suggested to me not to keep the glass top on anymore so I have removed it.

It is a pretty simple set up but I want to do more. I want to add Hard corals and soft corals as well as other anemones and maybe another fish or two. No real algea problems ( 5 mexicna Turbo snails and 5 red legged hermits - Should I add more of these?

Will I need a Calcium reactor - What about using a plenum or Kalk over time. The tank has a good amount of current and the chemistry has stayed very constant.
I just want to be reassured i am off to the right start.

Thanks

KJ
:)
 

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SO far so good.

As for the Bio-balls they may become a nitrate trap. Your LR should be your filtration replacement of your biobalss. If you do remove them, remove only a few per week,

You may want to lower your salinity and your phosphate.



Kalk should be fine to keep you calcium levels in check at first.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Sorry about the slinity - The measure is 30-31 which I think is around 1.21-1.22 on the specific gravity float. i probably need better testing equipment - Any suggestions?

No bio balls for reef keeping - It is better to put LR in its place in the Wet Dry?
 

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You shouldn't need to put LR in the wet dry, the LR in the tank should be sufficient if it is in good condition(I wish mine was at the moment, right now its just green! :lol: )
 

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You asked for salinity info ;)

There seems to be an aweful lot of confusion related to salinity and PPT salt. The average Part Per Thousand (PPT) salt is what we are after. In most oceans (Red Sea Excepted) it is approximately 35 PPT. Since Salinity is related to temperature and PPT, it is only useful if you know what temperature your hydrometer is calibrated at and if you know what temperature your measurement is being taken at. On top of all of that most hydrometers (especially the floating arm kind) that you get at the LFS are complete JUNK. All IHMO of course

Here is a link to a lab grade certified hydrometer:

http://www.vwrsp.com/catalog/produc...ject_id=0009308

Part# 34627-231 Certified 1.000 to 1.070 hydrometer

w/Shipping $31.52

Here is the table:

PPT
xx 59.00F 60.00F 68.00F 69.80F 71.60F 73.40F 75.20F 77.00F 78.80F 80.60F 82.00F 84.20F 86.00F

20 1.0145 1.0144 1.0134 1.0132 1.0130 1.0127 1.0124 1.0121 1.0118 1.0115 1.0112 1.0109 1.0106
21 1.0153 1.0152 1.0142 1.0140 1.0137 1.0135 1.0132 1.0129 1.0126 1.0123 1.0120 1.0116 1.0113
22 1.0160 1.0159 1.0150 1.0147 1.0144 1.0142 1.0139 1.0137 1.0134 1.0130 1.0127 1.0124 1.0120
23 1.0168 1.0167 1.0157 1.0155 1.0152 1.0150 1.0147 1.0144 1.0141 1.0138 1.0135 1.0132 1.0128
24 1.0175 1.0174 1.0164 1.0162 1.0160 1.0156 1.0154 1.0151 1.0148 1.0145 1.0142 1.0139 1.0135
25 1.0183 1.0182 1.0172 1.0170 1.0167 1.0165 1.0162 1.0159 1.0156 1.0153 1.0150 1.0146 1.0143
26 1.0191 1.0189 1.0180 1.0176 1.0174 1.0172 1.0169 1.0166 1.0163 1.0160 1.0157 1.0154 1.0150
27 1.0198 1.0197 1.0187 1.0185 1.0182 1.0180 1.0176 1.0174 1.0171 1.0168 1.0165 1.0162 1.0158
28 1.0206 1.0204 1.0195 1.0192 1.0189 1.0186 1.0184 1.0182 1.0179 1.0175 1.0172 1.0168 1.0165
29 1.0214 1.0212 1.0202 1.0200 1.0197 1.0195 1.0192 1.0189 1.0186 1.0183 1.0180 1.0175 1.0172
30 1.0222 1.0220 1.0210 1.0208 1.0205 1.0202 1.0199 1.0196 1.0193 1.0190 1.0187 1.0184 1.0180
31 1.0229 1.0227 1.0217 1.0215 1.0212 1.0209 1.0207 1.0204 1.0201 1.0198 1.0195 1.0192 1.0188
32 1.0237 1.0235 1.0225 1.0222 1.0219 1.0217 1.0214 1.0211 1.0208 1.0205 1.0202 1.0198 1.0195
33 1.0245 1.0243 1.0232 1.0230 1.0227 1.0225 1.0221 1.0218 1.0215 1.0212 1.0209 1.0205 1.0202
34 1.0252 1.0251 1.0240 1.0238 1.0235 1.0232 1.0229 1.0226 1.0223 1.0220 1.0217 1.0214 1.0210
35 1.0260 1.0258 1.0248 1.0245 1.0242 1.0240 1.0237 1.0234 1.0231 1.0228 1.0225 1.0221 1.0218
36 1.0268 1.0266 1.0255 1.0253 1.0250 1.0247 1.0245 1.0242 1.0238 1.0235 1.0232 1.0228 1.0225
37 1.0275 1.0273 1.0263 1.0260 1.0258 1.0255 1.0252 1.0249 1.0245 1.0242 1.0239 1.0236 1.0232
38 1.0283 1.0281 1.0271 1.0268 1.0265 1.0262 1.0259 1.0256 1.0253 1.0250 1.0247 1.0244 1.0240
39 1.0291 1.0289 1.0278 1.0275 1.0273 1.0270 1.0267 1.0264 1.0261 1.0258 1.0255 1.0251 1.0248
40 1.0299 1.0297 1.0286 1.0284 1.0281 1.0278 1.0274 1.0271 1.0268 1.0265 1.0262 1.0258 1.0255

First, this is how it works. You can use a 60 F (59F) table if it is set up like this one.
1. Using the temperature of your tank, go to the column that has approximately that temperature.
2. Scroll down until you see the SG you have on your hydrometer.
3. Now move straight across to the left, until you are in the column that has your hydrometer calibration
temperature (probably 77F for fish store and 59F or 60F for lab grade).
4. Read the SG at the calibration temperature in that column.
5. Now take that reading and go over to the second column and look for that SG reading and note its Salinity. That is the
salinity of your tank.

Example:

Tank @ 81 F (or 80.6 F)_and meter reads 1.022. The 77 F column shows 1.0226 ( rounded off is 1.023). Now look at column 2 for 1.023 (1.0229)_and the Salinity will equal 31ppt.....to low. If you are looking for normal Salinity of 35 ppt, your meter at 81 F would read about 1.025. Normal salinity is 35 ppt @ 1.026 in 77 F water with the meter calibrated to 77 F, so 1.026 -.001= 1.025 for 35 [email protected] 81 F tank temp using a 77 F meter calibration _

conversion program:

http://www.phys.ocean.dal.ca/~kelle...er/density.html

If anybody wants this in an excel spreadsheet please email me and I'll send it.

Bill

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I'd keep an eye on nitrates and remove the bioballs incrementally IF nitrate becomes a problem. If you've been running it as a FO for that long without a nitrate issue, I think if it ain't broke, don't fix it.

I would like to clarify this:
I have a simple protein skimmer in the sump that spills excess into the bio balls in the wet dry.
I read it to mean that excess skimmate goes into the bioballs - but that must be wrong .... yes? If skimmate IS draining into bioballs I'd make that stop (and check nitrate with another test kit...).

Otherwise, I'd keep on doing what you're doing.

Jenn
 

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Yes Skimmate should be a waist product.

I agree with Jenn if when you remove the bio-balls do it slowly 20% a week over 5 weeks or even slower.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The skimmate does not go into the bio balls - The skimmer has a hose that takes water from it to the bio balls and the skimmet goes into the trap at the top. I have never had a big problem with Nitrates but now with a reef tank I need to watch those levels because the inverts are more sensitive to it. After I take the bio balls out, do I leave that chamber empty? Or should i put a small piece of LR in there?
 
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