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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, here goes!
Been looking in on this site for a year or more, along with others
Starting with a 40 gal breeder
Going to sump it, need to understand and deal with issues of sump as I want to eventually move to larger tank
Ive had a FOWLR tank 20 years ago, with canister and big whack of live rock, didnt really know what I was doing
Learned so much from members on this site, as well as others (this site mainly, you guys are so friendly!)
Pictures to be posted shortly
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
startup

So, got some live rock through a variety of sources, three different tanks
Added flat marco rocks for aquascaping idea
Put into a tub with low flow pump, light to start cycle
adding a bit of food every other day

Constructing a small stand, will store dry things, electrical in it under tank
This is in an alcove, open windows facing north
Nice level unit
Drilled for a herbie with small overflow from cpr
Had chips on the inside of the tank with the drilling, but the bulkheads seem to seal it up well!
Did a wet test and passed with flying colors
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Need to go, have a theater show tonite with wife
Will post later
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Painted back black to hide the flexible pipes
running the sump in a corner of the room about 6 feet from main tank
Gonna try to hide it in its own cabinet
Will go for a lid, like to do things from the top of the sump!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
so I created this large box, painted same as trim in the house, with hinged lid
Fits my 33 gal long old tank, used as sump, with piping run in through side
Looks clean with lid closed, but finding if I close for any length of time it gets pretty steamy in there
Worry about the electrical connections...
Might keep it propped open
Will put in refugium light for macro
Darkened the input end, trying for a cryptic area, will keep dark
Gonna go skimmerless for now, use reactors for carbon and GFO, see how it goes
Have an old skimmer on standby if needed
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Using a tsunami auto top off, not sure if it will work out with this smaller setup
Main pump is a jebao dc-3000, love the adjustability, hope the reliability isnt an issue
Dont need a gate valve for my siphon drain, can adjust the jebao and fine tune the output with the loc-line valve going into tank
The cabinet looks kinda hidden away when lid closed, wife likes that!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Starting to get phosphates on tester, 0.5 ppm
Nitrate unrecordable
About 4 weeks with part of my rock, in salt water, heated and lit, but now with my complete system up, added more dry rock, so expect a bigger spike in phosphates in weeks ahead
I will start with just a used flourescent coralife fixture, but plan in next few months to diy a led fixture with some cree leds I have
My plan is for a few fish, sps corals with some limited lps brain coral
Gonna go slow....
(Famous last words)
 

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Shark...fish are friends
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is the tank sitting on tile? that scares me a bit even with a 40B, just with water you are talking 300 to 400 pounds, then add rock and other stuff... I'd be afraid of cracking tiles...

for the sump box I'd drill some holes on the sides of it and run a small desk fan inside of it to help draw in fresh air and push out old air on the other side, that would help with the condensation too, and might also help with your pH by getting the old air out and fresh air in, otherwise if CO2 offgasses in the box and it stays there the CO2 will cause your pH to drop.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks, thats very helpful!
Will look at a fan in next few days

Have the entire unit working now
did a t line off for my gfo, but jebao is at max now, so not sure if that doesnt leave me enough room for error...
will be putting a diy screen on the drain that will slow that a tad, but it is a delicate dance...

Having one problem someone hopefully can help me with
Whenever I turn off my main pump, have a hell of a job getting the full siphon back on the drain line
Basically need to suck the air out to get that back
Wont be stopping my main pump if thats the case, but any ideas?
Would drilling a hole in the siphon line above water line help, currently its buried deep in sump water ?
Is it because its alot of horizontal travel for the line?
That cant be helped at this point
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Here is my GFO
Im real happy with the tumbling im getting
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Here is my GFO
Im real happy with the tumbling im getting

Sorry couldnt get the picture in
But its cool

As far as the tile is concerned, no worries
Its not something I will keep, solid underneath
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
So, its late at night (for me)
Im sitting on my couch, looking at my bare tank with the night leds on
Reading about 700 gal tanks, and guys with tanks for 40years...
And it makes me feel good!
Think Ill stick with this hobby!

Chris
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Getting a 3 degree swing in my temp, day to night
80 when lights are on, 77 in am
Is that ok, or should I raise my heaters so not as much drop at night?
 

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Watchful Goby
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Three degrees isn't horrible. It won't kill anything, but its always good to try to minimize any swings. You might want to invest in a little fan for the tank to cool it off. Maybe even put the fan on a timer so it comes on and off with the lights.
 

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Shark...fish are friends
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Whenever I turn off my main pump, have a hell of a job getting the full siphon back on the drain line
Basically need to suck the air out to get that back
Wont be stopping my main pump if thats the case, but any ideas?
Would drilling a hole in the siphon line above water line help, currently its buried deep in sump water ?
Is it because its alot of horizontal travel for the line?
That cant be helped at this point
siphon overflows commonly have this problem, it is why most people prefer to drill their tanks instead of using an over the tank siphon overflow. The only way to fix it is to drill a small hole in the top, hot glue / silicone in a piece of airline tubing and hook that airline to an air lifter pump to suck air (and water) out of your overflow and have it dump in your sump. Otherwise if your power goes out you'll have a flood when the siphon fails to automatically restart...
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks
will probably just increase heaters to raise the lower temp

I have a drilled overflow, but the full drain has a down turned fitting in the overflow, may need to drill top of that?
See pic previous
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
sorry, pic of my daughter!
 

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I have seen of people using a hole ontop of the siphon to more easily get flow again, you can limit the amount of water in the return of the sump to only let a portion of the total water in the sump be able to be pumped up to the display tank however this will cause a dry pump, to get the siphon going just suck out the airpocket with rubber tubing attached to the hole in the siphon with a valve. you can also attach a water level switch to your return pump fairly easy.. that will stop the pump and maybe the lights as well? I would imagine if my system were not running then there is something wrong.. hmm I think I just told you the outter workings of the sump I wanna make
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
will work on that this weekend
Wonder what this is
cyan or diatoms?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
tank going for a full week now, half the rock been in light and heat for a month
Getting a brown growth over lit surfaces, probably cyano
feeding tank daily with some flake food
No fish yet
phosphates at .25
nitrate 0
ammonia .25
tester is cheap variety, so not sure of accuracy
dont really care, though, cycle should be visual more than anything

Gonna do a 10% waterchange today
probably put sand in, but maybe next week as Im doing some aquascaping today
Getting macroalgae for my refuge today
 
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