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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,

I have a 55 gallon reef and my calcium is between 300 and 350...how much calcium can I add to the tank at once...I am using the Kent liquid calcium and it says to add 5 mL a day.....I have been making the addition as said by the bottle but it just seems to be maintaining my level....How much more is safe to add any advice would be great.....
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thank you for the Article that was very interesting...
it looks like I m in zone 3 My levels are 9 DKH or 3.2 meq/L and calcium of 310 PPM
and my PH is at 8.1 so it looks like to correct this I need to add Kent Liquid Calcium
Which again brings me back to my question of how much to add....I just added 5 mL again and I will recheck my levels again tomorrow...how frequently can I make changes...I usually wait a day in between doses....any other advice..


 

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you can keep adding the 5ml as directed, or you can start a drip for the Ca. the drip system is better because it dose not change the Ca all at once, but makes Ca changes over time.

now I'm not sure on the Kent Liquid Calcium, but I know some have a formula for using a drip system with them.

the other thing you can do, that might be cheaper is start using a salt mix that has a higher Ca count.

what salt do you use now?
and how much hard corals do you have.

BTW, your pictures didn't show up, you need to use the unloader function, and I think for the post unloader you need 5 posts, but the gallery should work.

your pictures show, "file:///C:/Users/JR/AppData/Local/Temp/moz-screenshot.png"
and we can't see your computer so its a no-go in those IMG :(

but try the gallery unloader then link them here ;)
 

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Thanks for all your help..I will look for the picture function appreciate your input.I have been using standard Instant oceans but I think I am going to upgrade to the reef Crystal Formula..I have the following corals - 1 lg Colt, 1 Devils Hand Finger Leather, Various Zoos and Some button Polyps as well as one un-identified Frag that came with the Colt Coral which is a smaill brown disc like hard coral....I am just starting to stock this tank it has been up and running for about 7 months before that I had a nano going and I was waiting to get my 55 gallon back up and running after I moved.

55 Gallon has a Canister filter, Marineland Reef Capable LED Lights, Sea Clone Protein Skimmer, Marineland Heater, 3 Koralia Power Heads, and a UV and a home built auto top off ...Next Steps will be to change over to a sump and use the canister to polish the water
 

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i do not think you have a Ca problem, but a phosphate problem. as your phosphates increase the carbonate in the water column will attach to the phosphates instead of the Ca causing what looks like a drop in Ca/Mg levels.

the corals you have in the system now do not need a lot of Ca. if you can keep the Ca level around 350 you will be fine as you start to get the phosphates under control. you get the phosphates under control, then the Ca/Mg levels will start to bounce back to normal.

remove the canister filter from the system. these are nitrate factories and trap detritus allowing it to rot releasing the phosphates back into the system. is there a way you can get the output for the UV to be as close to the input for the skimmer as possible? that way anything killed/broken down by the UV will be immediately removed by the skimmer. do you siphon the sand bed every time you do a water change to remove detritus?

G~
 

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Hi,

I have a 55 gallon reef and my calcium is between 300 and 350...how much calcium can I add to the tank at once...I am using the Kent liquid calcium and it says to add 5 mL a day.....I have been making the addition as said by the bottle but it just seems to be maintaining my level....How much more is safe to add any advice would be great.....
To address this adequately, what is your Magnesium? Here is the synergy of the elements/chemistry; Alk and PH work together where Alk "holds" the PH. Cal and Alk work together where Cal helps "hold" the Alk and Mag and Cal work together where Mag helps "hold" the Cal. The formula for Mag is; 3X whatever you want to hold the cal at i.e. 450 cal as a target requires 1350 Mag. Hope this clarifies thing for you.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I am not sure what my MG Levels are I need to get a test kit this weekend for it but my levels are as follows, also I can pick up a phosphate kit as well but I don't much algae so it didn't think it was phosphate...I do clean the sand bed at water changes
CA 310 PPM
DKH of 9
Salinity 1.023-1.024
Nitrate is at 0
and PH is at 8.1

I have had no issues using a canister but I clean it every two weeks to keep it from becoming a nitrate factory....I plan on upgrading to a sump soon anyway...I will move my UV closer to my skimmer and give that a try and see if it helps.
 

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Since you don't know your Mag I am pretty sure it will be below 1100 ppm. Let us know.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks for all the advice everyone...Well I tried to get a Mg test kit this weekend at the LFS and they were out of stock..however they did have a Po4 so I picked it up. My Phosphate levels were elevated in my tank at about .5 so I added a phosphate pad to my Canister as well as a 20% WC..Now I am only seeing a .05 Phosphate level so as of now my levels are
Sg = 1.024
Nitrate = 0
PH = 8.2
DKH = 8
Calcium = 300
Temp = 76 Deg F

I figure I will continue to monitor my levels and I am planning on starting to use a KALK drip for make up water but I want to get my levels right before I start Dripping KALK. I will see if I can get a Mg Kit this week and thanks for the info regarding the Ca and Mg relationship that helps out alot
 

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IO (IMO) has low levels... I switched to Kent marine much better.. I don't care for Kents liquid calcium. Your better off with bionic 2 part or a powder form, and drip it.. If you feel comfortable get some calcium chloride and calcium carbonate.. And mix your own.. I feel your magnesium is low.. Get that checked out and then go from there..
 

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IO has lower levels then the others, but that does not mean that they are low compared to NSW. all of these elevated Ca salts are designed for the hobbiest to counter the effects of phosphates in their system. both Mg and Ca will be affected by phosphates. the phosphates will bind with the carbonate instead of the Ca or Mg, causing the levels to seem low.

it is really hard to get an accurate reading of what is going on in your system if you have phosphates in the water column. i would do nothing until you get an Mg test kit. that way you can figure out the ratio. if the ratio is off then add to correct. if the ratio is the same, but both are low, then the problem is definitely with the phosphates. you can bump up both levels, but they will quickly fall again until you get the phosphates under control.

G~
 
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