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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello everyone! Some of you followed my original 210g build with a 180g sump/QT in my basement. Well now we are moving. Long story short, we couldn't miss the opportunity on the housing market and we decided to sell our house, yet we haven't found our forever house yet. Sooooo....we are moving in with family for a bit.

I have a 300g Rubbermaid stock tank, and a 150g stock tank that I'm going to use for this build. This will be in our basement, on a concrete slab. Originally I was going to make a "deck" of sorts that raised the 300g stock tank (main DT) like 2ft off of the ground, just so it would be easier to view things (I'm 6'4"). But after much consideration and talking with people I've opted to just use cement blocks (just like cinder...but cement lol). I'll stack 2 staggered layers which will give me about 16". I'm using all of my equipment on my current 210g display for this build.

Equipment I have and using:
Reeflo Hammerhead/Barracuda Gold pump
Apex system (3 DOS units, ATK, 3 WAVs, Trident, etc)
Lifereef VS3-36 skimmer. (Currently used as internal, but can use it as an external which I believe it was I'll be doing.)
Finnex Titanium heaters (2) - I forget what they are, but if I remember correctly they are 500W.
SBreef 16" LEDs (4)

So... do I do a reverse sump setup with this build? By that I mean have the sump up higher than the 300g DT and syphon into the DT and then pump water back up into the 150g sump? Or do i make a plexi glass cover for the sump. My concern is because we have cats, dogs, and little one running around.

If my sump drains into my DT a couple of things to consider......
flow within the DT is strictly going dependent on WAVs. I have 3 now, and could get more if needed. But each one is rate up to ~4000GPH.
with water draining into the DT, would I have an issue with keeping the DT at temp? Would there be thermal spots within the DT?
I would use a floor drain in the DT to overflow into my return pump (Reeflo Hammerhead/Barracuda), this would be significantly below the water level to prevent running my return pump dry.
I have to build a stand. (not a huge deal)

If my DT drains into my sump....
Worried about children, cats, or dogs getting into the sump. (but I could cut a plexiglass sheet that it fits over it)
I could use the return pump better and install loc-line returns around the DT. (in either instance I won't be hard plumbing my returns, it'll be braided tubing)


I have some pictures saved of how I want things to kind of look which I'll post in the next comment.

I don't think I'll have to worry about water level in the sump when it comes to my skimmer. Either way the skimmer will be external and not affected by the water level in the sump..... I think. Chaeto and LR will be in the sump as well. I'll have to figure something out as it pertains to probes and automatic water changes.

Sand.... that's the next issue I need to figure out. I have 3 engineer gobies and a tiger tail sea cucumber, so I need sand. I believe I'll be adding all new sand, and getting rid of my current sand in the 210g DT. My plan is to use the CarbiSea Aragonite Fiji Pink dry sand bags that I have laying around. I'll rinse them with tap water pretty good and then rinse with salt water.

As for the move itself. I have two 275g IBC totes that I obtained from a local guy. I paid $160 for both of them, they are FDA approved/food grade. They were previous used for tequila (no unfortunately they were empty). I'm just going to rinse them out good, and then leave the lid off to air out. There is a strong alcohol odor, but I can't imagine that will hurt anything.... I mean I used to dose vodka lol.

The only problem that I have found with the stock tanks, is I'm hearing that the bulkheads tend to leak. However, it seems that is leaks at the threads and people were only using the original teflon tape Rubbermaid shipped them with. I really don't think mine even have the plugs for the bulk heads, so it doesn't matter either way for me. But... I can always use the pipe thread sealant paste that is food grade. However, one thing that I have to check on is if the bulk head is threaded all the way through or if the inside is slip. If it is threaded all the way through I will have to drill it out and install a bulk head that has a slip on the inside that I can use for the drain.

I think that's pretty much it for now. Hope to get some input from everyone here, as you guys (and gals) have always steered me in the right direction.

Thanks!

-Blair
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I love this setup. 3 overflows for the sump.
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Here is the floor drain overflow I referenced for the DT.
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This could be a possibility of the DT draining into the sump. Reference the 2 stock tanks closest to you. Either way I plan on using the float valve for my ATO, or I may use the ATK, not sure yet. But I like the mechanical filtration idea here. Floor drain in the DT drains to the basket with filter pads.
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I love this setup, sump above the DT. But idk how feasible this is going to be.
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And here are the IBC totes I got.
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ok well. I’m setting it up. The move is this Saturday.
I’m working on the plumbing. I’m deciding what to do with the drain to sump. I’ve selected a floor drain to use as an overflow.

Here is how I have it setup so far. (Don’t mind the tubing). I decided to only go one layer of cinder blocks, at this height hits just below my waist.
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Now I’m getting ready to drill for my 1.5” bulk had for the overflow. I’m only using one 1.5” overflow to the sump.

I want to prevent creatures from going for a ride. So should I do it like this?
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or like this?
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so my biggest question is, can I use an S-trap of sorts before it exits my tank, like this without any adverse effects? I can’t really go lower for my bulkhead.

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I’ll be using braided tubing for my returns. Which will go to a U shape PVC piece I’m making that will just hang over the rim. On the inside I’ll have my loc-line that is currently in my main display now. I will have to gate back my return since I’m using a Reeflo Hammerhead currently.

I ended up adding 2 circuits to our electric panel for this build so my equipment will have 2 outlets. I noticed between now and May that the most I’ve pulled was 17A. (The luxuries of having an Apex!!).

I think that’s it for now.

I’d appreciate any input!
-Blair
 

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Don’t forget a siphon break so your display doesn’t overflow when pump is off.
I think the drain plumbing should work just keep your pump low so you don’t air in the system when the pump is off. I don’t know how well that pump self primes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Don’t forget a siphon break so your display doesn’t overflow when pump is off.
I think the drain plumbing should work just keep your pump low so you don’t air in the system when the pump is off. I don’t know how well that pump self primes.
Yup I’ll be doing a siphon break on each return. I’ll be drilling a small hole on the bottom side of the return (so that the water sprays into the tank).

these pumps are gravity fed so it’ll be primed as long as there is water in the return chamber (which is going to be the entire sump).

I’m just kind of worried about the s-trap on the overflow in the main display. The s-trap is the only way I can lower the overflow and still keep the bulk head at a level that will still drain into the sump.

Here is my return. The T, on the left, is coming from the return pump. Directly out of the return pump will be 1.5”, gate valve, 1.5” necked down to 3/4”, to the T.
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Here is how the returns will sit. I think I’m going to use some kind of bracket to make sure the returns don’t move. I’ll screw them into the rim from the top.
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Back at it later this week.
-Blair
 

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Shark..but a friendly one
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Took the words right out of my left over fried chicken mouth Vinnie....THANKS. THAT was a potential mess waiting for an excuse to happen
Hack
 

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Shark..but a friendly one
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SORRY Blair, I never saw this thread? 😲

You're intending to use the sump to capture dirt right, not just for added gallonage?
I'm just afraid of dirt being sent UP to a sump, and then flowing back down may increase the likely hood of swirling around dirt getting back into your system?

I like the 'flat bladed' creature stopper plate better than the edge on one....just looks like it'll keep smaller stuff out of the sump better.

I am liking this build of your's Bro.....VERY COOL IDEA!👍
Hack
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
SORRY Blair, I never saw this thread? 😲

You're intending to use the sump to capture dirt right, not just for added gallonage?
I'm just afraid of dirt being sent UP to a sump, and then flowing back down may increase the likely hood of swirling around dirt getting back into your system?

I like the 'flat bladed' creature stopper plate better than the edge on one....just looks like it'll keep smaller stuff out of the sump better.

I am liking this build of your's Bro.....VERY COOL IDEA!👍
Hack
well I’m using the sump for a little bit of both. I’ll have to come up with something for mechanical filtration.

Do you think the “creature stopper” will limit my flow rate significantly?
 

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Shark..but a friendly one
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Do you think the “creature stopper” will limit my flow rate significantly?
Now that you mention THAT little detail, I can see where my preference would have a greater chance of doing that than the other one would. 🤔
Hack
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Now that you mention THAT little detail, I can see where my preference would have a greater chance of doing that than the other one would. 🤔
Hack
So pointy end up? lol



So my initial plan was to put all of my live stock into the 300g display, thinking that rockwork and everything would be all moved around and there should be much fighting going on. What is everyone's thoughts on this? I'd be combining two tanks when doing this. Below is the stocking for each tank.

Main:
pair of gold stripe maroon clowns
3 yellow tangs
3 monos
3 engineer gobies
1 blue hippo
1 yellow eye kole tang
1 Desjardini sailfin
1 malanarus wrasse

QT (not really in quarantine):
1 Davinci clown
1 blue chromis
1 yellow tang.




I'm currently in the process on figuring out how I want to set up the sump itself. After thinking some more I think I'm going to leave my skimmer internal, as much as I wanted it external I think it'll be easier to leave it internal. (It's a 36" Lifereef that can go internal or external with a Mag18 pump.) Not sure if I want to use any kind of container inside the sump to use with the skimmer or anything else. I want to try to accomplish mechanical filtration which I'll probably achieve using some type of plastic container with holes in it that my overflow will dump into. I'm somewhat concerned about micro bubbles from the skimmer, which I could use a stanley container from Walmart to put the skimmer in. Lastly, drain for the return pump. I could use the bulkhead built into the stock tank, or drill another, but in either case I think I should use a stand pipe with a screen on it to prevent anything from getting sucked up into the pump. If I don't put the fish from the QT into the 300g stock tank, they will be going in the sump with lighting and macro (chaeto), so I have to ensure they don't get sucked up into any equipment.

That's about it for now, stay tuned.

-Blair
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Alright, well I've read entirely too many posts about these stock tanks leaking at the factor bulk head......I just ordered SCH80 bulkheads and 2 more gate valves (which I needed anyway) and had them second day it. They should be here 8/19. I'll have to drill out the factory bulkheads, though. Fingers crossed, my anxiety is starting to go through the roof since we HAVE to move the tanks this weekend.

-Blair
 

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Shark..but a friendly one
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WOW......That's a fast moving build thread! 😲

So my initial plan was to put all of my live stock into the 300g display, thinking that rockwork and everything would be all moved around and there should be much fighting going on. What is everyone's thoughts on this? I'd be combining two tanks when doing this. Below is the stocking for each tank.
🤔 7 tangs in a 300 gallon tank.....What could possibly go wrong? You seemed to have handled THAT like a champ in a 200, so should be no concerns here. PLUS....this will be soooooooo different, I think they'll all be too busy trying to get the lay of the land.
Hack
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
WOW......That's a fast moving build thread! 😲


🤔 7 tangs in a 300 gallon tank.....What could possibly go wrong? You seemed to have handled THAT like a champ in a 200, so should be no concerns here. PLUS....this will be soooooooo different, I think they'll all be too busy trying to get the lay of the land.
Hack

Yea, I have to keep it moving fast since we have closing on our house 8/31 and this weekend (8/21) is my only weekend off to get it done.

Haha, yea they've been doing pretty **** good in the 210, never had an issue.....except for the one yellow tang, his dorsal is....modified..

As far as micro bubble from the skimmer, make something to hold filter floss to dump the water leaving the skimmer.
As far all adding the fish from two systems, do it at night when the lights are out. JMO
That's a great idea for the filter floss, thanks!!

I won't be able to add them at night since I'll be moving the system during the day, but I could certainly turn the lights off until the next day. This will be in the basement, so there will be limited light anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Alright. I hooked up my mixing station today and installed RODI unit. She’s making water for the move on Saturday. I’ll be doing all the plumbing tomorrow. At some point……since my order of bulkheads was supposed to be here today but won’t be delivered until tomorrow. I’ll be swapping out the factory bulkheads for SCH80 1.5” bulkheads.

Additionally I never thought about the fiberglass insulation in the ceiling. I’ll be getting vapor barrier plastic sheeting to staple to the ceiling to prevent any insulation dust from falling in the tanks.

not much, but I know everyone likes pics.
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stay tuned!!

-Blair
 

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Nice catch Pal about the ceiling insulation.....THAT would have made a crying mess! 👍
Hack
 
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