[ckusnierek]

Once the 220 is up the 125 is coming down.
The glass is so scratched it makes me sick to just look at it.

 

[Brutality]

Man the whole thing looks like a sick setup I can't wait to see the stand up and your plans start to come together!

 

[deanp88]

Arent pulling wires fun. Welcome to my life (electrician).

 

[ckusnierek]

Arent pulling wires fun. Welcome to my life (electrician).

So what are your thoughts on what I posted about the AFCI's?

 

[Brutality]

So what are your thoughts on what I posted about the AFCI's?

I am not an electrician but I used work in a supply house and they really arnt needed unless you and making a run of a couple hundred feet. Pretty much a waste of money imo

 

[Crazy_About_Salt]

Wow good luck on the build!! I wish I had the money, time, resouces, and experience to do something like that!

 

[deanp88]

Chris you are better off using the GFCI plug like you plan rather than the breaker. Much cheaper. With the breaker, you are protecting the line going to the plug and with the plug you are protecting whatever you plug into the plug. They will sense any voltage loss possibly lost in tank so not a bad idea. The problem is sometimes you will get nuisense tripping and whatever is plugged into that plug will be shut off. A good idea for a fish tank though since stray voltage is harmful.

 

[ckusnierek]

Got the electrical done today and the 1/4" tubing for the RO/DI.

 

[ckusnierek]

I also got started on the stand.

Got the top and bottom done and the 4 corners.
2 load bearing studs on each corner and tomorrow I will add 2 vertical studs in the center. Sand the gorilla glue and prime it.

The stand measures 38" tall which will put the top of the tank at 68"

The actual tank with trim measures 24-3/8 x 72-3/8. I originality was going to build the stand to those dimensions but decided to go with 24*72 I'm planning on sheathing it in 3/16" Oak ply. once I do that it will be flush with the tank trim and then I will just add the molding to cover the tank trim.

The top of the stand is Sierra Select Pine (kinda looks like oak.)
It's very straight and much harder than fir or pine

 

[ckusnierek]

Just curious what anyone's thoughts are on using a single dart as a main return as well as to run an Etss 800 skimmer.


I would build a manifold and use a gate valve to control flow to the skimmer.


Anyone see anything wrong with this?

 

[ckusnierek]

CRAPOLA!!!!

I was planning on using the sump from my 125. It's a 75g with 2 1" bulkheads and 2 1.5" bulkheads and baffles!
IT WONT FIT! No mater what I do once the center supports are in I cannot get the tank in. I thought about putting the sump in then the supports but what is I ever need to get the sump out????

Guess I'm making a custom acrylic sump. Not having the time to get it done for the build I will use a 30g that I have laying around.

I will drill a 2" and a 1" bulkhead.
With the loss in capacity I will also use a old 10g for my fuge for now...

Not sure of the logistics but I am concerned about overflow from the 30g is the power goes out. on my 125 I get about 25g back into the sump.

 

[wharyat]

Stand's looking good so far. :thumbup:

You could beef up the front top cross support (another 2x4 underneath the current one) and make the center upright removable on the front the stand. It also looks like you could also throw in a door, or have a removable panel on one of the sides.


Dart return pump sounds like a good choice. I would think you could power both the return and skimmer, might take a lot of adjusting but with gate valves it might not be too painful.

 

[Brutality]

Yah looking good chris, ok im an idiot but how does a 75 gal not fit into a stand for a 220g? 48X18 on the 75 and the 220 is 72X24... something doesnt come out right....

 

[ckusnierek]

Stand's looking good so far. :thumbup:

Thanks I just finished and I', getting pics uploaded!

You could beef up the front top cross support (another 2x4 underneath the current one) and make the center upright removable on the front the stand. It also looks like you could also throw in a door, or have a removable panel on one of the sides.

Thought about that but by brother built his 220 with a 2x6 top rail and it sagged and blew a seal. I do not want to take that chance.
going to sheath it in 1/4" Oak Ply and have 4 16x24 doors on front and just the sheathing on back (there will be a couch on the back side)
It's only 17" between studs even with a door I would bot be able to get a 18" tank in the end. but there still may be a door there...

Dart return pump sounds like a good choice. I would think you could power both the return and skimmer, might take a lot of adjusting but with gate valves it might not be too painful.

I have found a few people doing it.
I have to use a ball valve on the return side and a gate to the skimmer. The ball valve on the return side will restrict the flow and pressurize the manifold creating a more constant flow to the skimmer.

I also have the ETSS running on a Iwaki 55 and currently the gate is open 3-1/2 turns. All I should have to do in adjust the flow into the skimmer to get the same water line.

I'm also going to *** (4) 1/4" quick connects and valves to the manifold for my Reactors, Ca, Kalk, GFO, GAC. all very low flow and should not be an issue on the other end.

I will also have a 1" head and my Iwaki 55 on standby in case the dart goes out. It will not run the skimmer but will provide return flow. I will plumb it into the manifold and have it shut off with ball valves.

 

[ckusnierek]

Yah looking good chris, ok im an idiot but how does a 75 gal not fit into a stand for a 220g? 48X18 on the 75 and the 220 is 72X24... something doesnt come out right....

It would fit if I built the stand around the sump. But with the vertical studs the opening on the end is 17" and with the center support the opening is only about 31"

you will see in the pics in a sec...

 

[ckusnierek]

 

[fihsboy]

I have often wondered why people dont stack tanks on top of eachother. Not literally......but for example......two 33 longs......then drill the top one to drain into the bottom. Then you have 66 gallons, and both can be removed. Just and idea.

 

[deanp88]

Chris, I also built my stand and one problem I ran into was the tank was RR and like you, on the inside corners I had a stud going the full height of the stand and once the tank was set on the 3/4" ply my holes I needed to drill for return pipes and over flow where to close to that inside stud. Are your returns going to be in the back corners like mine or do you have different plans?

 

[ckusnierek]

Being the type to over-engineer everything I build I was going to use all 2x6 lumber and probably have twice as many supports...

I actually did my research on the "best" stand design and this is what I got

And if anyone is questioning it's structural integrity keep this in mind.
A stock 220g stand is made of 1*2's

For all you DIYers here is a Dimensional Lumber load calculator.

It tells me that a 31" UNBRACED vertical 2*4 can support 4,866 pounds. I have 6 of them This stand can support almost 30,000 pounds. And you can about double that because the 4 on the corners are supported!

Here is they link to that site:
http://courses.cit.cornell.edu/arch264/calculators/example7.1/index.html

 

[ckusnierek]

Chris, I also built my stand and one problem I ran into was the tank was RR and like you, on the inside corners I had a stud going the full height of the stand and once the tank was set on the 3/4" ply my holes I needed to drill for return pipes and over flow where to close to that inside stud. Are your returns going to be in the back corners like mine or do you have different plans?

Someone has but been reading this thread close enough. LOL

Actually the tank ordered is NOT Reef Ready. I am going to drill the end for a Dart overflow. (2) 2" bulkheads that will come out the end of the tank and elbow down where ever I want them to. They will not come thru the bottom of the tank.

careful there may be a quiz at the end..