The Reef Tank banner
1 - 20 of 75 Posts

·
Shark bait
Joined
·
1,086 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just joined TRT today and stumbled across this. I'm about a week or so away from putting water in the tank - been building on/off the past two months (have kids, job and a 75g tank taking up my time:)) and buying the equipment for it

I will post photos of the DIY stand, tank, DIY canopy within the next week and a half along with the plans for it (going to Lansing for MMMC's frag swap)

I plan the tank to be SPS dominant w/ a clam and/or other coral as the centerpiece - but stocking is still up in the air a little and toying with the possibility of seahorse (outside chance). It will have a sandbed and 3"-4" 'DSB' in the sump's DIY refugium.

Tank is a 1993 RR OCeanic I bought for $5.
Stand is DIY along with the canopy - mixture of pine and some oak trim (I have power tools I wanted to get familiar with and what better excuse to use them for a build!)
Lighting will be 250W MH 10 or 14k w/ Icecap ballast - maybe overkill but got a deal on the ballast and bulb back in August from reefer getting out of hobby. I am acquiring an Icecap ballast to replace the EVC ballast that could no longer fire when I tested it again the other day.)
Skimmer will be Aqua C Urchin (used) w/ Maxijet 1200.
Return will be Eheim 1250 (I beleive - have to check the model).
Extra circulation in the display will be with a modded MJ.

I plan on using some rubble and sand from my 75g's sand to seed the tank along with about 20lbs of new LR. I could 'cheat' and take LR from the 75g and replace with new but I do not want to run the risk of a cycle in the 75g.

That's all for now.
 

·
Shark bait
Joined
·
1,086 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ok... since I have this done already on my PC.. here are two rendering of the DIY stand. You'll note - I can make it look good on paper (in this case computer) but execution is novice level with wood-working.

This is a view from the front... note the hole for drain and I chose to use a solid top. I think it adds rigidity to the frame and provides a level surface for the tank to sit on.



View from the back. Note I covered only half the back to allow plumbing and electrical to come through. It also provides stability against racking.

Materials:
Top is 3/4" board
2x4 studs at corners and at perimeter under the top
T&G pine planks (I believe 1/8 or 3/16 - this was relatively cheap compared to the thicker boards. I believe a package contained six 8 foot long planks.)
Scrap 1x2 oak
Wood glue and misc nails

Real photos of the stand to follow.
 

·
Shark bait
Joined
·
1,086 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
GFI recpt for the new 20g.


Stand view from the back



Stand view from the front without the doors mounted yet.



Here is the used 20g Oceanic that I bought for $5. I scraped away the black back because it was scratched and such. I then spray painted the back and the corner overflow portion of the side. A little runny at one end but you shouldn't be able to notice it hopefully withthelights on and rocks in the way:).



View down into the overflow. Note my trial at the standpipe laying down in the tank. I have to lengthen it by about 2 inches.

 

·
Shark bait
Joined
·
1,086 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
View of the tank and stand.



The loc-line in a dry-fit. I'm going to need to shorten the PVC. The loc line should help me point the return water in spots to create some random flow.



A standard 10g tank you can get at Walmart. I think I paid around$7 for it. I got the baffles cut at Lowes - about $4 each piece and aqauirum silicone = about $25 for DIY sump. Not bad price. You'll note the baffles are put in at a slight angle as the measurement was about an eight of an inch too long.



A used Aqua C Urchin pro I bout from local reefer for $80 w/ the maxijet 1200 and new impeller. It had a cracked collection cup but I got replacement from Marine Depot for $35 = $115 for skimmer. You'll not I drilled the bracket at the bottom so I can pass a zip tie through it. This enables me to tie the pump to it and makes lifting the unit in/out easy.



Close-up of the zip tie.

 

·
Shark bait
Joined
·
1,086 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The EHeim 1250 in the sump - trial fitting. There should be 1.5 to 2 gallons that would need to evaporate before the pump sucks air. I anticipcate half gallon or less per day based on evaporation over my 75g tank.




The EVC 250W MH ballast that no longer fires. I do like the aluminim housing and that it comes with wiring. The ICECAP I'm replacing it with should be cool. I have a quick disconnect in mind that I will show you when I get it done. You're going to have to wait about 1-2 weeks before I get to that:).



Eheim 1250 and it's box. I got this from Marine Depot.



View down into sump at the first compartment with the skimmer in it - looks llike it'll fit and have some room for water:).



View of my RO/DI - 24gpd output. I'm going to need to change the sediment and carbon filter soon. I have the RO/DI collect in a 3 gallon tank and plumbed to a faucet. I currently mix water in a 15 gallon rubbermain container.

 

·
Shark bait
Joined
·
1,086 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Photo of tank on DIY stank w/ DIY canopy on top. Note the future reefer in pink:). I went with pine to match the basement's plank paneling. You can just barely see the 10g refugium for the 75g on top of a cabinet to the right. Although the 20g will be in close proximity to the 75g, it'll be totally independant.




View of stand withthe door on it. Note the childproofing on the cabinet beyond.



View of the canopy and tank.



The canopy's inside. I have not painted the inside yet. It will be painted white and will have spider reflector mounted for the 250 MH bulb and bracket.



Finally, the last photo for tonight... Childproofing.... This is a concealed lock that disengages by placing a magnet over the spot on the door where the lock is mounted. Pretty nifty idea though it cost me $12 for a package containing two. Only one was used. I think it's great for china cabinets if you do not mind drilling the inside of the door. This is to keep future reefers (another daughter is only 10 months) in training - and not experimenting on their own.

 

·
Shark bait
Joined
·
1,086 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Thanks guys. I took the cheap way out and modded the back bulkhead as it is a 3/4" barb fitting that sticks out quite a bit. Because I want to keep it as close to the wall as possible, I cut all but the last 1/4" on the barb with a hacksaw and glued a PVC elbow to it. I'll try to post a photo of it later.

I realized I'm going to need to use 3/8" hose to come out of the Eheim 1250. Luckily I have a 3/8" barb to 1/2" MPT adapter that I can screw into the elbow. I also have a 3/8" barbed valve that came with the Phosban reactor which I'll put inline in case I have to throttle the flow back. So I should be ready to put water in either before thursday or next week. (Going to a frag swap in Lansing over the weekend.)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
294 Posts
Looks great. I hope that the stand I have yet to start on goes that well.
 

·
Shark bait
Joined
·
1,086 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Looks great. I hope that the stand I have yet to start on goes that well.
The secret is trim - to hide the imperfect edges. :)

I'm happy with it - though there are imperfections that I wish I took the time to fix or had the foresight in avoiding. But I am the first to admit, I'm not a carpenter. The skimmer just barely fits in there with the sump and still allow me to remove the collection cup.

The biggest thing I wanted to accomplish withthe stand/canopy was a blend with the walls and existing aquarium woodwork. It's hard to tell because of the camera flash, but there's a walnut finish underneath a coat of poly. The wife's happy with it and that's big b/c the build for a 250g when we get a new house will certainly test both our patience. But that is a few years away.
 

·
Shark bait
Joined
·
1,086 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Ok some photos from last week of final preparation and me filling the tank.

Photo of the plan used to make the stand and the canopy.


Heater used - sorry already out of the box - got impatient:)


Digital Power Center. The lights will not be plugged in here - except for DIY Moon Lights (just got the LEDs in today from Hong Kong!).



Photo of Eheim 1250 with the valve on the output. This valve was from the PhosBan Reactor. It's not being used because I have a PVC manifold on the 75g tank feeding the filter cylinders.

 

·
Shark bait
Joined
·
1,086 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Final set of photos being uploaded tonight.

I cut the barbed bulkhead's end with a hacksaw and glued an 90 degree elbow with FMT.



View down into overflow and at the loc-line return into the tank. I'm hoping that coraline coats the PVC to hide the whiteness.



View into the sump w/ skimmer, pump and heater in place. Note that I'm putting a DSB refugium in the middle compartment.



View of the tank before filling with water. The sand is 1.5 to 2 inches deep.
 

·
Shark bait
Joined
·
1,086 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
OK.. did some electrical...

Here is a photo of the quick disconnect I wired for the MH socket/bracket. I used a replacement female plug for an extension cord. The lead from the ballast will have a male end. Sorry no photo of that at the moment.



Below is me trying out DIY moon lights :)
I got the LEDs (50) and resistors (for $5) from a guy on ebay. I got the 'breadboard' at Radio Shack today. I wired it up to see if it would work and voila - it LIGHTS.


I think the spread is a little on the narrow side but pretty bright. They'll get wired in the canopy along with the 4 inch fan I picked up at the swap this past weekend for $5. I like the breadboard as it allowed me to try the fan too - while the LEDs were in.

This is my first attempt at any type of circuitry and I think it's cool! This one hobby has made me learn plumbing, electrical, woodworking and now small circuits. Acrylics are next! ;)
 
1 - 20 of 75 Posts
Top