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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
well i finally got some more progress to show for on the stand today. i got the front all cut and in place, as well as the bottom portion of the right side. tommorrow i finish off the top of the right side, and the left side, then it just needs plumbing and doors.

well, and a little paint wouldn't hurt :)

i've decided to go with paint, jsut not sure on color yet, so i'm spackling over all the screws and small imperfections and what not. lots of sanding, thank god for rotary sanders!

here's a quick layout. the two top holes are obviously in the canopy, and will give access to the lights and the ballasts. ballasts will be o nthe far right side in the canopy. these will get doors that flip up, and will be held up by a cool holdign device i've designed, but cant share with you yet, till i build it and see if it works :)

on the left is the display tank, 75g. on the right is the cabinet unit. i'm thinking of removing the middle shelf, as there isnt much height on the two shelves now. may use that area for a auto topoff container, gravity fed, via float valve to the sump. then i'll mount a holder shelf on the door, that can hold my chemicals, test kits, etc... the cabinet unit will have one door covering it.

below the display tank, the first hole gives access to the fuge. it's about 6" high and gives plenty of room to get my hands in for working within the fuge, for alagae export, etc... above the fuge, the light will be mounted, behind the 2x4 frame, so it wont be in my way or obstruct the tank opening in any way. thsi will have a door that matches the ones on the canopy, and will flip up as well.

the next spot down, is the fuge, that is viewable through the tank. this will be left open, no door.

below the fuge, is another opening that will have flip up door, and will house a step stool, than can be slid out. this will give me better access when working inside the tank, since the stand, and top of tank, are so high.

on the right side, bottom, is the sump, this will house the skimmer, and return pump. this area will have double doors on it, that will match the rest of the doors.

i am probably going to cut open the side panels as well, and put doors on those, jsut in case access is ever needed from the sides.

the front panel, covers 1 1/2" of the bottom of the tank, which hides the tank trim, and will cover a portion of the dsb so it doesnt seem quite so deep. the bottom part of the canopy, also covers abotu 1" of the top of the tank, which holds the canopy in place, as well as hiding the tank trim. the side panel on the front of the cabinet unit, covers 5" of the right side of the tank. this will hide the side overflow unit, drain pipe, and return lines. i'm also considering having my CLS pump, in the bottom of the overflow, instead of in the bottom of the stand. this will give less head pressure on the pump, and yield higher gph throughput.

overall, it's come pretty close to the original design!
 

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Crazed Fish Whisperer
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*whistles!* very nice Jay! I am in the process of adding the polyeurothane(sp?) on my canopy..soon..I will be done.. :)

I love how organized your tank stand is. There is a compartment for everything..very cool! :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
thanks guys, i'm getting more and more excited by the day. with each added piece of skin, it looks more and more like a stand!

cant wait to get the finsih work done this weekend, and start prepping for plumbing :D

oh and jeremy..... the bottom will also havea small backboard at the back/bottom. and the entire inside will be caulked at all the semas and painted with water proof marine paint. so in the event of an unexpected flood, theoretically, the stand will hold the water, instead of draining onto my floor :D at least that's how it's supposed to work ;)
 
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well knowing jay he would have massaged the wood just incase it would hurt after being cut!
i love the stand jay it is awsome
 

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I really like the design on your stand. sounds like a lot of thought went into this one.
 

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Sweet Jay 2 things thoug I want to mention I think should remove that shelf to not enough room from the looks of the pic,second why are the ballast in the stand they cause heat ,I would put them remote further away make sure you use good ballast like icecaps. Just my suggestions you have done much better than I could good job :)
 

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Hey Jay, that is very KOOL!
I like it a lot. I wish that I had room in my house to set up somthing more elaborate. I have one piece of constructive criticism... I wouldn't block off the 6"s or so on the right hand side of the tank. I would recommend that you buy a piece of black plexi and cut out teeth in the top and then stick it in the back right corner of the tank so that you would end up with a 45 degree edge and then you could set up you stand pipe in there and would have all that extra space for viewing. Well anyway it does look rather cool and well built! Great job.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
i know cath.. mean aren't they :) i did somewhat redeem myself though, because only the bottom frame and shelves were precut. i cut all the wood for canopy, and cabinet unit. and i've cut all the skin as well.

i used the time honored tradition of measure once, cut three times, to get the hoels correct in the front of the skin :D

grazzit you're right, the tank is looking smaller with each added piece of wood! i'm hoping it draws itself out once it has stuff in it. i'm going to paint the stand a lighter color, with darker trim around tank. and the tank backing wqill be black. just going for some color illusion to bring size back up again. i really don't like the 90 gallon tanks. at least not for a stand as this. it's just too much higher. the top of the canopy is already at 6' 3" !!!

thanks calvin and new reefers. yeah i studied a number of different stand designs and incorporated a lot of them into this . drew up plans, and posted them ehre for some critique. i'm very happy with the outcome.

casey, i decided to put the ballasts up top, because i didnt want to run so many wires all the way down to the sump area as i currently have them. i need everthing ot be encolsed within this unit (nothing remote) so it's eaitehr put them up top, or down low. if i put them downlow, they are going to affect temps near the fuge and sump, plus there will be a ton of plumbing down there. so i decided to mount them above the cabinet unit, but there will also be another divider in there, to portion it off from the main canopy area. and the ballasts will have thier own exhaust fans blowing the air out. as it is right now with my vho's i am still using a heater in the sump. and my ballasts dotn get very warm at all. well, yeah they get warm, but not hot. and yes i agree on the middle shelf. at first it looked good on paper. but once i started skinning, those shelves got real small. so i figured that'd be a good spot for a top off container.

big t. the skin covering the edge of tank, isnt screwed down yet, so it can always be shortened. i didnt want to go with a corner overflow, because i need space to get my hands in there, as i really want my cls pump in there, so i can buy a smaller pump, and have less head pressure on it. my standpipe will actually be outside the tank i nthe cabinet unit, and only the bulkhead, and elbow/strainer will be inside the tank. so the space may not actually need to be 5" wide. i'm not fully attaching that piece of skin until after the tank is drileld and the plumbing is done, then i can see jsut where i want the overflow wall built, albeit corner or side. the plexi work in the sump, fuge, and display are still not ground in stone yet.

thanks johnny! and thanks everyone. the critisism, and advice is ALWAYS appreciated.
 

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hmm...I just looked at the pic again, and saw that it was a 75g tank in there... I just upgraded to a 75...so...it just clicked...THAT IS ONE HUGE STAND! heh heh heh
 

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Jay,
I have a couple questions...

#1 What are you going to trim this thing with? (hide the plywood edges?)

#2 What size and grade, and wood type did you use for the skin? 1/2"?

#3 Did you miter the corners to hide the plywood, or are there butt joints? If Butt joints, I am assuming the front skn hides the side edges?

I think this is where your stand and mine will look very different. Im going to have two large holes in the stand, with double doors, and im going to have one large hole in the cabinet with double doors.

Also, since I have 3' of room in my cabinet (since my tank is 36") I am thinking about dividing it vertically, and on the left side mount a NO tube Vertically, mount 4 shelves, two on each side of the light, with enough room on each for a single 2litre bottle. This way I could culture phtyo in my stand without having to have the equipment strewn everywhere. Plus it will be warm inside this stand so I wouldn't have to heat it.

Again, Thanks Jay for all your hard work on your stand, its has encouraged me to really push along with mine.


Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
dave,
since i'm going to paint, instead of stain, i'm not trimming to hide the edges. just spackling and sanding, and then painting over them. so you really wont notice them.

on the canopy i messed up on my measurement for the front skin, so the side skin has the edge showing in the front. but on the bottom skin, i cut it right, and the front skin, hides the edges of the sides. follow me?

for the skin on everything i used 1/2" plywood. not sure what grade. it has one good side, and one bad side though. it was only 13 a sheet at HD so i dont think its a very high grade.

miter vs butt joint. yeah i guess i would call them butt joints. and didnt use any mitered edges.

i am going to put on some trim boards along the top edge of the bottom skin, where it meets the tank, and along the bottom edge of the canopy, again, where it meets the tank. i found some nifty trim at hd, that is only 1/2" thick 4" wide and has vines and leaves engraved in it, then i'm going to color over the engraving with another color paint, to make them stand out after the trim board is painted. they also havea matching board in like 2" size. so i'll use the thicker one on the stand, and the thinner one on the canopy.

phyto culture.. heh! that's what i was orignially going to use the cabinet for too! i've never cultured before, but it looks simple enough. but then i decided to use that spot for auto top off, since there is more room than behind the fuge. if i do it behind the fuge, i wont have as much room, and would be limited to more like a 2 or 3 gallon container. i may have room in the cabinet for top off AND phyto, but that remains to be seen.

ok back to the garage with me :)

i'm still looking forward to seeing some pics dave!!
 

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yeah, I was going to put my auto top-off up there also, but since I got this 55 gallon tank, I have a 48" sump now. Meaning I can put my refugium in there, and still have 2' of room next too the tank for a top-off. So I will go with an auto-top off/kalk drip set-up on the right hand side of the stand, with the sump on the left.

In the cabinet I will culture phyto, and maybe hatch brine (if there is room)

Im going to add a shelf to the bottom of the canopy where it sits over the cabinet, and have my ballast in there. This way it can also benefit from the fans in the canopy, and if I need to pull the entire canopy off for some reason I will only have to unplug the ballasts, everything will be inside the canopy. When I get my 6' tank however, this will have to be removed and the ballast's will have to find a new home.

Looking good, can't wait to see the finished product. My wife and I were just discussing on whether to paint it all white, or do a little more work and stain it.

BTW, Im not going to permanently attach my front skin. I will use several metal flaps/loops (ill show a picture if I ever get the camera done) to "hang" the front. The end result will be that I can go through the doors if I have to, but that I can remove the entire front if I need to do some serious work. the down side I that I can't seal it....


Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
for me, stain is easier than paint.. but there is the extra work in making sure all the wood is perfect at the joint and what not. i wanted to be able to just cover everything with spackle and fill in the imperfections. then just paint it over, so it LOOKS like it was a really good cut job :D

that was one of the reasons i went with ballast up top too, was so i didnt have to undo a bunch of wires to remove the canopy.

i like the idea of a removable front.. but yeah, some extrea work there too.
 
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