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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have done 2 40 gallon water changes this week and my calcium is still 600????should I just ride it out or lower it?????any advice is appreciated....I have a digital monitor for calcium....I have done 3 calibrations so it must be right???I also have a seachem clacium liqued kit but its not working right Im going to get a new liquid test but this reading is right I think???
 

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What salt are you using? I use ocenic and have been having problems with my ca.
 

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Hey Joe. I was having Ca troubles recently, and I finally got them to come down. I had some nitrate problems, so I did a 40-50% water change. That brought down the nitrates and my calcium from 560ppm to around 500ppm. Hope that helps. I know it would be hard to change that much water in a 210. Good luck!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I just used Io they say it don't have as much calcium.....I usually use seachem reef salt....my nitrates are 0
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I guess it will eventually come down with water changes>>>>will it hurt the fish and corals that hi???everything is still looking good...my devil is growing like crazy
 

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I'm new at this so take my advise with a grain of salt. I think as along as it goes down slowly you should be ok.
 

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have you tested a fresh new batch of water change water? just curious if you somehow managed to get a bad batch of salt. very, very unusual, but has happened. make up some WC water and test it to get a reference.

what is you alk?

are you dosing anything? it is very difficult to get Ca that high without somekind of supplimentation, unless your salt is off.

high Ca levels are not a bad thing. it will do more harm to pumps and heaters than it will to the critters. if it gets to high it will precipitate out and leave a snow covering on everything.

you should just be able to stop all suppliments, and let it come down on its own. we need to know what your alk is, to see if alk should be added or not. more likely not, but a good reading would let us know this.

G~
 

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I am with Geoff on testing some 35 PPT fresh IO @ 80 degrees F to confirm your testing methodology before doing a bunch of changes to your system. I have the Pinpoint Ca monitor, and unfortunately I think it is the biggest waste of money (next to Rio pumps, Aquarium Pharmaceutical test kits, and Milwaukee pH meters) I have ever spent on aquarium equipment. If the meters are not calibrated immediately prior to use, the results are just not reliable, so to make sure your response is correct, you need to perform a Salifert test to confirm your results. This is fine if you have a number of systems to test on the same day (which I do), so it ends up saving time for multiple system operators, but for a single water column, you're better off using a Salifert titration to test the water. I would not make a big change in a system based solely on your calcium probe results, rather that you use it as a head's up device to let you know of a potential problem requiring further investigation.


Increasing your alk will drop calcium, but you should test your alk first, as if the alkalinity is >12dKH for 35 PPT salinity at 80-82 degrees F, then the calcium test is most likely wrong, potentially both are wrong, so you're back to testing a freshly made sample of IO to check your methodology, ESPECIALLY if both test high with Salifert.


HTH
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
my salinity is 34.9 ppt and my alk is 8.8 dkh the water today is 80.8 with a ph reading of 8.04 my calcium is 580...I did test my Io water I used(waiting on seachen salt to get here...but the water Io calcium was 530??? I have calibrated the monitor twice already....are they just junk or what???should I send it back I have a short time guarantee...Im going to get the salifert kit...

oh yeah geoff I add 2 part calcium & alk but havent for a week or so...also dose Kalk through drip...thanks

should I raise my alk to 12 dkh?
 

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since you have a kalk drip i would let it keep going. what kind of Ca using critters do you have in the system? how is your corraline doing? you are kinda in no mans zone right now. it will be a bit difficult to lower the Ca quickly unless you have some Ca using critters in the tank. i am sure your coralline is starting to get going, but it can take a bit to really start sucking up the alk and the Ca. since it is not precipitating out i would stay with the status quo.

if your Ca does not drop in a week, than stop the kalk drip for a week and see if you start seeing a drop. usually kalk drips push your alk up more than the Ca. this is why i am suggesting keeping it going.

G~
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
calcium using critters like corals???? I have 2 large green star polyps and a devils hand and some green mushrooms thats about it right now in the way of corals...I was planning on getting a 10 pack frag in a week or 2 (good or bad idea?) We aso have a large seabae annome...
 

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those corals need very little Ca. Clams and skeleton forming corals require large amounts of Ca and alk. with those corals you may be able to get away with only WC and kalk drip to keep your Ca and alk in check.

it sounds like you are just trying to hard and supplimenting when you really do not need to. very easy to do when just starting a reef tank.

G~
 

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JOE!!! Give patharms post a read, its a little long winded but I tell you randy knows his stuff, and the information is worth knowing, it will give you a much better understanding of your calcium and you will have the tools to solve the problem for yourself. its the advanced aquarist link, this is the short version of what is discussed in his books.

patharm said:
I believe if you raise you alkalinity to meet your Calcium levels it will help the Calcium get transferred into the corals. Which is your purpose for having the calcium. Check out the Randy Homes Farley articals in ReefKeeping. Check out this thread by him:

http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2002-04/rhf/feature/index.php

http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/nov2002/chem.htm
this link explains how to correct for out of balance calcium and alkalinity levels.

Patrick
 
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