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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have heard that some light bulb temperatures are better for algae growth than others (namely 6500k). If I replaced my current NO bulbs from 10000k and actinic to 20000k would this help at all in my battle against green algae and green cyanobacteria? On a side note, what is the best way to rid a tank of a cyano outbreak?
 

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IME there are 3 things that will cause a cyno outbreak

1. Old lights

2. Lack of circulation

3 Under skimming.

( ie too many nutrients in the water whether from overfeeding, or where ever the excess nutrients are coming from. If you must continue with the NO lighting I would start there and do a waterchange.)

Maybe someone else can chime in and tell you something different to try but thats where I would start


HTH
Jeff
 

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i have a terrible memory, could you please explain your tank setup to me. size total amount of flow and how the flow is distributed, power heads, returns, CLS's. also what kind of skimmer and substrate. what kind of filtration do you have, wet/dry, hang on? i know these are basic questions but i am a slow learner when it comes to all of the members here.:)

G~
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I am still a newbie to this board. You may have never seen my posts. I have a 75 gallon aggressive FO tank with a matching Oceanic 75model trickle wet/dry filter. It works well on keeping levels in check. I recently traded my UV sterilizer for a Sealife Systems NV150 skimmer. It is too large to fit in the sump with the wet dry. I am currently trying to figure out a way to make it work. I also have a 10 gallon nano I am setting up. The return from the sump is flowing diagonally across the tank aimed at the surface for agitation. I dont have any powerheads currently (lack of $). The lights are old NO light strips. As far as I know for a FO you only need enough lighting to see the fish. I have sand with what appears to be Aragalive type substrate mixed in in small amounts. I did not set up the tank but rather bought it from a local so I do not know specifically the type or how old the lights are. Sorry I could not be of more help. Thanks for the input. I am hoping to get a powerhead soon to get flow over the substrate. The sand is hard and clumpy on top and covered in green cyano.
 

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Tom are you out there? After your algae talk at the ARC meeting not long ago I'll never try to answer an algae question again if you're around.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I have no live rock in the system right now. The bioballs in the wet/dry serve as my biofilter. The tank has been set up for about a year in my possession and several years with the previous owner before (I used his original water and everything). I currently have a 3" lunare wrasse, a 1" clown trigger, and a 3" valentini puffer. I have been feeding every other day but have cut down to every third day since the onset of cyano to cut down on nutrients (not sure how much this will help without a skimmer). These are all messy feeders. Joel, how do I go about turning in my application and first dues to join the ARC. It sounds fun. I am hoping to get my first frag for my nano soon.
 

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Come to the meeting next Tuesday at Jenn's store Imagine Ocean and Jenn can get you going. You also get a 10% discount on most things at sponsor stores, that will more than take care of the $20 dues per year. As always all meetings are open to members or non-members alike. Please feel free to visit the ARC website also @ www.atlantareefclub.org. If you need anything feel free to pm me or any of the others members. See you at the meeting.
 

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bingo, no LR!!! what king of decorations do you have in the tank? LR is the primary filter system we use now. LR allows the different species of bacteria to live right next to eachother. this allows the nitrogen cycle to be completed in a very small area. if you have a lot of dead coral in your tank for decorations these will act as LR. if you can pick up some base rock from a LFS that will quickly be seeded by the bacteria in your tank and become LR. i would also start removing your bioballs from the filter. bio-balls only do 2/3 of the nitrogen cycle conversion. they convert ammonia to nitrite, then nitrite to nitrate. without enough LR in the tank then the nitrate to nitrogen part of the cycle will not be comleted leaving you with high nitrates. high nitrates can cause algae and cyano blooms.

G~
 
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