The Reef Tank banner

1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
307 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just started the Hyposalinity treatment for ICH.... I wanted to post what happened, what I've done and all updates.....so if anyone is interested, they can follow along.

WHAT HAPPENED:

I have a 75gal tank with a small amount of live rock with corals off the leftside of the tank. The rightside is wideopen swimming area. My corals include torchs, LTA (hosted by maroon), zenas, frogspawn, polyps.

On June 23rd 2006, I brought home a PowderBlue Tang. I acclimated it by floating the bag and dripping water from my tank into the bag for 1.5 hours.

Upon releasing the fish (and dumping the bag water down the drain).... almost immediately the PBT starting flipping on its side and rub against my gravel substrate. Immediately called the LFS and got the "you're shxt out of luck" treatment on the phone.

WHAY I'M DOING:

On Day-4 in the tank, the PBT showed 3-4 small white spots on its rightside. I'm assuming its ICH.

I setup a freshwater dip in one of my waterchanging buckets. Got the temp and PH as close as possible.... I put the PBT in the bucket for 3mins. Looked like the PBT could have gone longer, but didn't want to chance it.

After returning the PBT to the main tank....I scrubbed-out the bucket. I then setup my spare 40gal tank right next to my 75gal tank and filled with SW with the salinity at 1.022. I MOVED all my liverock and corals into the 40gal. Also moved the Maroon Clown so she can still hosted the LTA.

After moving all the coral, I did a 25gal waterchange on the MAIN 75gal tank. I concentrated on syphoning the gravel exclusively with my syphon-tube.

When replacing the water in the 75gal tank, I aimed for a salinity of 1.016 and got really close. I left the water temp right at 79degrees and never changed that setting.

After two hours of having the salinity at ~1.016, I noticed that the white spots on the PBT had fallen-off (YEAH!)..... and the PBT had quit rubbing up against the substrate and was swimming around the tank with what seemed like a whole new attitude... it seemed much happier.

That's all for Day-4.... I will be posting what I plan to do for Day-5 on next post... which is to lower salinity to about 1.012.... then eventually down to about 1.010 on Day-6
 

·
Little fish in a big pond
Joined
·
5,916 Posts
The only flaw with this plan is if the fish is still in the tank, the ich still has a host :(

I'd have used the 40 to isolate the fish, do hypo and leave the main display fishless for 30 days. Ich can't host on corals or inverts, so they'd have been fine, (no hypo in the main display). Once you break the life cycle, theoretically it doesn't come back... although I'm not convinced of that.

The best prevention as I mentioned in the other thread, is to quarantine all new fish for a minimum of 2 weeks, but 4 is better, and treat them in quarantine if need be. For ongoing prevention, good water quality, low stress and good diet will keep the fish's immune system strong and able to fight it off if it's still present in the aquarium (which I believe it is).

I know people will disagree with me concerning whether it's actually possible to eliminate it from a system completely - and I'm fine with that - but I do think we'll all agree that an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure :)

If it was only a couple of spots to begin with - you'll likely have nipped it in the bud.

Ironically, it's usually not the parasite itself that kills the fish... it's usually a secondary bacterial infection.

Think of ich like a flea or mosquito - it bites you, or feeds off you (needs to feed on your blood to reproduce). Once it leaves you, it leaves an open wound. You scratch it because it's itchy, and your skin becomes raw... then next thing you know you've got a pussy infection. Same can happen with the fish. Unless the infestation is extreme and impedes the fishes' ability to breathe (gills are basically clogged up), the parasite doesn't necessarily kill the fish - but the bacterial infection that gains entry through the bite-sites is what goes systemic and kills the fish.

Hope that makes sense...

If treating a severe infestation, it's a good idea to treat with antibiotics after the fact if you suspect an infection. I don't recommend casual use of antibiotics, because like any bacterial infection, they can become resistant, especially if the dosing isn't done carefully and for a full 7-10 days, however there are times when it's a good idea as long as you follow the full dosing regimen. Cutting the dosing time short (like when the fish appears well) can cause the bacteria to come back with a vengeance and the meds you're using become ineffective.

AGAIN - MEDICATIONS ARE FOR THE QUARANTINE TANK - NOT THE MAIN DISPLAY! (I can't tell you how many people I've seen whose LFS have told them it's OK to treat the main tank and when every invert dies.... :doh: )

The other alternative is to use a product called Kick Ich in the main display. It seems to be effective in mild cases, and it won't harm corals or inverts (Steven Pro has done studies with Xenia on this), but it's not as effective as conventional treatments - it's a decent "last resort" if the hobbyist has no other options available, and for some reason it seems to be most effective if dosed overnight.

Another thing - if you're using any medications of any kind - be sure to remove your carbon and turn off your skimmer - both of these will remove the medications so you'll be spinning your wheels if that's left out of the equasion. If you're only using hypo-salinity, you can leave the carbon in and the skimmer in place - but with lower salinity you will find that your skimmer doesn't work as efficiently.

Hope this helps

Jenn
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
307 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Even though I thought this over....I cant see putting a yellow tang, a kole tang and the powder blue tang all in a 40gal cube (24in wide x 18in deep) for 30 days....they'd all probably kill each other due to lack of open territory.

Like you said.... Its was only 2-4 tiny white spots on the rightside of the PowderBlue and they have already fallen-off in the 75gal after the FW dip. I'm lowering the salinity to 1.010 over the course of two days and keeping it there for atleast 2 weeks maybe 3.

I have read that ICH cant survive in 1.010 salinity...and will die and not regenerate....HOPEFULLY

Thanks for the tips though.....:)
 

·
ONE VERY BIG FISHY
Joined
·
699 Posts
i believe even once you cure the itch it might come back because you have 3 tangs in a 75 gallon tank, i think thats what was causing the powder blue to stress and in turn you got itch. just my 2 cents
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
307 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Day-7: salinity down to 1.012 ~ 1.010. Fish are doing WELL and are eating and swimming happily.
 

·
BRW member
Joined
·
2,610 Posts
ive had mostly good experiences with hyposalinity. my only losses were where the qt tank didnt have adequate biological filtration (despite massive water changes). Since youre doing it in your display you should be fine. however, one weak point in your plan. if there are any parasites in your 40 gallon (unseen in the gills of your maroon, or on the LR) they can multiply and live on and be reintroduced into your display once you put them back in. just something to be aware of. maybe you can fwd some of that stuff before reintroduction.
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
Top