Wow Geoff it's been a long time. Are you just getting back in the game? I remember the mantled monster. I was out of the hobby for a bunch of years. Just got back in a couple months ago. Much smaller to start with though.
we finally got the house renovated, so i was able to incorporate a large tank. the tank was suppose to go upstairs and be a room divider, but the engineering just didn't work out. we put it downstairs instead.
it is actually quite a bit more along than that picture. i thought i had more, but i do not. i will take some more when i get it a bit more cleaned up.
it is a 280g. 24X96X30. Custom Aquariums is building it now. it has the front and left side Low E and the rest normal.
i have multiple holes all over the thing for flow. i will try and get the plans up also.
i have not started building the sump yet, but have most of the equipment now.
i have built a MRC clone dual becket skimmer with Avast Marine neck cleaner.
right now i plan on having about 16000gph of flow. with 8000gph of it behind the LR structure.
i plan on doing the same faux sand bed i did on the Mantled Monster.
for those that have DIY'd a LED setup, any glaring misses in the following setup?
i plan on 4 lights each containing 49 LED's each. 6 channels controlling all 4 lights for color, not for each fixture. i am going for a full spectrum light. i prefer a more natural light spectrum most. what i am going for is the Iwasaki 6.5K with actinic. i am not a fan of 10K and above lighting. the following list is for 1 fixture.
Channel1: 9 Royal Blues
Channel2: 9 Blues
Channel3: 6 UV
Channel4: 9 Cool White (6.5K)
Channel5: 9 Warm White (3K), though i could be convinced to go 4.5K
Channel6: 2 Turquoise
i have the new Apex for controlling the system. i will need to get another VDM module for the other 2 channels.
it has been kind of on and off as the renovation was going on. that is why it was "under wraps". there were times that i was not going to do it because the costs of the renovation was getting to high, but we got lucky with some plumbing and it opened up a lot of extra money. i also really, really wanted it upstairs as a room divider seen on 3 sides.
now i am playing catch up with getting the rest of the downstairs sorted by the time the tank arrives in about a month. i still have another whole wall to remove paneling from and get it taped, mudded, and painted.
I've been renovating since Jan, I know your pain. There used to be paneling, wallpaper and shag carpet as far as the eye can see. I still am missing some baseboards and have no interior door knobs, but all the big stuff inside is finally done.
Having it as a room divider would've been amazing, but I can't imagine the structural work you'd have to do to have a tank that size on the second floor. ..
yep, that was the problem. getting a beam that would work. the tank was actually going to be even bigger if it was going upstairs. 24X120X30.
the A/C ducting was running the wrong way, so that we would have to drop the ceiling in that area even more, and that was unacceptable to the boss. i thought i had found a holey steel beam that would work, but the engineer said it would not. not sure why, but oh well.
tank on order.
4 Current eflux 6010 DC pumps for behind the LR flow.
2 Velocity T2 pumps for return pumps. pushing eductors. i may use a large Iwaki. no DC pumps can push eductors. i have a lot of pumps to play around with.
Neptune Apex controller with 2 WAV pumps for additional flow.
Penguin 1/2HP Chiller
DIY MRC dual beckett skimmer with neck cleaner
2 40w UV sterilizers
4 DIY LED light fixtures with 49 LED's each.
Amazon Fire Apex display controller
5 stage 100gpd RO/DI filter
kalk reactor with stir bar
in the "tank room", the small closet area at the end of the tank, there is a tiny sink for water supply and drain.
there is a dedicated exhaust fan for pulling air from both below the tank where the sump will be and above the tank. you can see the top one in the picture above.
i am about done painting the entire stand white for protection. we have not decided what color we are going to paint the outside of the stand, but probably the same color as the walls, so it blends in.
also what is missing from the picture above is the behind the tank access door. the wall backs up to the laundry room. this access door will allow me to reach back behind the tank to which ball valves and check on things behind the tank. there is a 5.5" shadowbox behind the tank for plumbing runs that extends below the bottom of the tank support structure of the stand.
i am also in the process of adding multilayer sound deadening material to the entire inside of the tank for noise control. it will be very close to completely closed off except for strategic areas for air flow that will also have sound deadening material.
it took the builders a while to figure out what i was talking about until they got the stand actually build and could see why that back wall was shaped the way it was.
no, they knew they were going to need to raise a steel beam from the beginning. it was always in the scope of the plans. nobody was sure of the size of the beam. if the A/C runs ran the other way, then they would have had to lift the beam anyway.
Here are the schematics for the back and the right side of the tank.
This is the back.
there will be 4 overflows all feeding their own individual DC pump and then outputting through the 1.5" bulkheads that will be behind the LR structure. the outputs will probably be elbows facing down, but i may have one facing upwards to push flow more up through the LR and back flow the corals more. the gap on the right side is for the wall that is there. the rest of the back of the tank is exposed by the shadowbox in the wall for reach in access to the valves. i plan on painting the back of the tank after i finalize the LR structure, so i can leave the areas behind the LR unpainted so i can peer in behind the LR to check on flow and other nefarious stuff.
the furthest right hole is for the second return. both returns are going to have eductors on them.
the right side:
not much exciting going on here. just the overflow and one of the returns. i may have to "carve" out a little of the framing for the access door to get around the bulkhead for the return. not supporting much except for the the door frame. i expect to only need to "carve" out about 0.5" out of the full width 2X4 that is there.
i still have not cleaned up the area enough to get a picture of how everything stands now, but hopefully by the end of the weekend. i am finishing up the trim painting of wall number one and can move everything back and then get started on wall number 2.