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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Everyone;
This has to do with the cpl of nitrate threads Ive posted. Today I realized through a cpl of threads that maybe I need to do more than just remove the bio balls. I also have a ehiem wet dry running on my tank. I didn't realize or think about the media in the ehiem also being a nitrate factory:eek: . I've decided to use the Ehiem as a polisher after water changes. I will say it has FREAKED me out a little that the only media I ow have is the LR in my sump(completely under water) and the few bio balls Ive yet to remove. My Ph is now at 8.2 and I must admit my corals do look happier today. So maybe between the Ph and getting most of my bio balls out the coral are happier. I also learned from my pet shop that the MH I have are more for Freshwater planted system than saltwater reef system:eek: .
I have 2 175 watt 5k screw in MH on my tank now. I ordered 2 175 watt 15000k that will be in this weekend. I cant tell you guys how much I have learned from you in such a little time. I also cant thank you enough for all the kind words and help you have given me:blob: .
Patrick
 

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Everyone here learns from each other. That is whats cool about TRT. There are no MR. Know-it-all with an atitude to go along with their advice. I am glad you are enjoying your time here.
:thumbup:
 

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Just some guy, you know?
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5k bulbs are great for growth, but have a very yellow color which I personally don't like.

15K bulbs have great color, but are not as good for growth, you may want to think about moving your fixture down a little (but don't get it closer than 5-6 inches off the water) to get more par into your tank.

I personally like 10K with atinics, it is a white light, and the atinics still give your corals the pop.

I think you will be amased how good your tank looks once you get those 15K's on there :D.

Whiskey
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hi Wiskey
My light is VERY yellow. I cant wait to get the new ones this sat. I have my lights about 8 inches from the tank.
Patrick
 

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Brent Cone said:
Avitar??????????????????????????????:lol: :lol: :lol:
:funny::funny::funny::agree::rotflmao::rotflmao::rotflmao:
 

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we are always glad to see new members like you coming along. willing to learn, yet are not afraid to ask why and expect answers to make sense. keeps us all honest, and keeps the egos away. :dance:

when dealing with MH's it is important to note how much par a bulb you are thinking about using produces. you may have to adjust the lighting schedule or distance from the water to compensate for the difference in the lighting. generally speaking when going to a higher K bulb you do not have to worry about over parring your corrals. when going down in K you really have to note the difference in PAR values. if the difference is great than you will need to go to a lower lighting schedule in order to keep the corrals form being adversely affected.

G~
 

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I can't even begin to tell you how much I have learned here. It's amazing that I actually know anything about this hobby. The main that I have learned is 'patience'. Gosh, that word really sucks! I didn't have the patience with the nano but, when I moved on to the thirty gallon - I had the patience to do it right from the beginning.
This is a great group of people. It's been a learning experience and, so much fun.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
HI Everyone Thanks for all the great feed back. I have lowered my lights. They are about 6 and3/4 abouve the ater now. The new lights I'm getting are 15000k the ones I have now are 5000k.
 

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Saltwater Mom
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Will he need to acclimate everything to new lighting? Or is it not a big enough difference? This always stumps me, when is it necessary to light acclimate?
 

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As Geoff said the new bulbs will have less par than the current ones, so no acclamation would be necessary. If he had been going from a lower par bulb to a higher par (like from 15K bulbs to 6700K ones) one he would have to acclimate.

Twitterbait said:
That is whiskey's self portrait... it was a hot summer day!
:rolleyes:

HTH,
Whiskey
 
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