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Discussion Starter #1
...just lookin' for the best MH bulbs for my 75G Reef tank.

Here is my light...
48" Outer Orbit - 2x150W 10K HQI-MH, 2x130W Dual Actinic, & 6 Lunar Lights.
http://www.current-usa.com/outerorbit.html

My current coral collection consists of the following (from)...as of 11/13/06

Green Milli Acro (mtfatwork)
Bali tricolor Acro (mtfatwork)
Unknown tricolor Acro (mtfatwork)
Pavona (mtfatwork)
Pink Montipora Digitata (mtfatwork)
Orange/brown Zoanthids (mtfatwork)
Ultra purple Formosa (Graham)
Purple plating Monti with bright purple polyps (Graham)
Frogspawn (Graham)
Green plating Monti with purple polyps (Graham)
Multicolored teal Acro (Graham)
Purple tip Stag (Graham)
True blue Zoanthids (Graham)
Granulosa Acro (Graham)
Yellow Turbinaria (Graham)
Hot pink Milli (Clownnut)
Yellow Milli (Clownnut)
Oregon Blue Tort (stuckey_t)
Multi-colored Plana (stuckey_t)
Larrry Jackson Purple Monster (stuckey_t)
BamBam Zoanthids (stuckey_t)
Miami Orchid (stuckey_t)
The Blue unknown Acro (stuckey_t)
Blue Challice Echino (stuckey_t)
Grape Alien Eye Echino (stuckey_t)
Lava Flow Echino (stuckey_t)
Idaho Grape Monti (stuckey_t)
Oxypora (stuckey_t)

Red & Mint Lobo (All Reef)
Green Brain (All Reef)
Red Brain (All Reef)


My current livestock...as of 11/13/06

1 Percula Clown
2 Green Chromis
1 Orange Diamondside Goby
1 Watchman Goby
1 Pistol Shrimp
2 Peppermint Shrimp
1 Mexican Turbo Snail
4 Torchus Snails
1 Scopas Tang
1 6 Line Wrasse
6 Blue leg Hermit Crabs
6 Scarlet Reef Hermit Crabs

1 Maxima Clam
1 Dersa Clam
1 Red Neoferdina Star
1 Blue Linckia Star
1 Cleaner Shrimp

Thanks,
Dave

 

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I'm not sure I understand your question. Seems like you've got a ton of stuff in your tank and if they're doing OK, then your current lights must be alright IMO. 150 watt halides might be a touch on the low side for all of the acropora that you have, are you thinking of bumping up your lights to 250 watt bulbs or are you wanting a specific brand of bulbs? A lot of people speak highly of the XM bulbs. Personally, I have t5 lamps and like them a lot.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I'm not sure I understand your question. Seems like you've got a ton of stuff in your tank and if they're doing OK, then your current lights must be alright IMO. 150 watt halides might be a touch on the low side for all of the acropora that you have, are you thinking of bumping up your lights to 250 watt bulbs or are you wanting a specific brand of bulbs? A lot of people speak highly of the XM bulbs. Personally, I have t5 lamps and like them a lot.
I want to keep the fixture...but I think it's time to replace the bulbs. I bought it "slightly used/tested". One light seems brighter than the other. I'm not sure how long are MH's suppose to last? Can I change bulb size with this fixture? If so - what would be the benifit?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Assuming this is an HQI ballast (Not electronic)

All bulbs sheilded:

Icecap 150W 6500K DE 1 wins @ 78 par
HIT(BLV) 150W 10000K DE 1 #2 @ 67 Par
Sylvania Aqua Arc 150W 10000K DE 1 #3 @ 64 Par
Icecap 150W 10000K DE 1 #4 @ 63 Par
XDE 150W 10000K DE 1 #5 @ 61 Par
Giesemann 150W 10000K DE 1 #6 @ 60 Par

It all goes down from there.

All info from Sanjay's sight.
http://www.reeflightinginfo.arvixe.com/selectballast.php

Whiskey
Thanks Whiskey,

I looked at that site already...It's all Greek to me. I don't know what to look for in a replacement bulb.
 

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Simply put:

Par is a meaure of light output that is usable to corals.

Higher par, means more light the corals can use.

I listed the Par for the top 6 bulbs there, you probably don't want something in the 6,500 range, but as you can see some 10K are better than others.

Whiskey
 

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Caitlin Renee 6/29/07
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i dont want to hijack this thread

Whiskey, what numbers am i looking at on that site for PAR rating of the bulbs?

Thanks
 

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PPFD, but when you click the link you have to look at the PPFD rating for the M81 Magnetic HQI ballast, not one of the electronic ones, plus you have to run for shielded bubs because yours are.

That's what I said
assuming you are running an HQI ballast
All tests run on sheilded bulbs
Whiskey
 

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Caitlin Renee 6/29/07
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i must be doing something wrong. because i am only getting offered for a M80 ballast not M81.. would the 250W be different?
 

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The way I used Sanjay’s performance data to select bulbs was like this:

I have 250-Watt PFO HQI ballasts and PFO Mini Pendants. I chose PFO Minis because they have been shown to have one of the best reflectors available. The ballasts came along for the ride.

So, I “search(ed) performance data by ballast”, selected 250-watt, HQI, PFO Lighting and “Y” for shielded (DE bulbs have to be shielded), and clicked on submit to get the list.

So, what did I do with the numbers?

In general, PPFD (photosynthetic photon flux density), CCT (color index) and Watts are related. If I try for the maximum PPFD, I will get a yellow-looking bulb (5,700K) that chews up 365 watts (yes, HQI ballasts overdrive many 250-watt bulbs). I wanted a bluer color, so I looked at the bulbs with CCTs closer to 10,000K. The Giesmann bulb looks good, but still runs at 335 watts. Last time I checked Giesmann bulbs were rather expensive, also.

Going down the list, the Aqualine Buschke bulb is a good choice at 304 watts. It is a bit yellow at 8,225K, however.

Other considerations, not on the list, are how long the bulb tends to hold its intensity and spectrum as it ages.

My final choice was either Aqualine Buschke or Ushios.

Even after I chose a bulb, what reflector I use and how high I position the bulb off the water surface make huge differences in the light intensity. I have a quantum meter, and I get around 1,300 umol/m2/s at 1” above the water surface. Where most of my coral, anemones and clams live, the ppf is around 250-350. The PFO Minis are hanging by chains so I can easily raise or lower the lights. Just raising the pendants by 1 ½” will drop the ppf from 1,300 to 1,000 at 1” above the water surface.

Oh, yes. Another important thing. My PFO Minis are on 6 hours a day.
 
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