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spec are good, but kinda scary...........what happens when you need parts next year............im in the same boat im looking on ebay too............but scared to buy
 

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I purchased a unit off of Ebay from filterdirect. Their auctions probably show up in your search. I just put it in on Tuesday with little effort. The reason I went with theirs was it provides a separate line for filling buckets as well as a drinking line (mine's under the kitchen sink). I would recommend getting one with a tank if you can. They trickle pretty slow and the tank gives you about a two gallon burst.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
How is a RO/DI plumbed in? Is it attached to the faucet or is it hard-plumbed into the house's water line?
 

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The very top is a "post" carbon filter. The clear second tube down is for DI. The post filter is just for one final touch up for taste and such. This is usually done on a system used for drinking water but isnt necessary, in my experience, for reefing.

It looks like a pretty standard RO/DI system that takes standard RO and DI components you can get elsewhere. Looks like a good deal to me.

Without the tank that akaatomic mentioned, you'll need to collect the ro/di water in a food grade container for use in your reef later. The tank is handy if you're going to use it for drinking water and is an easy attachement later on.

just my 2.
 

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hng said:
How is a RO/DI plumbed in? Is it attached to the faucet or is it hard-plumbed into the house's water line?
about 3/4 of the way down on the ebay item you linked, there is a needle valve. This just attaches to one of your pipes and as you tighten it down, it pierces the pipe and is self sealing. That item page is a bit confusing. I would make sure thats included.

You can "T" off from your normal supply if you wanted, however, with normal pvc or copper.
 

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As far as plumbing it'll either come with a needle valve or a "T" valve. I went to Lowes and bought a "T" that connected right out of the cold water valve. It was like $2 and the easiest to connect. The drain requires you to drill a hole in your drain line. Again, easy to do and of little consequence. You can also buy a screw on faucet adapter and hang the drain in the sink if you'd like to keep it semi-portable.
 

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Yeow - some of the plumbing configurations I see on these units never ceases to amaze me.
Some recommendations:
steer clear of horizontal DI cartridges
GAC after the DI is a fundamental design goof
Look for a unit that uses all quick connect fittings
Look for a unit with a brand name RO membrane with a specified water temp and pressure needed to meet factory spec'ed output
Look for a unit with a minimum of loose, exposed tubing
Get a unit with an automatic shut off valve only if you need it.
You'll likely wish you had a unit with clear housings
How about a pressure gauge?
 

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No its after that. Look at the picture. It says it is a granulated carbon filter. I dont think I have seen one after the DI before. Has anyone else?
This is just if you are using it for drinking water. 0 TDS water can taste a little bland. The carbon with make it taste more like tap water.

Jay
 

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That's the odd thing about this configuration. DI water isn't typically used, for a number of reasons, for drinking water. If the intent of this system is to produce drinking water, don't use the DI stage at all. Why burn through the capacity of your resin to make drinking water? Systems that are configured properly would use a DI bypass to get drinking water from a RO/DI system.
 
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