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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello

I have been out of the hobby for over 5 years now and I'm looking to get back into it. I had a coupe of 90 gal tanks (one reef and one fish only) in the past. I'm now looking at a 150 to 215 sized tanks. I live in a dry climate and water will evaperate at a high rate which is my first concern on going to big. I'm wonderinf if there's a point where size of tank starts to tip the scale when considering work and cost?

I plan on building this into a wall and wondered if anyone had pictures of how they did there inwalls.

thanks
Lance
 

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Welcome to TRT Lance!

Personally, I think that 90 or 120 gallon tanks are the cutoff for cost. The reason is because these are both 4 ft long tanks, allowing you to use standard 4 ft T5HO lamps, or just 2 metal halide bulbs. There are also plenty of good quality skimmers that will work well with these sizes (ex. octo nw200).
 

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hmmm good question about the evap and cost.
Welcome to TRT!

one thing you can do is look at the cost of having an acrylic tank made. but as far as the evap.. that is sorta up in the air, ( no pun intended). the more water movement the more evap.% , the more exposed, the more heated... question is are you willing to make a top of system to help over the evap.?
 

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hmmm good question about the evap and cost.
Welcome to TRT!

one thing you can do is look at the cost of having an acrylic tank made. but as far as the evap.. that is sorta up in the air, ( no pun intended). the more water movement the more evap.% , the more exposed, the more heated... question is are you willing to make a top of system to help cover the evap.?
 

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I've got the REEF rash!
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:wavey:Welcome to TRT!:wavey: Most people have a container of RO/DI water with a auto top off.Good place for additive too.
 

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Lance look at Hops build and Motorslaves build threads, there are others out there as well
 

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Lance, at the size tank you're considering, I don't think that cost of water is going to be n isue, it is everything else that begins to become an issue, like the size of your skimmer, the lighting, the cost of running more lighting, the cost of bigger pumps and powerheads (price some tunzes) and the electrical costs of running larger circulation pumps, your calcium and alkalinity supplementation method(s), and heating and cooling for larger tanks. This does not consider the mintenance in terms of how much salt mix you'll need for really large systems and the costs of doing water changes and filling the system with live rock.

Some of the costs will be determined not by the size of the tank you run, but by the biotope you seek to emulate and the types of corals you will want to keep. Probably the most expensive biotope to emulate sucessfully and maintain (and to populate with specimens) will be a stony reef-top biotope; the least espensive will be a lagoonal octocoral system. Many seek to have a mixed reef or to keep fishes as the primary goal of the system with corals as a background, so where you end up on setup and maintenance costs will not always be determined by the size of the tank, but moreso based on where you're going with your system.


HTH
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for the info. I'm perusing my local Craigs list for a tank and trying to make a decision on size. On the evaporation end of things I didn't know if tank size multiplies that effect or other factors. If I buy a tank thats 10% larger than tank X will it just use 10% more stuff?


<TABLE class=tborder style="BORDER-TOP-WIDTH: 0px" cellSpacing=1 cellPadding=6 width="100%" align=center border=0><TBODY><TR title="Post 1277282" vAlign=top><TD class=alt2>Welcome to TRT Lance!

Personally, I think that 90 or 120 gallon tanks are the cutoff for cost. The reason is because these are both 4 ft long tanks, allowing you to use standard 4 ft T5HO lamps, or just 2 metal halide bulbs.

There are also plenty of good quality skimmers that will work well with these sizes (ex. octo nw200).
</TD></TR><!-- END TEMPLATE: newreply_reviewbit --><!-- BEGIN TEMPLATE: newreply_reviewbit --><TR><TD class=thead colSpan=2>02-17-2008 09:50 PM</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>


I definantly want a 6 foot tank but your logic makes sense. A 72x28x18 would be great but when I see bigger tanks for the same or similiar price it's very temping. Is the rule in this hobby buy as big as you can because you will get hooked? Some have HOB overflows but I think I want a drilled tank. What's your thoughs on this? My last tank had an overflow but was noisy. Is that the case with all overflows? I'm very excited to get a tank again.

At the moment my plans are a reef tank with hardy easy to care for corals and hardy fish. Any suggestion on livestock would be great.
 

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Perfeshunal Hikk
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Thanks for the info. I'm perusing my local Craigs list for a tank and trying to make a decision on size. On the evaporation end of things I didn't know if tank size multiplies that effect or other factors. If I buy a tank thats 10% larger than tank X will it just use 10% more stuff?
Evaporation has more to do with surface area and heat than volume of water. If the top of a tank is 19x48 (which is what my 75 was and my 90 is), and I always noticed about the same evaporation rate in both. More surface area means more area for it to evaporate. Less surface area means less area for evaporation. There is a trade off though. Less surface area means less oxygenation of the water because less water is in contact with the air for oxygenation to occur.

There is more to evaporation than just that but it still has more to do with surface area than volume of water.

I definantly want a 6 foot tank but your logic makes sense. A 72x28x18 would be great but when I see bigger tanks for the same or similiar price it's very temping. Is the rule in this hobby buy as big as you can because you will get hooked? Some have HOB overflows but I think I want a drilled tank. What's your thoughs on this? My last tank had an overflow but was noisy. Is that the case with all overflows? I'm very excited to get a tank again.
Read up on durso standpipes and "Herbie" stand pipe solutions for noisy overflows.
http://www.thereeftank.com/forums/showpost.php?p=1238787&postcount=14
Is where I found out about a "Herbie" solution to noisy overflows/sumps.


At the moment my plans are a reef tank with hardy easy to care for corals and hardy fish. Any suggestion on livestock would be great.
Good luck with it whichever way you decide to go. As for my personal experience, I wish I could get rid of my 90 and get something larger and I haven't even set it up yet.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
After more measuring I think a 150 is the way to go.

I found this one on Craigs list for $900. What should I expect to pay for a 150? Thanks for all the help.

"I have a 150 Gallon Saltwater fish tank (oak trim) with a wood stand that I am trying to find a new home for. Unfortunately I do not have time to tend to it anymore with my crazy schedule. It is an up and running, well-established tank. It is set up for fish only, but I am sure you can make the changes for a reef tank w/o too much trouble.

SPECS:
In-flow and out-put are built directly into the tank (rare). Amiracle wet-to-dry bio-ball filtration system, Lifegard's quietone submersible pump 780 GPH (model 3000), crushed coral, live sand (90 lbs), rocks (some are live, weight unknown), heater, thermometer, water test kit, water purifiers, un-used salt (50 lbs.), 2 nets, stand has three cabinets with an open back for cords and built-in lighting, top with lights, syphon hose, and trash cans for filling water (if wanted). "
 

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Shop the reef forums for better deals on used equipment. RC and TRT both have used euipment forums, as does reefs.org and the larger metro-area local clubs (Houston, Atlanta, SF, Minneapolis, Chicago, Boston, NYC, Seattle, and I am sure there are similar clubs in California, possibly Colorado (but I do not know these forums off-hand) Look at least once a week at a few forums, you will be surprised at what shows up.
 
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