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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey Buzz,
And anyone else.

Well after cutting 4 different pieces of PVC to go on the exit end of my overflow I have come to a stumbling block. Buzz your idea on drilling the holes does reduce bubbles, but its noisier. Holes under the water line don't do much good...and no holes at all is the quietest...with just the single hole in the bottom.

I think I might make use of all that extra Acrylic I got from work and make a seperate small section as a "bubble" catch prior to entering the skimmer chamber...then another set of baffles before the return.

As it is right not even with alllll these bubbles, none of them are making it to the return pump....I think this is only because its fresh water running through it right now...if it where salt I would probably be sucking up alot of those bubbles and sending them back to the main tank.

Also, here is a question fo any of you "durso" builder/users out there. My water level slowly rises up in the overflow till it gets to the elbow on the durso, when it gets there you hear the air rushing out the exit at the top of the pipe..but as soon as it gets thier it seems to form a syphon and "suck" the water right back down to the level of the durso opening...when this happens you get a really loud Gurgle and you can really tell the water pressure jumps up going into the sump....If I take the cap off of the durso it gets loud (ie the reason for the duros in the first place) but it doesn't fluctuate the way it does with the cap on....Ok so I assumed the hole in the top of my durso was too small....and the water was syphoning down to the durso openning which is supposed to stay submerged...so here was what I did.

I took the air hose fitting off the durso....which left about a 1/4" hold in the top of the stand pipe...you can hear a faint gurgle but not much, the water doesn't fluctuate (stays at a constant level) and the only real sound I hear is that of the water exiting the overflow tube at the bottom.


Ok so for the questions.

1. Is there a down side to running this stand pipe with a 1/4" hole? I figure the old owner must have had a smaller pump on there and that is why he could get away with a little 1/16th hole..?

2. What can I do to quiet the pipe that is submerged, with the prefilter make it any quieter? If not Ill just insulate my doors when I put them on the stand.

3. Is there another way to keep the durso pipe from syphoning the water down to the opening?

Ill see if I can get some pics to explain what I mean...

Dave
 

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ReefDave said:

Ok so for the questions.

1. Is there a down side to running this stand pipe with a 1/4" hole? I figure the old owner must have had a smaller pump on there and that is why he could get away with a little 1/16th hole..?

2. What can I do to quiet the pipe that is submerged, with the prefilter make it any quieter? If not Ill just insulate my doors when I put them on the stand.

3. Is there another way to keep the durso pipe from syphoning the water down to the opening?
I am not an expert by any means so this is just my 2 cents worth.........

1. The only downside to the larger hole would be more noise. I believe you are correct about the previous owner useing a smaller pump. The larger pump, the more water flow, the more air needed.

2. I don't think a prefilter would help. If you are able to install that acrylic and make another chamber i would. I would also make a piece of acrylic to function as a top for this chamber. You can cut a couple of round holes in it just large enough to fit your drain pipes through. That is how i designed my sump and i have no noise from the waterlines draining to the sump at all.

3. I think the only way to keep the durso from doing this is to get the balance between water flow and air ventilation set properly. If it just won't balance there could be a possibility that you are trying to flow to many gph through the size pipe that your durso is made out of. What diameter pipe are you useing and how many gph are you pushing with your pump?

Hope this helps in some way.

If you want to check out Mr. Duso's site, here is a link. You may find some answers there.

http://www.rl180reef.com/pages/standpipe/standpipe.htm
 

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Ughhh.. Dinoflagelettes..
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Yes, you drill a hole through the endcap and into the PVC on the side, then you can twist the endcap to open or close the hole as desired...


The flushing is from not getting enough air into the standpipe
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Reddhaus,
That helps alot actually. I am almost sure I have the GPH balanced with the pipe, as I can run the pump wide open with the cap off the durso and the pipe keeps up. Now, with the 1/4" air hold the pipe ALSO keeps up with the full Mag 1200 running wide open. So I don't think that is an issue. I plugged the hole a little and found that the there really is a balance issue with the air. infact with that air hose fixture the whistle was almost unbarable...all because of water volume.

So now I have the 1/4" that I will probalby use some aquarium calk to make it a bit smaller....just enough that the water volume doesn't change...right now I can barely hear a gurgle, but that might be because of the "boiling water sound" coming from the sump. Keeping in mind that this will have a canopy I can reduce the gurgle from this 1/4" durso hole even more. So im pretty satisfied with the top side of the overflow..

I had not even thought about using all this extra Acrylic for a lid for the sump but its a pretty good idea. can carve holes for pipes, lines and wires.., and if I do it right the "lid" will still be removable.

Is there any worry about ventaltion on this? Won't need light in there because I have a seperate fuge....thinking the lid idea might just work. Most of my evap will be on the top side with 2-250w Iwaskais and a couple 6" fans.........so i don't need to worry about venting the sump so much...

Anyone esle have lids on thier sumps for noise reduction?

Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks buzz...the flushing is cured....your idea on the drill and screw (er....um....check that) your idea on putting a hole on the pipe and covering/uncovering with the cap is a good one....Ill probably do that tomorrow.

Thanks guys
 

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Ughhh.. Dinoflagelettes..
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and having the hole on the side aims the sound into the overflow, not straight up... ;)

Physics and geometry are your friend... :beer:

If you really wanted to be funky, you could use a couple of 90's on the top of the pipe and have the hole on the bottom to aim the sound back towards the bottom of the overflow....
 

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ReefDave said:
your idea on the drill and screw (er....um....check that) your idea on putting a hole on the pipe and covering/uncovering with the cap is a good one
pull the cap off.

Drill a big hole in the side of the slip adapter such that it will be about the middle of the side of the cap when it is replaced.

In the cap, drill several different diameter holes at the same level as the hole in the slip adapter (so that they go from small to big in a horizontal row.

Replace the cap and make sure that the holes on the cap align with the hole you drilled in the slip adapter.

Dial in the correct size hole to get the balance.

I personally prefer using a larger valve tapped into the top of the overflow with a cap threaded on the inlet side that has a hole drilled in it and stuffing the inlet cap with cotton (the threaded cap is ther so you can change the cotton when it gets dirty). This way, you can dial in the ERXACT balance rather than approximating it with the holes.

but then again, that is JMO...:rolleyes:
 

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Buzz_Hog said:
I guess this means I'll have to get Cath to bring her camera over... either that or take a few days to get the film developed...:rolleyes:
 

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Gee, Tom who did you ever get that idea from? :rolleyes: :p ;)

I will take pics of the cap tonight as I made the dursos for Tom with this modification. :)

The reason I came up with the varying hole size in the side of the cap and one very large hole on the side of the stanpipe that lines up with the holes in the cap is that on the original plans for the durso it is recommended to put a certain size hole in the top of the cap. When I did this my tank almost over flowed. So to compensate for the flow rate and the amount of air the stanpipe needed I started drilling holes from the suggested size all the way up to 7/8" putting enough space between the holes in the cap so that the 7/8" hole in stanpipe would not span more than one hole on the cap. Currently I am using the largest hole on the stanpipe. I will post pics tonight to give you a visual reference.

Earl
 

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Also, another key thing with Durso's.. the pipe inside the overflow should be at least 1 size larger than the bulkhead fitting is designed to accept. (Use a reducer fitting to size down..)
 
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