Are you practiced with acrylic work? To get a good seam with weldon 4, you have to have a perfect fit between the sides for a seamless bond. Any gap anywhere and weldon 4 will be insufficient for a water tight seam. Your better bet, especially if aesthetics arent terribly important, is to use weldon 16. It gives you a bit more room for error and you can treat it more like silicone (as opposed to the weldon 4, which is thinner than water).
glue baffles to sump tank (all acrylic)
Hi All,
I bought an old acrylic sump tank and just ordered 4 pieces of baffles cut to fit for 3 compartments (return/skimmer/refugium). I also ordered weld-on #4 to glue to baffles to to sump. But now not sure how to proceed to install/glue these baffles in correctly so it would be nice and neat without leaks. Anyone has any suggestions or comments on how to proceed this?
Thanks in advance,
Daniel
I bought an old acrylic sump tank and just ordered 4 pieces of baffles cut to fit for 3 compartments (return/skimmer/refugium). I also ordered weld-on #4 to glue to baffles to to sump. But now not sure how to proceed to install/glue these baffles in correctly so it would be nice and neat without leaks. Anyone has any suggestions or comments on how to proceed this?
Thanks in advance,
Daniel
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
+1 w/ CRVZ... Lexan silicone will also bond acrylic and is easier to use than weldon for someone on their first acrylic project. You could use the 16 to get things hammered into place and then add the lexan silicone like you would a glass baffle to really seal up the baffles.
Is Lexan Silicone a special product, I am not familiar with it.+1 w/ CRVZ... Lexan silicone will also bond acrylic and is easier to use than weldon for someone on their first acrylic project. You could use the 16 to get things hammered into place and then add the lexan silicone like you would a glass baffle to really seal up the baffles.
I have put acrylic or plexi baffles in glass tanks, cutting them pretty close fit and using severl dabs of superglue to locate them, then using a generous seam of silicone on each side. Keep in mind that baffles in a sump have fairly equal water pressure on both sides, so they are not really load bearing per se. That technique wont work to say glue an acrylic panel on a tank in place of glass
Hop,
I already ordered weld-on #4 so can I use it then also apply Lexan silicone afterward? ANd where can I find Lexan silicone ?
Thanks all so much for your suggestions.
Daniel
I already ordered weld-on #4 so can I use it then also apply Lexan silicone afterward? ANd where can I find Lexan silicone ?
Thanks all so much for your suggestions.
Daniel
Doug, its just a brand of silicone that is *supposed* to bond acrylic together. I have seen it at HD and Lowes but never tried it. Not sure if its reef safe. If it will bond to acrylic, it has to have something in it to help adhere and not sure if that is reef safe or not.
Daniel, get some PVC cement. Use WO#4 and PVC Cement in a 50/50 ratio and you get a DIY WO#16.
Get some strips to glue to the sides of your sump that "locate" the baffles. Glue them to the sides, then glue your baffles to the strips. It gives you a different surface to glue to and keeps you from having to have exact fits on the baffles. You can go behind the gluing and add more WO to the joints or even silicone if youd like.
Daniel, get some PVC cement. Use WO#4 and PVC Cement in a 50/50 ratio and you get a DIY WO#16.
Get some strips to glue to the sides of your sump that "locate" the baffles. Glue them to the sides, then glue your baffles to the strips. It gives you a different surface to glue to and keeps you from having to have exact fits on the baffles. You can go behind the gluing and add more WO to the joints or even silicone if youd like.
Randy,
PVC Cement is an aquarium safe product right? Your solution sounded like and easy workaround.
Thanks,
Daniel
PVC Cement is an aquarium safe product right? Your solution sounded like and easy workaround.
Thanks,
Daniel
Yup, it's good stuff. I used it to bond my acrylic baffles in the glass sump. Worked like a dream... You just have to use more than you think and make a wider bead than you would on a glass sump.Is Lexan Silicone a special product, I am not familiar with it.
I have put acrylic or plexi baffles in glass tanks, cutting them pretty close fit and using severl dabs of superglue to locate them, then using a generous seam of silicone on each side. Keep in mind that baffles in a sump have fairly equal water pressure on both sides, so they are not really load bearing per se. That technique wont work to say glue an acrylic panel on a tank in place of glass
You can get it at lowes and yes you can use it afterward. Weldon #4 for a first time use is going to drive you mad... I think water is thicker!Hop,
I already ordered weld-on #4 so can I use it then also apply Lexan silicone afterward? ANd where can I find Lexan silicone ?
Thanks all so much for your suggestions.
Daniel
Although when I read this there seems to be an air of cynicism pointed at me, but I'm hoping that is not what was intended...Doug, its just a brand of silicone that is *supposed* to bond acrylic together. I have seen it at HD and Lowes but never tried it. Not sure if its reef safe. If it will bond to acrylic, it has to have something in it to help adhere and not sure if that is reef safe or not.
Daniel, get some PVC cement. Use WO#4 and PVC Cement in a 50/50 ratio and you get a DIY WO#16.
Get some strips to glue to the sides of your sump that "locate" the baffles. Glue them to the sides, then glue your baffles to the strips. It gives you a different surface to glue to and keeps you from having to have exact fits on the baffles. You can go behind the gluing and add more WO to the joints or even silicone if youd like.
It is reef safe and it works well. I used it on mine as I posted above. I also seamed up my fuge with it.
Oh and lexan cures in 24 hours and is ready for SW...
No cynicism at all Hop. I have seen Lexan silicone but have never used it so I don't know if it is reef safe or not.
Sounds good! Just wanted to ensure everyone knew that I would never recommend something that was on the edge or that I knew would cause problems
I learned about Weldon #4 very quickly. :funny: Luckily I had purchased 16 as well and could use that to try to fix the mistakes and missed seams I had with the watery #4. :doh:
Guys,
OK. Since I have paid 30 bucks for the Weld-on #4 I will try to use it and will also buy extra lexan silicone to seal it afterward.
Thanks all for suggestions/helps.
Daniel
OK. Since I have paid 30 bucks for the Weld-on #4 I will try to use it and will also buy extra lexan silicone to seal it afterward.
Thanks all for suggestions/helps.
Daniel
Locate your baffle plates with some non stick blue painters tape then use the needle pplicator to slowly squirt it under the bottom ll down that seem. It draws in via cappilary action. Give it time to set, then lay sump on side and do each vertical seam while it's horizontal. That should give you a nice consistant seem if you have a close fit.Guys,
OK. Since I have paid 30 bucks for the Weld-on #4 I will try to use it and will also buy extra lexan silicone to seal it afterward.
Thanks all for suggestions/helps.
Daniel
You can always seam it with silicone after to ensure a good leakproof seal
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
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