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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all -

Back history is that I've tried and failed with a BTA, probably too early, but everything had been going really well with everything else and I got cocky.

There are a million things I've tried to figure out about why it didn't make it. My lighting was fine, my parameters for N and P are always zero (but I have algae so I know there are some but they must get sucked out of the water pretty quick).

Possible issues and how I'm have or am resolving them are that:
- I fed it too soon and the shrimp (had been frozen) might not have come to temperature enough - not that stupid this time around. No food for a month or so (other than what it catches on it's own).
- The salinity might have varied some because I didn't have an ATO so I would add two gallons of RODI once a day to the sump (75 gal DT). I'm installing an ATO this weekend which will deliver kalk 1/2 saturated with c dosing vinegar.
- The flow might have been too high (it has since toned down). I'm also replacing my pumps soon.
- The yellow fiji might have been dumping turps in the system (I'm now running carbon).
- The maroon clown (2 inches now) pestered the crap out of it. - don't know how to manage that one?!?! Any suggestions?
- the pH was running 7.8-8. It is at 8.2-8.4 since I've been topping off with kalk.

In June the tank will be one year post initial cycle and I would love to be able to try an anemone again (prefer the green bubble tip). My question is what, if anything else can I do to get ready by June? Thanks in advance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
What size tank?
What lights do you have?
What are your actual water parameters -- with numbers please. Include salinity/SG and how you measure it.
What flow did you have?
75 Gallon DT, 20G Sump
five bulb, 48" T5HO 1pur actinic, 2 blue + and two daylights
P=0, N,N,& A=0, Salinity 1.25, Ca+500, pH 8.2, temp 78, dKH 7 (at the time, I haven't tested really recently but I'm not far off that). I use API. Refractometer for salinity.
Flow was alternating 2600 gph for 7 seconds and 30% of that on alternating seconds. 900 gph return pump to spray bar (guessing about 400 gph with head and back pressure)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yes, and yes.
 

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Than the only issue I could see would be the maroon -- if the anemone you get is on the small side, the clown could love it to death. Would want to make sure that they anemone is 3 times as large as the maroon. Be prepared to intervene if the clown harasses it too much.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Any suggestions on how to tone down an amorous clown?

I'll start with looking for a large, healthy (mouth closed, good color) specimen about 6" across.

Would it be cruel to keep the clown in a specimen container (inside the tank) for a week? (my sump is full of live rock).

Is a week enough for the BTA to get settled enough to tolerate the pestering?
 

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No, it wouldn't be cruel -- I have kept dwarf angels in acclimation boxes for 7 days while getting used to the existing ones.

Nothing you can really do to calm down a maroon clowns, just try to get the biggest anemone possible -- after time the clown should be less "excited" about the anemone.

A week should get the anemone some time to settle in, but just keep an eye on it, and intervene if needed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
bump on this for another reason -

I'm looking at removing my ornamental sand bed. Is there any reason I should wait to get an anemone until after this and if so (based on the reason) how long (i.e., what should I measure) to see that it is safe?
 
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