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Hydro-Dynamic
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13,149 Posts
Cooter that looks really nice and I love the hangers.
How difficult is it to remove and say take a bottle brush to?
I have a bottle brush from the 40's or 50's that's about 25-30" long
great for such endeavors. Yous is a bit shorter than Garys.

According to the 3/4" installation video in the link Gary provided,
the 3/4" adapter is simply threaded onto the body/union location
and adapter should be able to work of any size in between.
Really though, with only 350 gph running through the drains combined,
there's no reason to upsize the inlet/outlet, unless he upgrades the return pump. 3/4" will handle the 350 GPH currently passing through the system.
 

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NorthernIndianaReefer
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825 Posts
Discussion Starter · #182 ·
You mentioned a second pump or PH to drive the UV :trophy-gold:
This sounds a lot easier, and more controllable.
Another idea is the multi task the return pump, but if you're
running it wide open at <500gph, that won't cut it, and a larger return pump
would be needed.
OK seeing the pics before I post, on the back of the stand is hopefully
accessible for maintenance. DO NOT touch the lamp. If you have
you might want to rub some alcohol on it with a cotton swab.

I would try and match a Mag pump to the skimmers processing rate.
A Mag 5 is only $2 more than a 3. Using a valved union you can adjust
the flow, and use as a quick disconnect as well. Youmight even have
enough flow left to add a GFO reactor from the Mag5, not sure but the lower
to the sump and pump, the more flow you'll have.
Wow thanks so much Paul. I think that this option is the winner. I have an extra adjustable pump laying around that is rated for 750 Gph. I'm thinking I'd rather use PVC rather than hose, It just looks better to me. The pump i have is 55 Watts, and it has a threaded 3/4" output :dance:.


I just redid mine but bought a new UV body from Aqua that had 2 inch inlet outlet setup so I could plumb it in the drains. Took the two 1 inch drains to a two inch tee. Would you be able to exchange yours for the same 40 watt model with 2 inch fitting instead of the 3/4s? I always had a pump running my Aqua UV because it had the same 3/4 inch fittings. Happy I put it in the drains and have one less pump using energy. Might be worth it to switch it out before you use it.
The problem is that I bought the UV used. I don't mind running an extra pump, it will give me a little more flexibility with flow. Yours looks really clean great job.

Cooter that looks really nice and I love the hangers.
How difficult is it to remove and say take a bottle brush to?
I have a bottle brush from the 40's or 50's that's about 25-30" long
great for such endeavors. Yous is a bit shorter than Garys.

According to the 3/4" installation video in the link Gary provided,
the 3/4" adapter is simply threaded onto the body/union location
and adapter should be able to work of any size in between.
Really though, with only 350 gph running through the drains combined,
there's no reason to upsize the inlet/outlet, unless he upgrades the return pump. 3/4" will handle the 350 GPH currently passing through the system.
Yeah, On mine I'm pretty sure the guy glued the adapter in......:doh: So i cant take them out even if I wanted to, I took a pipe wrench to it and was scared of breaking something so I stopped. But I think 3/4" will work just fine with me using a pump. Leaning more towards the vertical position more than the horizontal. are there any dangers/downsides to have it vertical?
 

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NorthernIndianaReefer
Joined
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825 Posts
Discussion Starter · #183 ·
I just made blender mush last week for the first time. I bet it will last me 1 month. I am not looking forward to doing it again. Oysters have a very unique smell to them... ugh!
I made quite a bit I'm shooting for at least 3MO. May go back to Rod's food after that though. Yeah after cracking open the oysters I almost gagged at the thought of someone slurping it down. :barf:
 

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Hydro-Dynamic
Joined
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13,149 Posts
Wow thanks so much Paul...are there any dangers/downsides to have it vertical?
No problem. Vertical would have best coverage fed from the bottom
with no trickle or gurgle sound. I did a 36W on my 40B and fed it from
the top, and that was a mistake. It trickled noise and I'm positive
the lamp was exposed to more air since you could hear the flow
and made it less effective.

PVC is great and since your pump is a little over rated, makes it even more
attractive. The pump can overcome resistance and reach the skimmers
processing rate. Just plumb the outlet to come rather close to the skimmers inlet.
Some distance to allow free draw/suction for the skimmers pump.
I would be afraid to plumb directly into the skimmer.
The reason to get the skimmer drawing in the discharge of the UV
is to remove any dead organisms, including bacteria, before they can
be returned to the tank.
 

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Registered
Joined
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789 Posts
Cooter that looks really nice and I love the hangers.
How difficult is it to remove and say take a bottle brush to?
I have a bottle brush from the 40's or 50's that's about 25-30" long
great for such endeavors. Yous is a bit shorter than Garys.

According to the 3/4" installation video in the link Gary provided,
the 3/4" adapter is simply threaded onto the body/union location
and adapter should be able to work of any size in between.
Really though, with only 350 gph running through the drains combined,
there's no reason to upsize the inlet/outlet, unless he upgrades the return pump. 3/4" will handle the 350 GPH currently passing through the system.
I put a few unions in so it is not horrible to take apart. Only bad part is it is filled with water so it could be a mess. Did that to insure that the light is always submerged in water. Mine is only the 25 watt model. Plus when I ordered the new body with 2 inch fittings it has a wiper bar built in. It is that black ball on the left in the pic. Pulls out and back in to clean the quartz tube. Not that I want to admit it but I also tried to remove the 3/4 fitting. I snapped the whole Tee! Katnik do not try to remove that is not screwed in but glued in. Costs $75 for a new body from Aqua.


Katnik when you do mount it make it so the water has to be filled inside the tube before it exits. Also I had run both a Rio 2500 and Rio 3100 through mine with no problem. Here is a flow chart from Aqua to help you.

 

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Hydro-Dynamic
Joined
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13,149 Posts
besides that, horizontally will increase the possible GPH available
if mounted with inlet/outlet right at the top of the sump.
Your unit is pretty long or tall I should say, and will lose head
but your pump sounds capable. What pump is it?

And just getting caught up, sort of, I'm missing one key piece to your setup.
The Reeflo pump you rebuilt and the sump you made. Are you still using
the Reeflo and only getting 350 GPH? Great looking 50g sump BTW, great job :D
 

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Hydro-Dynamic
Joined
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13,149 Posts
A couple options to get water to and from and use the valved unions
for quick disconnects for servicing (keeps the water in the line
or in the unit, your choice) pictured below using a couple options here…
http://www.marinedepot.com/Elbow_Fi...ttings-Plumbing_Parts-FT5733-FIFTFIEB-vi.html

http://www.marinedepot.com/Elbow_Fi...ttings-Plumbing_Parts-FT5333-FIFTFIEB-vi.html
^ either of these will work with the union below which is either threaded or slip
or both at your choice.

To get a straight shot into the unit and elbows where needed…
http://www.marinedepot.com/Male_Ada...ttings-Plumbing_Parts-FT4933-FIFTFIAF-vi.html
putting the union directly into the UV unit


http://www.marinedepot.com/Slip_Dou...Valves-Plumbing_Parts-FT3913-FIFTVLTU-vi.html
Got any of that Ultra Flex left?
You'll need 2 of the double valved unions. Lowes carries them too
but not always at every store in either slip or threaded.
 

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NorthernIndianaReefer
Joined
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825 Posts
Discussion Starter · #188 ·
besides that, horizontally will increase the possible GPH available
if mounted with inlet/outlet right at the top of the sump.
Your unit is pretty long or tall I should say, and will lose head
but your pump sounds capable. What pump is it? It's just a cheaper hydor L40. http://www.marinedepot.com/Hydor_Ce...ps-Hydor_USA-HD12127-FIWPSBUF-HD10141-vi.html

And just getting caught up, sort of, I'm missing one key piece to your setup.
The Reeflo pump you rebuilt and the sump you made. Are you still using
the Reeflo and only getting 350 GPH? Sorry, I meant to tell you this earlier when you asked. I have the reeflo still I have it valved off a TON I don't want alot of flow through the sump, It makes my overflow super noisy. The reeflo is a beast I bet full throttle it would do well over 1,000 gph even with all that head loss
Great looking 50g sump BTW, great job :D Thanks!
Thanks Cooter for the chart. I'm glad I didn't keep torquing on the adapter.:funny: Thanks for all your union ideas Paul, I had already bought regular unions and glued everything before I saw this post though. I decided to actually put it horizontal, It fit much better. I had a problem with the "EZ twist" fitting leaking. Ugh I took the thing apart and put it back together 3 times before it didn't leak. (added teflon tape)

Okay, so here are some pics!





Pic showing the outlet close to the skimmer Inlet.


http://www.thereeftank.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=118590&stc=1&d=1431396057
 

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Hydro-Dynamic
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13,149 Posts
hmm, well, I was hoping you could keep the unit above water.
Right now you'll have to lift the whole contraption including pump
and all plumbing above the water line as you have a full siphon going.
The weight associated with this is going to put undue stress on something.
Now you have 360º in and 360 out with no quick release method :lol:
Is there any way you can get the skimmers intake real close, but leave a small gap?
The exit is pointing down and will disburse water 360º across the bottom.
As much as you have it valved down, what's another elbow going to hurt?

To lift the unit when you do, grasp outside each of your unions and lift vertically
whenever you have to remove it for maintenance.
 

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NorthernIndianaReefer
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825 Posts
Discussion Starter · #190 ·
hmm, well, I was hoping you could keep the unit above water.
Right now you'll have to lift the whole contraption including pump
and all plumbing above the water line as you have a full siphon going.
The weight associated with this is going to put undue stress on something.
Now you have 360º in and 360 out with no quick release method :lol:
Is there any way you can get the skimmers intake real close, but leave a small gap?
The exit is pointing down and will disburse water 360º across the bottom.
As much as you have it valved down, what's another elbow going to hurt?

To lift the unit when you do, grasp outside each of your unions and lift vertically
whenever you have to remove it for maintenance.
There's a union on the vertical pipe going from the pump. The whole UV is supported by the wood bracket that it's sitting on. There isn't any stress on the plumbing. Yeah I can get the skimmer intake even closer, I just didn't know if too close would make the flow of the skimmer inconsistent. Yeah I can always add another 90. :D. I have removed it 3 times because of the "ez fitting" was leaking, it wasn't horrible but no doubt it would have been easier if it was above the water line.
 

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Hydro-Dynamic
Joined
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13,149 Posts
I mean the stress on the plumbing at the elbows entering the unit
when you go to remove it from the back at maintenance time.
Just be sure to support and grip it there when you lift it.

At top of sump would also delete half of the elbows.
 

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Hydro-Dynamic
Joined
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13,149 Posts
Which side leaked? The pump side is not supported save for the pump itself.
I think, the return side is actually resting on the top of the sump?
If so that's good, if not, the union is tweaked with some stress.
Also, if you don't have it, get a small tub of silicone grease from the plumbing isle.
It is what we use on O-rings to preserve them and helps make the seal water tight.
 

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NorthernIndianaReefer
Joined
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825 Posts
Discussion Starter · #193 ·
It's the "ez twist cap" on the chart that Cooter posted that was leaking. There is no o-ring. I can only see that I could get rid of 2 90s, by going straight up from the unit. I may do that sometime.

Everything seems to be doing a lot better after getting rid of those dang red bugs. Spotted some aptasia must have been carried over from a newly added fish. Trying to stay on top of it, as it's spreading fast.
 

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NorthernIndianaReefer
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825 Posts
Discussion Starter · #195 ·
Hey all! I just went down a rabbit hole of reminiscent posts; really makes me want to start a tank again in the future, but for now I should start selling equipment I have been hoarding XD. We are in the process of moving so i'd rather someone get some use out of this stuff rather than me just moving it to sit in a closet.

I'll just post stuff here every now and then, just let me know if you are interested and i'll give you a great deal!

First up,

I have two Evergrow IT-2080 LED (31" length) - make an offer or let me know if anyone is interested!!
 

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Shark..but a friendly one
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16,599 Posts
This place is full of rabbit holes....watch yer step! 1 minute conversations can last 1/2 the night...
Hack
 

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NorthernIndianaReefer
Joined
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825 Posts
Discussion Starter · #197 ·
haha true that!

Anyone want a GEO calcium reactor or 40w aqua UV sterilizer?
 

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NorthernIndianaReefer
Joined
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825 Posts
Discussion Starter · #199 ·
how does $100 sound? Shipping might be $10-12
 
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