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Summer and Alyssa's Daddy
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2,679 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have received some of their garf grunge (a couple of us bought a couple of lbs and split it) and it was a very good activator. I even had a shroom sprout from it.
I am not crazy about garf rock but I made some and use it in my sumps and refugiums and it seems okay to use if not ugly as sin.
So I have been reading their BulletProof Tanks and they recommend a plenium system and starting out with lower light and increasing to VHOs.
I already know that I prefer Metal Halides with vhos and/or pc lighting only for morning and evening effects.
My question is, and i may just start to log it. Has anyone built a tank like their bulletproof calculators suggest? I mean with the same additives. Because I sure don't add as much as they do, just drip Kalk.
I am debating on trying one of their setups with a 29 gal tank. Just to see how well it works. And I mean with the lights, additives and "gasp" a plenum.
That and I am curious about their "Frag" Packs. 10 frags for 100 bucks sounds pretty good to me.
Ray
 

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TRT Staff The Mominator
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10,503 Posts
Hi Ray;

Many people have tried the Bullet Proof system, some have even gone so far as to set it up as a test against a system set up a different way and then compare the two at set time-frames. I can remember several posts about it on RC and RDO.

"The Bullet Proof" tank will work, but my question has always been-why start out with NO lighting? I don't see the point. If you know you want VHO and MH down the line, set yourself up for it from the get-go and start with VHO. There aren't many corals that can't handle VHO lighting so save yourself a step.

There's nothing wrong with a plenum if it's set up correctly and you understand its function and its pros and cons. I had one on my first tank and it ran pretty well.

Garfs frags are small-I mean *tiny*; I ordered the package deal for my first nano and even in the nano the frags looked tiny, lol. They were all in good shape though, but if it were me, I'd look for corals elsewhere.

Garf has some great info on their site, if you can find it, the website is still a horror-but they also have some that you need to take with a grain of salt.

Alice
 

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206 Posts
I am a big believer in the Bullet Proof Reef System. I can't tell you how much help LeRoy was when I first started out.

But, both LeRoy and Sally Jo are very milltant about the system they created. I stopped emailing them after every idea I had to alter their system was shot down. I have and really like hex tanks. They don't like and don't believe a hex tank will work as a reef tank. I've had my first hex tank up for over two years now with few problems.

As far as their "recipe" for dosing goes, I still follow it to this day. I know I could drip kalk for a lot less money but I believe that if it ain't broke don't fix it.

As for Agrocrete, I have been making rocks for some time now and I can tell you that it's hard to tell the difference between say Fiji live rock and my Agrocrete after about six months in an established tank.

Their corals are small, but they are very healthy and will grow very fast in good conditions.

Bottom line is, if you follow their system to the letter, it will work. But if you don't, you still have a successful tank.

Just my opinion.:p
 

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Summer and Alyssa's Daddy
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2,679 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
That is what I am curiious about. I am thinking that their flow requirements are a wee bit low. ( I prefer higher flow than what their calculators are punching out. ) and I prefer MH, verses NO or even VHOs. However While breaking in a tank, I don't see the point in using MH from the start but not so far as to go to NO lights.

Like I said, the only way I got garf rock to look well is to use pure white aragonite but I still found it very heavy.
I am thinking of trying to set up a 75 gal with this method and see how well it works. but I am gonna go with a bigger skimmer.

Ray
Ray
 

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Master of Perplexity
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3,451 Posts
I just recently received an order from GARF, and while they aren't gigantic, they are relatively cheap, assuming you squeeze them for every deal they offer. I've complained about the poor quality of the lfs's around here anyway, and I found their frags are much better quality, and reasonably priced. For instance, I got 22 different species for $100 dollars (that's if you count the xenia hitchhikers) and free phyto and rotifers. Their website is kinda difficult to navigate, but they remind me of my 70's hippie existence. If I knew then what I know now, I'd be doing something very similar.
 

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Premium Member
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7,889 Posts
Spanky said:
Maybe it's just to give people something to do while they wait on their rocks to properly cure.
:funny: :funny: :funny:

I made some aragcrete frag plugs and it took about 4 months for them to completely cure.
 

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Administrator
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47,624 Posts
I made a lot using oyster shell as filler, its heavier but still porous enuff that water will pour through it . Ugly stuff till it gets coralline on it and yes base rock sized rocks take about 4 months to cure out.
 

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About the Bullet Proof tanks, I follow it and I will swear by it. After following their set up to the letter except for the plenum, I have seen drastic improvement on my tanks, a 125 and 55.

Their corals...yeah they are pretty tiny but when your getting 10 for 100.00 bucks, what are you really expecting? Yes they are shipped very well, better than other shippers I have used. They are excetionally healthy and will take off in a tank once settled in. At least my success has been good.

GARF Grunge....That stuff is the bomb! I use it in my 55 which mainly grows plants for my tang and to seed home made rock! That rock looks awesome after about 3 months! I run @ 20 lbs in my refugium/sump for my 125 tank.

I have some pretty good coralline growth on all of my rock. The best growth came after I started using some NO lighting at night after the Halides and VHO's were off.

Does the Bullet Proof system work? Look at some of GARF's tanks. Then ask yourself that question again. There is more than one way to get from point A to Point B, But with all of the great tanks GARF has, its hard to argue with their success.

I agree with Doug1. Most of the rock I have made is with crushed oyster shell and with type II Portland cement. Big chunks take what seems like forever to leach all the alkalie out of them. A better idea is to make your rock with lots of caves, tunnels etc as they cure a hell of a lot quicker, look much better and provide much more surface area for coralline growth. I have made a ton of "Tonga Branch" shaped pieces as well. The 40 lbs of live rock rubble in my refugium was made from this and empty egg cartons. Used the same egg cartons to make reef plugs too. They do look pretty hidious until coralline algae covers them at which point you'd never know it was made a few months ago. The best thing about this home made rock, it cost me 10 cents a pound! How much does some cheap budget Fiji cost? If anyone out there has a better idea, I wanna hear it. I am in the military and I dont have long arms and deep pockets if you know what I mean.

Why start out with NO lighting? Well you dont have to. It does make sense to go with halides from the start if thats were you will eventually be. But when you set up a tank, unless you have "Big Stupid Dollars" to dump into it from the get go, the tank, filtration, live rock and live sand cant set you back a good bit! So when your first starting up, you normally wouldnt have a ton of exotic SPS croals and Clams. At that point you are only cycling the tank and getting coralline algae going. NO lighting is perfect for this. My 2 twin tube No light fixtures on my 55 cost me a whole $8.00 each from Ace hardware. It took care of my tank just fine until I was ready to do SPS corals and take the next step. From a starting stand point, I see no foul. Why waste all that electricity on halides the first month or two anyways...its not really needed?

Just my 2 cents for what its worth, if anything?
 

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Bring it.
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932 Posts
I have bought two 10-$100 frag packs and am happy with them both. They are tiny but in excellent shape. As far as getting coraline algae to grow increase your photoperiod before introducng corals. My refugium lights are run 24/7 with a low wattage power compact and it is covered in coralline but my main tank with a standard photoperiod and intense 400 watt metal halides and vho have very little coverage.
 
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