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Aquatic Philosopher
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK, I have been holding off on this because it was backordered but...

My new LED kit will be shipping today :dance:

Ok, I ordered a 24 LED solderless kit from rapidLED along with a 6x20 heatsink. This will hopefully replace my 175MH and with the high summer temps coming on, reduce the cooling needs of my AC.

Right now, the LED are 12 blue, 10 cool white, and two neutral white. I like more whitish color than blue so I think this would work. If not I will just swap out the LED later. I will be using 60 degree optics and the LED will hang about 2 feet above the aquarium at the moment. They we not be dimmed, rather I will stagger the timing with my controller. Plus the 4-6 hours of afternoon sun from the south will make things a bit more constant too.

I just thought I would go ahead and kick-start the build thread. :lol:
 

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Yay! Tag! Your it!
 

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I have been thinking of a similar kit but the dimmable solder version with 80* lenses for my 37G (30x12x22) tank. What size tank are you putting this on?
 

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Toyotaholic
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6,700 Posts
^I believe he is putting them on a 40B!

Welcome to the club Doc! I was wondering how much longer you were going to hold out! When I ditched my two 150 W halides, my kitchen/house cooled off significantly. I also save about $15 a month in electricity between the bulbs and fan I had to run to keep the tank cool! Looking forward to this build.

I tend to favor a more blue look, around 12-15k. I wish I would have gone 2-1 blues to white on my build. I have my whites dimmed as far as I can yet still keep them running. When I add 24 more led's to my heatsinks for my 90 upgrade, they will be all royal blue/blue. No more whites for me!
 

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Aquatic Philosopher
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yep it is going on the 40B. The nano might be next if I like them :lol: I waited until AFTER I graduated to start up a "build"... did not need the distraction. The down side is that I am expecting a few more days of 90+ degrees in DC while the light is currently in Richmond Ca... so much waiting.

Haha, I actually like the 65k look. I like the bright white-yellow look of mid-day sun. With the staggered schedule, it will be mostly blue for most of the photoperiod with the whites on for a much shorter time.

I am also only using 24 LEDs on the 6x20 heatsink with a capacity for a total of 36 LED so I can add more blue if I want. While I went non-dimmable, I figured I could upgrade the drivers later but oh well. And since I owned an AI SOL (Blue) back in the day (yeah, how many folks can say that) I can compare the pre-fab standard against the DIY (sans soldering).
 

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Aquatic Philosopher
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
sounds good Doc!

I'm adding LEDs to my 40g breeder, I went with 9 blue, and 9 white...

they will not replace my MH but will run all day and the MH only 3 hours or something...
I thought about that... but decided that I will use a whiter mix of LEDs for the "3 hours" of additional peak lighting.

I also went with the bigger heat-sink so that I can sink additional heat. Each LED will have about 5 square inches of surface space worth of heat-sink... the 6"x9" with 24 LED would offer only 2.25... so I have more than double. Sorry... I am quick&dirty engineering it. :lol:

I think I will run 8 blues, and 4 cool whites for the main 6-7 hours of normal lighting for my own "viewing" while running 4 blues, 6 cool whites and 2 neutral whites for the peak lighting.

I also get a fair amount of natural sunlight between about 2pm-6pm from Feb to about the end of October.
 

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Doc Holiday
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I'm just wondering why single LEDs instead one led? I seem to have better results in my daughters tank with the single led chip than when I did the Cree 3w LEDs..
 

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Following :) This should be cool. Ive really been thinking about LEDs for my tank. I dont want to come off the money it would cost for ecotech or AI so...DIY has appeal to me. I like that you found some that are solderless as that was my biggest opstical.
 

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I will be following along, I am bulding the same exact same thing that you got from RAPIDLED, I hope I receive it soon. Do you think those 24 solderless wil be enough for that 6x20 heatsink? I am thinking it might fit like this

*______*______*______*
*___*_*__*_*__*___*__*
*___*_*__*_*__*___*__*
*______*_______*_____*
 

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Aquatic Philosopher
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15,434 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I will post some concepts of the lighting distribution in a bit. I have pages of drawings :lol:

I also bought some extending wire connectors so the LED can be placed further from the terminal.

Should I be concerned at potentially overdriving the 1000mA LED at 1050mA? I figured the 5% overage with a limited photoperiod (3h) will not overly stress the 4 or so blue LED that will be firing with the whites. I figured the heat will be adequately dispersed as well. THoughts
 

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Doc Holiday
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I asked the question about LEDs because I know you take the time to study, breakdown, analize, and truly make a great educated decision when you do things..
 

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Aquatic Philosopher
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
sorry, saltlife, missed that one

As far as many LED vs a single LED, I personally would prefer a single LED if one existed but even the single "LED" are multi-chip LEDs. So in reality, they are many LED just crammed together. I guess the LED are small due to their relationships with super conductors.

As for the commercially available LED that are a single source, I do not care for them as much as the other makes. Not are they expensive but unless it is for a deep tank, the smaller LED arrays are fine for penetrating most hobbyist tanks. The other issue is that LED, have a hard time both getting the spread and focus correct. Multi-LED designs get better spread while also using a narrow-er lens that will focus enough light when needed. Finally, sometimes they false-label their product so those "150w" LED are really a 27 watt multi-chip but claim to be the 150w equivalent... or so I think. For the many-led design, the lower cost of singe chip LED and CREE being fairly good at producing PAR.

Plus, 36 inch tanks are tough to light with a single source.
 

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Doc Holiday
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I understand.. I used rapid LEDs premium dimmable kit and it was nice but coral growth was supper slow and coral color really changed.. It could have been the spectrum.. Who knows??? I switched to the kessil a150w 15k and color started to change back.. Growth is still slow.. Not sure if it is as slow but it probably is.. Mh are still a faster growing and coloring up light by far.. On my main tank the 100w cannon deff helps with growth... Looking forward to your build and imput..

Last but not least after the brief chat about the bubble king I bought a bubble magus 180 and switched the pump out to a tunze hydrofoamer 9420 and it out skims my bubble king.. I wanted to use a bubble blaster but they don't have one that will fit the bubble magus due to the side port.. Thanks for the bit of info:)
 

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far as i know over running your leds will shorten the life of them , Heat is the killer of leds . i ordered a 120 led light kit for my 125 running two dimmable drivers with a 50 50 mix of royals and 10k awsome
 

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Aquatic Philosopher
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15,434 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
FlaReefDreamer: I am decent at building a lit of things, but electrical engineering is one thing that I lack "expertise". I know the basics about not killing myself but I an far from a qualified electrician. I would not pay for a FutureDoc built fixture :lol:

Gunner: Yeah, that is why I am running a shorter photoperiod on a oversized heat-sink. We will see, if there is a problem, I will order a different driver and a few replacement LEDs. That is one of the few benefits of the multi-LED arrays
 

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Premium Member
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Should I be concerned at potentially overdriving the 1000mA LED at 1050mA? I figured the 5% overage with a limited photoperiod (3h) will not overly stress the 4 or so blue LED that will be firing with the whites. I figured the heat will be adequately dispersed as well. THoughts
I would say drive them all at 1000mA first, you don't want to fry the new LEDs, it only takes a nano second to fry one... :mad:
 
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